# Rod advice required



## Peril (Sep 5, 2005)

Ant, you'll get loads of replies that reflect the current prejudices of the author. Go with what you are most comfortable.

1) I've had 1 and 2 piece rods and haven't seen any difference in use. Most of my recent fish have come on a 3 piece.

2) I like baitcaster but if you're fishing very light go threadline

Anyone want to run a book on who'll be the first to mention a brand/model of rod and what it'll be


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## waldo (Aug 19, 2007)

Peril said:


> Anyone want to run a book on who'll be the first to mention a brand/model of rod and what it'll be


What sorta odds ar we talkin' ?


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## fishnfreak (Jun 22, 2007)

if you have no problems transporting long rods then go one peice, they have a much smoother action, instead of the action being broken up into two sections


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## wigg (Jan 6, 2007)

Get a Nitro

Cheers

Wigg


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## justcrusin (Oct 1, 2006)

Gday lefty, if your after budget any of the im6 graphite rods should be pretty good. I have heard the berkley dropshot (regular not tournament or bronze) have had a few breakages. I love my pfluegers trion for around the $100 mark they have sevred me well. But of course any graphite composite blank with fuji guides and reel seats is going to be a real quaility rod.

I have been doing a bit of research into blanks lately (going to start building my own :twisted: ) and for the same product their is a great deal of price difference. EG: a loomis gl2 rod retails for around the $300-$400 mark but it is really an IM6 blank that other brands are selling from $100 to $200. From what i can gather the GL3 is an IM7 and the bronze and IMX are graphite compsites and much higher quaility.

Hope santa's nice to you

Cheers Dave


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## oztrav (Aug 26, 2007)

berkely dropshot are pretty good and cheap come in 1 and 2 piece

you didnt leave much for us to do with what you wanted other than drop brands etc

coincidently i was at a mart yesterday morning and they have alot of their shimano non range you know the cheap ones on sale from $20 to $50 these rods have the cork grip ussually medium action and probably better for casting heavier lures or bait like jackells slugs and spinners


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## phantom (Oct 16, 2006)

Hi all,

Noticed a post on this topic by "caught2"

Quote"
For general use I have all spinning rods - a 1-3kg stick for estuaries and a 2-4kg outfit for snapper, kingies etc and a few other odd ones lying around. I have been getting reefed a bit lately so might get a heavier stick for the snapper and kingies - perhaps a 5-8kg.

All that being said, if you want the rod for chasing natives I'd go a baitcaster as the accuracy is so much better and you can go a 6'6" rod that'll handle even the biggest cod and isn't too bad to cast. You'd have to be careful about using such an outfit in salt though, as many baitcasters are not very salt water friendly.
"

Can someone explain the rating like 5-8Kg, what does it means in terms of what you can do with it?

If you were rigging for kingies, what reel and line would you recommend?

I thought the baitcaster would not take enough line.

I spoke to a tech at Diawa and he recommended, value for money the EXCELER or MEGAFORCE, any comments?

Hope I'm not of the topic,

Kind Regards,

Phantom


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## KingHit (Oct 3, 2007)

Hi Phantom,

The KG rating of a rod is a recommendation from the manufacturer on the strength of line to be used with the rod. If you run really light braid on leader (3kg) through a heavy rod (8kg) then the strength of the rod as it bends (and correspondingly wants to straighten out) will break the line. If the oppositeis done and you run 8kg line through a 3 kg rod then the rod will load (bend) to a point where you can no longer exert additional pressure on the fish and become a passanger or beyond (ie breaking point though all of this depends on how much drag you run on your reel).

It is important to realise this is a manufacturer estimate. With good rod work (low rod angle) and a good properlly set drag you can really push a rod beyond its sensible limits (I know i guy who has landed more 50lb cod than i have had hot breakfasts on an old (before they went shit) strudwick 3kg baitcaster.)

Hope that kinda clears things up

Cheers,

Chris


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## Peril (Sep 5, 2005)

KingHit said:


> The KG rating of a rod is a recommendation from the manufacturer on the strength of line to be used with the rod.


Agree


KingHit said:


> If you run really light braid on leader (3kg) through a heavy rod (8kg) then the strength of the rod as it bends (and correspondingly wants to straighten out) will break the line.


No, a rod can't break line as it exerts very little tension in the line, regardless of wheether it bends or not. Rough guides can break line. Otherwise the maximum tension in the line is determined by the reel's drag setting and its quality (ie stickiness). There is a slightly increased chance of the line breaking when you get a big hit as the rod won't give as easily as a light rod so the line will take more of the shock.

Using a heavy rod with light line means that you will have reduced casting distance as the rod won't flex when casting light weights and much less fun playing light fish.


KingHit said:


> If the oppositeis done and you run 8kg line through a 3 kg rod then the rod will load (bend) to a point where you can no longer exert additional pressure on the fish and become a passanger or beyond (ie breaking point though all of this depends on how much drag you run on your reel).


You run the risk of breaking the rod if you set the drag to the rating of the line rather than that of the rod and you high stick the rod. In practice this means you have to be very patient and very gently work in a big fish. Pumping and winding will be restricted by the lack of grunt in the rod


KingHit said:


> It is important to realise this is a manufacturer estimate. With good rod work (low rod angle) and a good properlly set drag you can really push a rod beyond its sensible limits (I know i guy who has landed more 50lb cod than i have had hot breakfasts on an old (before they went shit) strudwick 3kg baitcaster.)


Some of the highend jigging sticks now are rated for line, jig weight and maximum drag. I think this is the way of the future and that all rods should have a recommended drag range rather than line breaking strain range. The performance of the rod depends on how much tension is applied to the line, which is limited by the drag, if set correctly. The difference between drag setting and breaking strain is a matter of risk for the angler and won't change the rod's performance one bit


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## simond11 (Aug 29, 2005)

Whatever rod you decide to get, make sure the rod butt is quite long, as many of the kayak rods I have seen in the USA and on websites seem to have a lengthened butt. I have tried a couple and they certainly help when fighting fishing as you can place them under your armpit and this enables you to have more leverage when sitting in a kayak fighting the larger fish.
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15


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