# Kayaking trip through the NT, Part 2



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

*Journey into the Unknown&#8230;*
(Firstly, for anyone who missed Part 1 and gives a rat's, here's the link:
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20307 )

After my limited success at the billabongs it was back to Normanton for a night to recoup and begin the long slug west along the Savannah Way to my next river. Paddling opportunities exist in the Norman River at Normanton for those visiting but I have only ever yakked the Norman near coastal Karumba. Why? I have a bad vibe about the Norman River and don't trust its murky waters. It is this perception which I believe helps me stay alive in the Top End and I never doubt it when considering the places I launch at.

The following morning I set off for the big drive. (A tempting river crossed soon after Normanton is the Bynoe. I paddled it downstream one year but found the tide wrong and I couldn't catch a thing. The Bynoe holds large crocs by the way and extreme caution is needed if you intend to explore it. If you can't carry a rifle in your yak, don't even attempt it.) After passing Burketown the road deteriorated into consistent rows of chunky corrugations that made me wonder as I do on every trip, if this would be the last for the Swift? A severe clunk felt through the pedals along one extra-hard battering had me pulling over checking the car for a popped tie-rod or suspension arm. The problem was eventually found to be the tilt-steering lever which had released itself allowing a lot of metal parts to vibrate.

The surface worsened once Doomadgee was behind me, turning to bulldust between corrugations that seemed to be growing in size every kilometre. Tyre-slashing stones added to the blend of hazards but I pushed on, giving a big 'Yee Haa!' when I finally passed the border sign indicating the end of the Bourke Shire and the beginning of the NT. By late afternoon I'd reached my destination and established camp in bushland near a spring-fed creek overlooking a small stony valley/gorge above the river narrows (which shall be referred to as River X ).









The crossing of River X can get deep for a Suzuki Swift and is often quite rocky. On this day it was nothing to get concerned about.

River X historically provides exceptional fishing. Non-tidal and spring-fed, it never runs dry and much of where I paddle is unexplored and unfished because, a) Stink boaters can't access it b) People don't kayak the Gulf Savannah and c) It's very difficult to hike into. There are many secrets to River X. In 1999 I discovered ancient Aboriginal iconography in a series of hollows above a large deep downstream pool. The images create a mystical feel to the area which appears high in residual energies. Strange things have happened to me up there which even now as I write this, are causing me to react emotionally, as if I shouldn't be revealing its secrets for fear of tribal curse or retribution.

I'd planned big things for River X. A 2-3 day paddle downstream had been my mission since blazing and fishing the area considerably back in 2006. New maps and co-ordinates provided by 'Google Earth' had been collected and hopes were high in seeing a part of Australia never navigated or fished by yak/stinkboat/hiker. This was to be a journey of exploration into literally the unknown. I had no idea what I would find or catch or how far I would get, or even if I would survive the ordeal. 'Part 2' of my NT adventure is about the incredible trek I had down this remarkable river.









Packed and ready to go. I'd spent 4 fun days exploring, photographing and fishing the river before setting off. Sooty grunters were the main catch that literally drove me crazy with their willingness to consistently take lures. Other species encountered included freshwater longtom, archerfish, mangrove jack, barra and tarpon. Leaving the car behind for the duration was a little daunting. Risks of bushfires are high and to ease the menace of one destroying it I had to slash and burn every piece of grass in the vicinity (i.e. to make a firebreak) before convincing myself I'd have my transport when I returned.









These cute waterfalls greet you as you initially set off downriver. When times are wetter there can be as many as 12 individual flows coming down with some fantastic swimming pools above them. All water in the river is fine for drinking but a high dissolved mineral content in the falls' water means 'loose bowels' for a few days if drunk, which I stupidly did knowing the unpleasant outcome from earlier years - dumb dumb dumb Rick!









This big pool downstream is nearly bottomless and holds some good fish. It is also the site of the Aboriginal cave art I discovered in 1999.









Looking downriver from where the above shot was taken, you can see how the river follows the stony valley. There are countless places to flick a lure but be prepared to get sick of unhooking sooty grunter. The water is generally quite clear and many fish are often seen before they're caught.









This is a photo of some of the drawings. I managed to photograph every single piece on this trip and will endeavour to locate someone who can 'explain' it all to me.









Here's proof that the pool above holds some big 'uns, a 93.5cm beauty caught on 10lb mono. I literally smashed my old PB for barra by half a centimetre! In the background of this picture where the cliff meets the incline from the water is the site of the Aboriginal rock art.









Freshwater crocs were plentiful during the trek downriver. Having never seen humans before they were quite content with a near approach as this guy was. I didn't spot any salties along the way but never dismissed the fact that a stray one could be hanging around somewhere.









While paddling/trolling along a 2 kilometre pool with countless fishing opportunities I nabbed this PB 50cm mangrove jack on 10lb mono. During the fight a sizeable barramundi rose from the bottom to have a sniff at the action. Strangely, of the 3 biggest jacks I caught in the system all measured exactly 50cm.









Tarpon were prolific in the pools but I only landed the one near a pandanus bank. SPs or flies may have picked up a few more but I didn't have any.









Much of the scenery I experienced was quite spectacular, especially knowing that I was probably the first person in the world to view it from a yak. One could spend days flicking lures around the pools however I was content to simply troll mine along the bank and let the fish hook themselves.









In my initial plans to explore the river I didn't take into account the many obstacles I would come across. Getting through the tight sections held me up as I moved stones about, cut trees from the path and scouted around searching out the easiest route. In places where I couldn't or didn't want to drag the yak, everything had to be unloaded and carted cross-country.









Here's another annoying section of river to negotiate. One consolation with the physical aspect of the trek was the knowledge that I had an unlimited water supply on hand. Without it, I couldn't have carried enough to last more than half a day in the 36C heat.









Finding a place to safely camp for the 2 nites was not an easy task due to the terrain and wildlife. I encountered dozens of huge wild pigs along the shoreline where their tracks had become permanent fixtures on the landscape. Not wishing to have a mob invade my camp at nite, or risk a hungry croc grabbing an easy meal, I had to go high. By a stroke of luck I found a perfect, near 'level' site at the base of a cliff near the roots of a hanging fig tree. The area had a primeval feel to it and at night with a nearby waterfall splashing through a spread of lush ferns I imagined I'd been transported to the Jurassic period. Both nights were spent at this location.









Near physical exhaustion and a potentially serious portage finally saw me give the excursion away. I was disappointed that I couldn't reach my intended destination but enthralled that I'd managed to pioneer some of the greatest country on Earth and pick up some good fish along the way. In the pool behind the trees in this photo I got a surprise when a 5 foot bull shark cruised gently under the yak. I believe the whole system is full of sharks which travel upstream during the wet.









Another freshwater jack caught on the troll and released. This was easily the best jack fishing I've encountered in all my NT trips.









This is the end of the 3rd day and the closing portage. In summary I'd rate this as one of the most exciting excursions I've ever conducted in the Gulf. It was extremely physical and hard going yet totally rewarding in many ways - I witnessed a pig swim 150m from bank to bank; I saw strange species of plants and palms inhabiting specialised ecosystems; I swam in crystal clear pools fed by waterfalls, and populated by friendly giant turtles; I caught a heap of fish that had never seen anglers before; I did this all alone.

In 2009 I might return to the familiar kilometres of River X to do it again and endeavour to reach my target and beyond. For now she has gone back to being a special part of Australia waiting to be explored.

Part 3 of the adventure will be following. We meet a Godzilla of a croc, tangle with a few bull sharks and cry over the loss of a mammoth barra. Stay tuned.


----------



## shiznic (May 14, 2008)

Wow that is really inspiring.Thank you for sharing, i feel ready for the weekend now.


----------



## Marty75 (Oct 23, 2007)

Simply amazing :!:


----------



## grinner (May 15, 2008)

absolutely fantastic report there and fantastic photos. that is a very pretty jack. the paintings obviously mean good fishing here cheers pete


----------



## bongorust (Jan 31, 2008)

Never fear the Murd Man is here!! Great stuff mate, keep the journey's comin, as long as you return to tell us about them


----------



## Sellz (May 3, 2008)

The NEW Malcolm Douglas!! 

Awesome......Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

Great stuff Murd, been looking forward to part II, now bring on part III and IIII
You've really inspired me and I'm already planning 2 weeks off next sept / oct to try and do something similar. 
I imagine you would have seen a lot of gonnas / snakes / skinks and all sorts of other awesome wildlife too.
Would the river have been more navigable if there had been more recent rains do you think?


----------



## redman (Jun 5, 2008)

Does it to me again - I have to read about this whilst stuck at work....unemployment is not my preferred option but I may do something stupid when part 3 is posted..


----------



## bombora (Mar 8, 2006)

That was a very classy piece of writing and photography Murds. Can feel your passion for the place dripping out of the 'puter. Inspirational!!!


----------



## L3GACY (Sep 2, 2007)

Just wanted to say thankyou for sharing your journey to river X murd. I imagine that you would like it to remain unspoilt and as such it would be tempting for a lot of people not to say anything about the area at all. Thanks mate, great read. Can't wait for part 3.


----------



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

Junglefisher said:


> I imagine you would have seen a lot of gonnas / snakes / skinks and all sorts of other awesome wildlife too.
> Would the river have been more navigable if there had been more recent rains do you think?


Funny you mention about the water levels. Yes, the trek would have been slightly easier but you still have to portage through each 'narrow', rapid or fall. I keep a watch on the BOM rainfall charts for the Gulf and plan my trip according to how much has come down and where. There's a lot of other variables to consider too as I am in a conventional car and the later in the season I go, the more chance that the road's been graded and that the river crossings won't cause me grief.

Wildlife forms a great part of my trips to the NT Gulf. This may sound silly but because I am travelling and camping solo, I substitute animals for people wherever possible. Snakes, lizards, turtles, birds, pigs, crocs (freshies only), insects and even fish become my companions around camp and on the river. Some of this will come out in later parts of the trip.



L3GACY said:


> I imagine that you would like it to remain unspoilt and as such it would be tempting for a lot of people not to say anything about the area at all.


I have no qualms about showing the area to people who genuinely wish to see it but yes, I am a little nervous about the exploitation which could result from giving the exact location away in a forum. In the 9 years since I first went there the region has remained virtually unchanged except for the alterations caused by natural forces - I'd hate to go back and now see some guy running paid tours through the area.


----------



## BJM (Oct 5, 2008)

murd said:


> Junglefisher said:
> 
> 
> > In the 9 years since I first went there the region has remained virtually unchanged except for the alterations caused by natural forces - I'd hate to go back and now see some guy running paid tours through the area.


THAT is a great quote !

Awesome report, hanging on for Part 3 and more if there is any !
Side question, are you doing this all on your own - or do you have someone wih you (Well staged photo's if you're on your own !)


----------



## cantcatch (Oct 10, 2007)

awsome report ,photos and fish good on ya


----------



## bassfisher (Aug 11, 2008)

WOW!!!,truley inspirational and well documented report.U R A LENGED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

BJM said:


> Side question, are you doing this all on your own - or do you have someone wih you (Well staged photo's if you're on your own !)


All on my own. Any photo with me in it trying to fake a natural pose is done via a telescopic tripod and a self-timer. Maybe next year that will change...


----------



## crazyratwoman (Feb 26, 2007)

that was absolutely awesome!!! thankyou so much for posting!!!


----------



## ArWeTherYet (Mar 25, 2007)

These are great adventures murd most of us only dream about. Cant wait till the next part.

Good on ya mate and thanks for sharing. 

By the way, nice set up for the rifle, wouldn't mind one in my SIK to keep the stink boats away. :lol:


----------



## BJM (Oct 5, 2008)

murd said:


> BJM said:
> 
> 
> > Side question, are you doing this all on your own - or do you have someone wih you (Well staged photo's if you're on your own !)
> ...


Double hte credit based on the fact you're on your own ! Great stuff


----------



## T-curve (Feb 19, 2007)

Thats just the Bees knees for me Murd :shock: . Fantastic stuff and thanks for sharing


----------



## scottm06 (Mar 4, 2008)

Trips of this magnitude leave you feeling very humble and greatful to have such a beautiful and wild backyard! You really wouldnt want to live anywhere else but in Oz!


----------



## Grantos (Jan 28, 2008)

I reckon you'd have to be dead if this read didn't inspire you!

Ps. I can't wait for the movie!


----------



## Cuda (Sep 18, 2006)

To my mind this report is just about the best I have had the pleasure of seeing on this or any other forum Murd :shock: Certainly got the imagination going through the great narrative and the pics are brilliant too  
Can't wait for part 3 :lol: 
Very envious of what you have achieved here!


----------



## Daveyak (Oct 6, 2005)

Yep, a damn good read & some great pics Murd. A truly great effort.

I rode up that road on my Dakar on 7th August & have checked my photos to find I have have pics of a group of us pulled up at that same water crossing. Not that I remember the name :? of the river so your secret is safe. We camped that night next to one of the many waterways crossed by that road & was amazed at the amount of (small) fish activity in the narrow & shallow stream.

I'd love to have the opportunity to get up there again, with fishing gear at least & can appreciate the challenges you faced with your kayak.


----------



## Zed (Sep 18, 2006)

Best freshwater yak report ever.

Two thumbs up!


----------



## Duane (Oct 20, 2007)

Thanks for the report, was a great read.


----------



## fourbee4 (May 6, 2008)

Murd,

Great stuff. I don't often read lengthy reports but found reading yours a real pleasure. Thanks for sharing your trip and I look forward to the next chapter.

Cheers
Fourbee4


----------



## joey (Jul 5, 2008)

geez I hope you're wearing sunscreen


----------

