# Mirage Drive Lube



## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

I've always used Inox.

But I was at a Hobie outlet the other day and the guy told me it was the worst thing I could use. The reason, he said, was that it wasn't water soluble. Therefore it would attract sand that would not be washed off during use. He recommended Armor All (edit: may have been WD40) because it was water soluble.

Now I use Inox BECAUSE it's not water soluble. I thought the idea was to keep the salt water out and to expell any salt water during application. I always remove my Mirage at launch and landing so that it doesn't contact sand and grit. I've had mine for 4 years now and have had zero problems and performed zero maintenance. Should I change what I'm doing?


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## Brez (Mar 2, 2012)

Hmmmm , i use innox aswell Ado and always have . Apparently ballistol (?) is even better than innox . if the drive gets a bit sqeaky i usually grease up the pivot points . I've never heard of anyone using armour all for that purpose


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## WombatFish (Oct 30, 2011)

i have been using inox as well, works a treat. One thing i have noticed is that it will effect the rubber of the mirage drive fins, seems to slightly soak in, make the rubber sticky and expand a touch, anywhere i have drips on the rubber i will notice after a day or so slight welts where the inox has effected the rubber. I just wipe off any drips when i spray. Apparently it will do the same to the seals around the twist lock hatches. Not sure if the other product 'lanox' has the same problem.


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## GlenelgKiller (Mar 13, 2012)

Interesting. When i picked mine up last week the dealer here mentioned armour all but in the context of caring for the fins. Said to use a degreaser like wd40 on the mechanism itself


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

GlenelgKiller said:


> Interesting. When i picked mine up last week the dealer here mentioned armour all but in the context of caring for the fins. Said to use a degreaser like wd40 on the mechanism itself


I may have been wrong Glenelgkiller. He may indeed have said WD40 for the mechanism. I mentioned Armor All for the hatch seals. In any case he said don't use Inox. Hasn't changed my mind yet. Does that make me an idiot? I like the fact that it repels water.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

I've used Armour-All on the drive before but I usually use Lanox as it's the easiest can to grab around home.

Any who owns a motorbike would know you never ever put Armour-all on your bike seat unless you want to slip and slide all over the place, it's slipperyyyyyyyyy!


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## pavo (Jul 14, 2009)

I've found Lanox holds sand. Hents the L. For lanolin in it. 
Got my self a can of silicon spray and all good


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

pavo said:


> I've found Lanox holds sand. Hence the L. for lanolin in it.
> Got my self a can of silicon spray and all good


ADo
Both Lanox and Inox will hold sand particles. That doesn't mean they don't have specific applications.

From what I understand, the desired (Hobie) function for the drive chains/moving parts is to lubricate only, while not attracting abrasive particles such as salt, and, more importantly, *sand*. 
The system is designed from the ground up to operate in salt water, with _a post operation maintainence regime of rinsing in fresh water to remove the salt_. The advice I received from Sunstate Hobie, was  to allow it to dry, and then use only a high grade silicon lubricant, such as CRC Silicon Lubricant 808. It is expensive ($ 18), but it does what Hobie intended, i.e. .... lubricates the drive chains and pivot points, without attracting harmful particles. It is also excellent applied to the ball race of AI/TI mast mounts, and to the rudder pivot point.

trev


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## bildad (Jun 20, 2011)

kayakone said:


> The advice I received from Sunstate Hobie, was  to allow it to dry, and then use only a high grade silicon lubricant, such as CRC Silicon Lubricant 808. It is expensive ($ 18), but it does what Hobie intended, i.e. .... lubricates without attracting harmful particles. It is also excellent applied to the ball race of AI mast mounts, and to the rudder pivot point.
> 
> trev


X 2


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## MrFaulty (May 15, 2008)

I used to sell Inox and it is the product to use (I no longer sell it sot his isnt an advert); the reason you should use inox - it is anti static, so it does not "attract" sand, sure sand may stick to it but it will stick to any lube; inox is n ot petroleum based hence it will NOT hurt rubbers and platics; inox is actually food safe, (ie it can be eaten but I wouldnt recommend especially from the aerosol can lol), hence it is a pretty safe product.

Lanox (made byt eh same people who make inox is okay but it is not antistatic, however, it is more water resistant, therefore providsing protection longer. Lanox is lanolin based, ie not food safe but not a hazardous product either.

WD40 - dont touch the stuff, being petroleum based it will potentially adversely affect plastics and rubbers.

Armor all - alcohol based, so it WILL dry out rubbers and it not a great product.


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## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

I don't use anything.
Bought my Revo about the same time Ado bought his adventure and it's had plenty of use with ST fins.
The only this that's gone wrong with it is when I busted a drum trying to drag race a boat.
I don't think it needs any lubricant.
There's no way I'd put anything greasy on it, there's plenty of sand in the water out past the surf break and it's going to make it harder to wash the salt off too.


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## Scott (Aug 29, 2005)

Junglefisher said:


> I don't use anything.
> Bought my Revo about the same time Ado bought his adventure and it's had plenty of use with ST fins.
> The only this that's gone wrong with it is when I busted a drum trying to drag race a boat.
> I don't think it needs any lubricant.
> There's no way I'd put anything greasy on it, there's plenty of sand in the water out past the surf break and it's going to make it harder to wash the salt off too.


I do the same, all it gets is the occasional rinse in fresh water. It might get this after every 4 or 5 saltwater trips. No rust evident after about 4 years.


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## doddsj (May 24, 2010)

G'day,

I use WD40 on all the metal parts inclusing the chain drive. I think that is what is recommended by Hobie.

"WD40 - dont touch the stuff, being petroleum based it will potentially adversely affect plastics and rubbers."

I have used WD40 for more than 20 years on 4 different Boats, mainly to protect parts under the cowling from rust. Never had any problems with it adversly affecting any Plastic or Rubber.

Cheers,
Steve.


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## Sunhobie (Jun 22, 2006)

Hi Guys,
I have seen the effects of not enough love, too much love and everything in between (in relation to mirage drives that is ;-) )
In my opinion, the best way to look after your drive is to flush it with fresh water after every use in salt and give it an OCCASIONAL spray around the metal parts with a lubricant. It is imperative that you wipe off the excess. Inox and some other products can adversely affect the rubber parts. Sticky stuff like Lanox will attract the grit and eventually cause more wear.
Bathing the whole mechanism in silicon or similar products can actually wash out the lubricants used at assembly and can cause the friction-fitted set screws that hold the shafts in place, to loosen.


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## punchanello (Oct 6, 2011)

GlenelgKiller said:


> Interesting. When i picked mine up last week the dealer here mentioned armour all but in the context of caring for the fins. Said to use a degreaser like wd40 on the mechanism itself


Same with mine.


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks Sunhobie. I'm mainly saying that of course because that's what I do (pretty much). I would have been quiet otherwise.


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## foxx1 (Jun 3, 2012)

Took apart an old Jervis Walker reel yesterday purely for the exercise. In the process I used sewing machine oil to clean it all and lube the internals, the result looks like new and works even better. Is it a bad idea or just untested? Would it work on your issue? Just got me thinking after the mention of Amourall


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## GregL (Jul 27, 2008)

Hi guys,
We recommend that the Mirage Drive is rinsed after each use in fresh water - both to rinse off the salt, and any bits of grit that may have found their way into the chains and/or sprockets - so even if you are only using the drive in fresh water, it is still advisable to give it a rinse when you get home.
Innox, Lannox, WD40 etc....
The drive itself does not need to be lubricated, per say. 
The idea of spraying a bit of 'stuff' onto the stainless chain/cable is purely to protect it from rust - afterall, it is stainLESS metal, not stainPROOF - if left unprotected, over time the metal will be subjected to a bit of very light rust.
We do in fact recommend Innox as our preferred 'protectant' for this purpose, and do not recommend WD40 as this is known to create a bit of gunge on the chains over time which grit will stick to.
This is how we maintain our demo drives at HQ and has been more than proved to be a successful and reliable way of looking after the Mirage Drive.

Hope that helps guys,

Regards,
Greg


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