# Selleys All Clear - BIG DOLLOPS!!



## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Whats the cure time approx on a big dollop for my Transducer do you reckon......... I set it last night and its till gooey to push but not tacky to touch ???


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## Jeprox (Apr 6, 2007)

I hope you're a VERY patient man. Prepare for the Second Coming before it goes off completely, however the results will far exceed your expectations. That stuff is the duck's guts. Not had a problem with the Lowrance since abandoning the Sikaflex. If you jam the transducer down with a piece of pool noodle, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to use it while it's curing, worked for me.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

HEy Jeprox

but how much time do you think ?????/ I cant do the pool noodle as I have a casing of sorts over the trans to protect it from taking a hit from my foled trolley in the hold...


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## waldo (Aug 19, 2007)

most of the silicone sealants take 7 days to go off. In your case ( big dollop ) anything up to 14 days. Itll probably be firm enough after 3-4 days if your careful with it.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Sheeeeeet - I'm not carefull !!!!


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## Jeprox (Apr 6, 2007)

Worth the inconvenience for the result I'm thinking.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Hey ole Lazybugger - generally my YAk lives on the car !!!!! So do you think it needs to cure for the 14 days ??? Or do you think its never going to stay on if its strapped upside down to my roof? 14 days or not ?


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

***, I went radical on mine in the Swing November 2006, and you could do anything with this setup if you are game to drill 2 holes though the yak bottom :lol:

The pics show white sikaflex, but 6 months later I peeled it away and replaced with All Clear [under trannie only, bolts are original sikaflex] and hasn't looked like failing with the clamp, the yak lived in the sun for at least 8-9 months after doing this

And for all the doom sayers *it doesn't bloody leak*

7 days is ample to cure All Clear I reckon


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Thanks Dodge for the advice - I like the 7 days cure bit - I'm not sure on the drilloectomy on the yak though for mine just yet. I actually did an awesome original install - but I put a bubble in the the goo - so never got a good sounding !!! If this fails once its cured then I'll go back to the old way - I listened to your advice on using boiling water to warm up the goo and I used a gun this time to get it out - the gun was great - I'll use it if I have to reinsatll. My original install was great but impossible to remove and spent much of yesterday trying to get it out !!! Ive kept it very simple this time - see how long it will last cooking on my roof !!!

I'll keep you all informed of how it goes !!!

Woppie


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Unfortunatley a pool noodle will not help - as I have kind of got a plastic container over the trans to protect it from my yak trolly - although it might work. Might have a go in a bit - might even sellys the noodle in !!!


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## Donutslayer (Jun 9, 2007)

wopfish said:


> - as I have kind of got a plastic container over the trans to protect it from my yak trolly -


?????


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Donutslayer - the trans has a container over it - like a case on the top - it my front well i put my ctug trolley which breaks down and fits in the compartment - If I hit some swell on a launch then the trolly will be forced back on to the trans and the cabling - so the container shields it from damage (in fact not damage but it becoming unstuck). Do you get my drift now.......


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## Donutslayer (Jun 9, 2007)

Perfectly sensible Wopfish.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Ive just poked my finger in the Gooo and its still bloomin really soft !!!!! I think its going to take weeks !!!!


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## CeltA (Dec 27, 2007)

for the silicon/sikaflex etc to stick effectively you should sand the plastic section you are stickin it too, also wipe it with wax & grease remover.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Sanded and wiped - its just the curing of a big dollop !!!!


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## Crikey (Oct 30, 2005)

Hi Guys,

If all else fails try the "well" method. The glued in wells in both the Sport and the Classic are still in place after the better part of 2 years of service. I used a Bostick sealer / adhesive to bond the pipe to the hull. The shoot through arrangement seems to work without problems and you do not have to worry about the integrity of the bond between the trnasducer and hull. Since doing this I have come into posession of another transducer so I could do a permanent mount in both yaks but have never felt the need to do it.

The link to the post is as follows

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4116


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## tomtre (Sep 27, 2007)

Hi Wopfish and everyone,
I stuck my transducer in the day you first posted not realising this thread was happening.
I used selleys all clear with a light sand, a big dollop ( quarter tube?) in behind the mast step of the adventure then press the transducer firmly in to the bottom and zip tie to the mast tube to hold it square and I hoped vertical. Then most of the rest of the tube over and around.
The stuff certainly behaves differently to silastic, it flows. And I just went down and prodded it and it is still doughy. 
I had read other posts about sounders so I had put a piece of pool noodle behind the mast tube to hold the thing down. I had it on the water at Shultz canal last weekend and the boat was upside down on Henry the night before, I already had the pool noodle in at that stage. The hobie mast step made a real easy anchor point. 
The sounder showed good pictures but didnt make the fish hungry
I suppose I could put my glasses on and read the directions, maybe I didnt need to use three quarters of a tube for the job. Time alone wiill tell. 
Hope your application works, hope mine works. I did take some photos, I might be able to learn how to post them if you are interested.
Bye for now,
Tom


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