# NT: 9/09 Yak Adventure in the Gulf of Carpentaria, Part 4



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

*Part 4 - The Final Chapter *

I wouldn't have minded paddling the Cox River again. Now that I'd sussed out its crocs and had a fair idea where they hung out, it would be a simple matter to work around them and enjoy the day. The most unpleasant thing about kayaking a dangerous body of water in the Gulf for the first time is learning what lives in it. Once that knowledge is obtained, the subsequent trip becomes much more relaxing.
*
Diary Entry: Monday, 28 September 2009*
With only one Northern Territory river remaining on our travel agenda, things were soon to wind down. I'd chosen the Roper to finish the trip on, aiming to explore downstream of where I'd camped in 2008. One thing I missed out on doing that year was exploring the 15.3km stretch of water down to Roper Bar. Now I'd have another crack at it - if I didn't wreck my toe again!

*1*








_'Lomarieum Lagoon' pictured here is found alongside the Roper River near St Vidgeon ruins. I considered it for paddling opportunities but on appearance the water seemed shallow and had a large amount of weed growth to contend with. People in the past have said not to enter this lagoon because it allegedly holds big crocs but if you listened to everything preached about kayaking the Gulf, you'd end up hiding in the car with the doors locked. _

I was keen to get to the Roper camp but when we reached the turnoff to the river, became stopped by a gate across the road both chained and padlocked. Without access we couldn't fish so I suggested we backtrack to a fence-line about 3.7ks away and find a way in there. By chance it had a fresh grading alongside it assisting the cars and took a direct path to the river, putting us onto a superior camp in a better position than we were supposed to be at.

*2*








_We stayed two nights at the Roper in this primitive gully above the bank. With a regularity of 'firsts' happening over the month, I'd say we were the first kayakers to ever visit this place, especially since the bulldozer had created the track down to it only quite recently._

*3*








_Our first day at the river didn't see us venture too far from launch as we spent a bit of time casting to the numerous snags on immediate offer. The Roper is heavily littered with sunken trees and provides a lifetime of lure fishing for the keen. I managed a small barra which we kept for tea but apart from that, the action was surprisingly disappointing._

Day 2 saw us tackle the paddle to Roper Bar. I still had my GE maps from 2008 and planned to utilise them over the distance to keep tabs on where we were (more for fun than serious navigating). The launch began like any other over the month but quickly turned 'ugly' when a large spider disturbed in the cockpit scrambled up my leg. In a panic I nearly went overboard but managed to brush it onto the deck where it remained safe from sensitive body parts. Craig thought I was just being silly but he never saw how big the thing was.

*4*








_This is a typical snag come across on the day. We endeavoured to work as many snags as possible but soon realised that attempting this would not see us getting too far downriver. So, the troll was adopted instead hoping the lures would pass by things that wanted to eat them. Barra in these conditions could be holed up anywhere and we knew it would be hard work to find their homes. This was later confirmed when for the entire day our total catch came to just two fish by Craig._

*5*








_Our final barramundi for the 2009 trip (caught on the return paddle). We took this guy back to camp and had a piece for dinner each before Craig put the remainder in his 12V 'fridge' to transport back to Cairns. He gave me a fillet at Mataranka which I managed to get to Sydney three days later. It's probably easier simply buying the Woolies reconstituted Vietnamese barra from the shelves but not half as much fun as carrying one over 3000 kays to your kitchen table.
_
*6*








_Here's an elevated hazy shot of the Roper taken 1.93km from camp (in a straight line) which gives an appreciation of the countryside surrounding the river. Whilst exploring the area near where the photo was taken, Craig made an unusual discovery of a human skull in a rocky hollow next to a pile of bones wrapped in bark. The skull appeared to be that of a youth and on examination didn't reveal any markings indicating foul play. A number of other bones were scattered on the ground near a cloth shroud that we assumed would have covered the body at some stage. We believed foraging animals had disturbed the body after it was placed there._

*7*








_Part of what we found. The bones weren't too far from a refurbished flood monitoring station so it's highly likely that other people knew of them. A small village lies about 2.3km east of here so again there's a good chance someone has seen them. The mystery which prevails though is that if they are so well-known, then why aren't they in a proper burial site?_

8








_Note the bones around Craig's feet and the cloth shroud to his right; the skull was sitting inside the hollow at about head-level. We had a good look around the area after leaving here but couldn't find any further evidence of dead people.
_
*9*








_We finally made it to Roper Bar, and I got to tick off something else on my outstanding 'to do' list in the Gulf. This was a fun day exploring despite the fishing being crap. As far as crocs went we only saw a few small ones that didn't bother the Junglefisher for once._

*Our final night in the bush:*
For something different we didn't blow anything up on our final night in the outback. I patched the car up instead replacing a broken thermo-fan switch (a renowned weak point in the Swift) and cable-tying various panels back into place. The spare tyre was left alone for the trip home with the 'triple-plugged' Toyo only to be used in extreme emergencies. We packed for an early exit and burnt what rubbish we could. The ABC was on as we worked covering a story about some 'dust storm' affecting greater Sydney and much of the east coast. I made a comment that we'd been up to our arses in dust for the past month and couldn't see what the fuss was about. By a fine-tuned calculation the 4-litre cask of port finally ran dry on the last night. I enjoyed it under the stars listening to a Julio Iglesias CD that put Craig to sleep.

It felt sad having to leave the wilderness behind but at least I knew it would pretty much be the same place again if I ever came back. We'd both enjoyed ourselves away and were taking some fine memories home to share with people. Craig really surprised me how well he adapted to everything and never once complained or refused to do anything I suggested, even to continue upriver after his close call in the Cox River with the monster croc. There were obvious advantages in having a second person along, especially someone driving a 4x4 that saw me attempt tracks I wouldn't normally have in the Swift. What I did miss out on though was my regular UFO spotting sessions of the skies at night, something I rather enjoy when alone with occasional positive results.

*10*








_This is the last time we got to open one of those 'bush' fences that I never seemed able to decipher the workings of. We had to go through here to avoid a section of track on the other side that I couldn't have crossed to reach the Roper campsite. From here we had a simple canter to Mataranka to refuel, buy ice and record our farewell together. We didn't plan to stick together from this point on and said our goodbyes in a park full of blackfellas._
*
My trip home:*
If you study a map of Australia, the distance between Mataranka and Sydney becomes quite daunting when considering you're driving a fairly old car that's done a lot of kilometres and has just been bashed around the bush for a month. The one thing in my favour however, was traditional Suzuki reliability and proven Jap performance - I couldn't see why the next three days would be different to any other. The journey home is an adventure in itself, and on this occasion I wasn't disappointed. Here's a summary:

By noon on day 1, the external thermometer had reached a pleasant 38C and I was enjoying the experience of not having air-con when I noticed temperature gauge stuck on zero. Pulling over, I found the terminal snapped on the sender switch on the engine (what the?) but luckily had a spare and replaced it with only minor scalding from the coolant. Pushing on I managed to make Camooweal for an evening stopover and partly caught the news in a roadhouse on the first TV I'd seen in a month. The broadcast was terrible - Samoa destroyed by tidal waves, Sumatra hit by deadly earthquakes, a fatal car smash and a riot somewhere. Facing a few crocs seemed insignificant at that point in my life.

Day 2 needed me to make the duckpond at Charleville, Qld (where I sleep) to allow me to be home on the third day. Distance-wise, this meant undertaking some night driving through Skippy and his roadside buddies. Fifteen hours from setting off and roughly 40 minutes from destination, I took some evening video of the local wildlife:

*11*








_(Still from camera video) This is the single biggest concern to an old Swift and without macropodial protection fitted I couldn't travel faster than 70kph. Interestingly, half an hour prior to this image a road train doing the limit approached from behind and I radioed the driver to overtake. As he passed he bowled over a roo that nearly cleaned me up. Calling back, he said he 'thought' he'd hit one&#8230;_

Despite my gallant attempts to protect the car, a roo eventually slammed into me side-on destroying the electric mirror and leaving several minor indentations down the right panelling where it 'bounced' along the metal. If I hadn't braked and spun the car a moment before impact, the damage would have been quite severe. I was showered with glass when it happened and initially thought it had taken out the side window or windscreen.

*12*








_(Still from camera video) Here's the poor roo that hit me. I think its hip was broken as it couldn't move one of its back legs. Rather than leaving it to suffer, I dispatched it humanely with the rifle. I considered bringing the meat home for the dog but didn't really want a car full of fleas, ticks, lice and blood. But the story doesn't end there. Reaching Charleville not long after, I was stopped by the Highway Patrol while trying to find the turnoff to the duck pond. My only worry was the rifle clearly visible in the back (in its cover but not packed away) that one of the cops saw and remarked on. Guiltily I confessed about the roo, the broken mirror and the fact I had the proof on video but they just laughed, especially when hearing I'd just spent a month in the Gulf in a Swift. They were decent guys though and even guided me to the pond. Charleville cops rule!_

*Last day on the road:*
It was nearly over. Only 24 hours to go and what could possibly happen? The sequence of events which pursued me that day was actually quite remarkable. To start with I faced a nasty locust plague that seemed to last forever, followed by hours of hot, gale-force winds and dust. Five kays from Nyngan the heat and lowered weight on the 65-series spare tyre caused it to shred itself a few metres down from a flyblown stinky roo. Climbing the mountains in darkness from Lithgow, I drove into torrential blinding rain and pounding hail forcing me pull over yet again. As if that wasn't enough, a thick fog smothered the Blue Mountains lasting entirely until the ascent to Sydney. The queues stretched long behind me as I crawled along trying to see the road but I didn't care. They could wait.

I arrived home around midnight, stressed to the max but safe. I knew the Zook would do it!

13








_Pumping up the plugged Toyo 'Off Road' tyre near Nyngan. I was impressed by the several locals who pulled over here to render assistance while I swallowed flies and choked on the nearby rotting roo carcass. At Nyngan the tyre was patched and a tube put in that I'd been carrying ten years waiting for this very moment. I wasn't able to buy a '65' series spare anywhere in town and had to return to Sydney without one, hoping I wouldn't get another blow-out._

*Conclusion:*
Another Gulf trip marked off, another story to tell. I hope everyone who's had a chance to follow this adventure blog has enjoyed it as much as I did creating it. Will I be going back in 2010? At this stage no, but I did record about 70 'uncharted' tracks on the Savannah Way which I'll be examining via GE to see where they go. Who knows, they could reveal little-known about 'bush' treasures and secret fishing holes only visited during the Dreamtime. If the temptation is great enough, Gulf trek #10 may happen.

So, what was my favourite part of the trip? It would have to be the 4-day paddle-camp down River X plus the fishing around the Limmen. The most frustrating? Not being able to get the yaks into that deep canyon in the same river - And, that effing tyre!!!
*
A few quick facts and figures for the interested:*
Distance travelled - 7426km; Fuel cost - $747; Average MPG - 39.1 (7.22L per 100km); monthly accommodation cost - $22 (I think); body damage - a couple of superficial scratches; total 2WD vehicles seen along 1374km of the Savannah Way - just one; total '86 Gti Swifts seen in a month/7426km of driving - nil; number of crocs injured over the month - nil; weight loss - 4.5kg; car damage - 1 x smashed headlight, both rear wheel bearings, thermo fan switch, temperature sender switch, 1 x smashed side mirror and internals, buckled spoiler brackets, 1 x shredded spare tyre, cracks in the floor from the cross-member gearbox mount.

And finally, a few last-minute happy snaps of the trek that didn't quite make it onto earlier posts:

*14*








_About to cross a gully that nearly ripped the spoiler off the Swift on the River X 'gorge' track. We've since smoothed the sides a bit and laid some rocks down to stop it happening again. _

*15*








_A very cranky Olive Python at River X._

*16*








_River X scenery._

*17*








_Craig lining up a 'staged' shot on our pig-less pig hunt._

*18*








_River X canyon._

*19*








_Alongside a respectable rock wall in River X._

*20*








_River X shallows. How many of these did we have to negotiate - too many!_

*21*








_River X scenery. Hard to believe people never come here, or don't even know it exists._

*22*








_A bit more River X scenery._

*23*








_A 'fun' little rapid section along River X._

*24*








_A different angle than before of the Zook bogged on the Robinson track. It was a big mistake to deviate from the main path._

*25*








_Wearyan campsite, the home of many, many frogs._

*26*








_Take me to your leader!_

*27*








_'Lost city', Limmen National Park._

*28*








_Limmen River scenery, looking towards one of the 'Four Archers'._

*29*








_One severely rooted Suzuki spare tyre 5 kays out of Nyngan._

Thanks for reading,

The End

Rick

(Here's the links to parts 1 - 3 if you missed the earlier posts
*Part 1*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32851
*Part 2*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33346
*Part 3*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=34318


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## Vulcan (Nov 6, 2008)

Murd.

Mate that trip is just awesome. 8) 
Should take a while to adjust living in civilization again. :lol:

Copulator
Vulcan


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## garyp (May 30, 2008)

Another fantastic report Murd - thanks again for sharing and I am glad that you and Junglefisher returned to your loved ones with exciting tales to share.

I can't stop thinking about that skull & bones. My mind keeps reverting to Wolf Creek and the possibility that you may have stumbled onto Peter Falconio! :shock: Did you and Junglefisher discuss reporting it at all? I know it is close to a town etc but it seems mighty odd that the site is not marked in any way. Then again, if it were a suspicious type scene I doubt a serial murderer would place it in a rocky hollow!?!

Anyway, thanks again for the great read. Cheers Gary


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## Duane (Oct 20, 2007)

Thanks Murd

Great Pics and Report.

It's great to see a small economical 2wd getting out and enjoying places where the marketing geniuses tell you that to have any fun you'll need a big shiny 4wd.


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## PhilC (Oct 10, 2008)

G'day Rick,

A fantastic read, great piccies, as always!


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## craig450 (May 11, 2007)

Thanks for the report Murd, i thoroughly enjoyed reading every part of the journey.
I hope you do go back this year, i want another report already!! :lol:


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## seawind (Mar 29, 2007)

Thanks.


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## TheFishinMusician (Feb 5, 2007)

.


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## jimmy34 (Apr 20, 2007)

Another kickass report from murd. you're a legend mate. Inspirational stuff. Thanks.


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## crazyratwoman (Feb 26, 2007)

wow, im gobsmacked!!! what an awesome experience... i could almost smell the flyblown roo euw euw euw!!!!

actually... how stinky did you guys get?


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## fourbee4 (May 6, 2008)

Murd/Junglefisher,

Once again thanks for sharing your adventure. Having just returned from the Territory not so long ago I can appreciate what a wonderful part of the world it is. I wish I could have experienced what you guys have. Great stuff.

Cheers
Andy.


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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

wonderful series of fascinating reports, thanks very much boys!


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Rick and Craig to read all reports of your adventure has been a pleasure....thanks fellers.


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## RedPhoenix (Jun 13, 2006)

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

----

QlpoOTFBWSZTWRvzAA8AADpXgAAQYOchKBQAP+/f4DABY1KYhqYhNGp6nqZpqnqeptTZEGMJiaDBGIZGEwaaEymTVPJ6RpB6mQZERTxv+6vyDagAJeG7MJ/yLw6PLsgJi0WYng9JylNo/mMgHssuYBaVdgkV+pTD5zPmLRlAScrsZqwsfq+2B0DVWmSle26b/bj8WrcGvbkdJyD4YoRVx9BxFgA2O4cOhCo0fHDJSYC++h8ZhTNUPjV1otEDnuT1SAbHasw2BJIuHp270iqVNNMlfZhn8RSKD3IfEnECSg8lBuUfnmNpZfUXDimM6xpHMAjKa4gahcm5Lqo9vLzBOZZU69LMaNAYLw9i46GAkyjFqDAuCZ5grIhesFIbFW72oiletyvrn3LE8y0zxzAUECZsJFCjmAsAk7cPu91Y33WqXlRaTyivPRw7iZfYtQog2IWqh75X/tFyoMrYUWed466YMgLrqNDo3uLuSKcKEgN+YAHg


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## YakCult (Nov 4, 2008)

Well done guy's - a truly great adventure from start to finish! 
Great job with the photography, too......
Top shelf stuff!!
Thanks Rick & thanks Craig.......


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## Wembas (Oct 16, 2008)

A fantastic series of reports guys - im blown away by your adventuring spirit.

Id love to entertain a similar trip but could come up with a thousand excuses of why i couldnt go.... the kids, the job, gotta feed the goldfish ,etc etc etc.... what a shame.

thanks for sharing your trip and taking what i know would have been many hours/days putting the report together.
Cheers 
Adrian


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## johnny (Aug 12, 2007)

love it Rick..boys own stuff


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## Mushi (Aug 31, 2005)

Very inspiring, great read and pics. thanks for all your effort  Can't believe the little swift got the job done so well too!


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## SkyblueCraig (Aug 7, 2009)

Awesome report. Fantastic photos. The whole series looks like a very publishable story, certainly its of the highest quality for a forum like this and i appreciate the effort thats gone into it. Its great to read such an honest fair dinkum aussie adventure. Most of us can only dream of having the balls to do that trip.


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## Grantos (Jan 28, 2008)

Rick,

If this is the last trip you make to the Gulf than I'll shave my head and grow a biker's beard _(sorry Jungle Fisher)_. 

Another great read, as per usual, so well done again.


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## bilby (Sep 2, 2008)

Mate great stuff, that would have been a great trip.
Cheers Bilby.


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## blueyak (Jan 20, 2009)

Great trip, great photo's, great report and a great experienceI bet. 
Well done guys.


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## spottymac (Aug 29, 2005)

Thanks for sharing you Awesome trip with us, you guys are legends


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## madkeenfisher (Jul 24, 2008)

Dude

Great read on a lonely Satyrday night while enjoying a few wild turkeys. If only my 07 navara could handle the top end as wellas the swift I would have tried to give it a go. maybe nissan might get it right next decade. Fair effort getting the swift into some of those areas. Love your wrk and your reports.

MAD


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## breamfish (May 19, 2009)

Awesome report murd it looks like an amazing place up there 8)


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## fonda (Jun 14, 2009)

Legendary trip good stuff .....Awesome writeup


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## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

Thanx everyone for the great feedback. The 4 parts of the 2009 Gulf trip were fun to create and share on the forum. I'll just respond to some of the comments: -



> GaryP
> I can't stop thinking about that skull & bones. My mind keeps reverting to Wolf Creek and the possibility that you may have stumbled onto Peter Falconio!


Gary, I was thinking more Azaria Chamberlain, or Harold Holt. We didn't really discuss reporting it to anyone. I handled the skull to check it out and believe now I was cursed - the cruelest of curses being: 'You won't be catching many kingies at Longy when you get back to Sydney!' It actually came true...



> Duane
> to have any fun you'll need a big shiny 4wd.


Duane, I cannot count the number of times people have stared and photographed the Zook in the Gulf. Always makes me laugh but still she's an old machine and has to be treated with love.



> Craig450
> I hope you do go back this year, i want another report already!!


Craig, I'll go back when you start pedalling your bike around Australia again - in the correct direction this time!



> RedPhoenix
> Appreciate all the effort that has gone into this guys - it take an awful lot of stuffing around to make a good report, with photo editing, placement, entertaining textual content, and so on. There have been many happy readers of this thread (and will be many more in the future!). And although not everyone has the confidence or willingness to specifically comment on the thread after reading it, if AKFF had a 'like this' button (like facebook), I suspect this series of reports would be right up there in the record books for popularity.


Red, deeply touched by this comment. These reports do take a lot of 'stuffing around' but remarks like this make it worthwhile. Plus, they teach me much about photo editing, grammar, style and expression.



> Breamfish
> it looks like an amazing place up there


Matt, it is an amazing place but you have to realise that between the pretty pictures of the rivers and camps and fish there is a lot of 'nothing really to check out here' moments.



> Bertros
> I, like many others no doubt, will be pencilling this in as a trip to be done in the years to come. Here's hoping it really does remain untouched.


Bertros, luckily for Australia the Gulf hasn't been affected by commercialism like Cape York has. I can't see it changing for a very long time.

Rick


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

Can you go again....please....soon?? Really good read and the photos are amazing.


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## Notshy (Oct 26, 2008)

Great Trip report!! VERY interesting!!

We completed the same trip just the oppisite direction prob just b4 you did yours, so it is good to know exactly where your'e talking about.A little disappoited that there was no night fishing from the kayaks! I can't see the difference between paddling a yak in these rivers during the day and during the night?? IMPO you'd have to be bloody mad to do either!

Congrats!
Cheated death once again
U gotta die one day but I''m sure as shit don't want to be lurned into croc crap!


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## MrX (Feb 7, 2008)

Another terrific report, Rick!

Just watched this movie about fishing for barra in the territory creeks:

http://www.blackwatermovie.com/

It starred two hot chicks, but I was picturing you and Junglefisher hiding up in the mangroves from a man-eating crock. Next time?


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## cybertrouts (Jan 18, 2010)

I've fished Shady Camp in the NT in a tiny tinny - that was more than enough croc thrills for me - not a chance you could lure me into a yak.
Brilliant - just awesome - thank you!


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## JohnnyMagpie (Sep 7, 2007)

Always a pleasure to read your reports. They are the trips we all dream of but never achieve. Thanks Peter


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