# Getting Your Kayak on High 4X4 Roof Racks



## Orcinus (Oct 19, 2009)

Hi All,

I've had a 2x4 hilux for years and have had no problems getting my Viking Profish and other kayaks on the racks. . . until now.

I've recently upgraded to a new hilux 4x4 and whilst I can get the Profish up top, it's a bit of a struggle to do by myself. I tend to head out for solo missions so this could be an issue. Photo of the beast with my sea kayak and the Profish tucked in behind it below.

There have been posts regarding just this issue many moons ago but I can't seem to find them. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

Hi,
I've had an issue loading my PA 13 which weighs about 50 kg's onto my Mitsu Outlander :twisted: 
Have buggered my shoulder even though I fitted Thule "Slide" bars thinking a side load system would be best.... Wrong for me :? 
The problem for me has always been having to reach and stretch out, bending backwards to load and unload.
Have now bought and a Rhino "T Loader" which is working a treat (touch wood)  
No problems so far 8) 
They cost about $330, but I got mine on ebay for $150 still in box.
Check them out, they might do the job.
Cheers,
Rocket


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

rodrocket said:


> Hi,
> I've had an issue loading my PA 13 which weighs about 50 kg's onto my Mitsu Outlander :twisted:
> Have buggered my shoulder even though I fitted Thule "Slide" bars thinking a side load system would be best.... Wrong for me :?
> The problem for me has always been having to reach and stretch out, bending backwards to load and unload.
> ...


I bought a Rhino "T Loader" too, but there is a problem with them. Not with the system, nor the load rating, but with the fact that it _must_ come off the rear.

Where I often fish, the rear of the high Hilux (always wondered why they called them that) is into a one way busy car park, and to unload/load with the T Loader, means blocking the car park for a couple of minutes. Not a biggie,especially early am, but loading later in the day I feel under pressure blocking several cars trying to leave the car park. Side loading/unloading is better here, but with 40 kg empty for an Adventure hull, it is outside of the Thule Hullevator load limits.

I have instead built a home version of a side load for heavy kayaks off the high Hilux, and pick my 'victims' to help carefully. Unfortunately in summer, at 3.30 am, there are no 'victims' available.
Easier for the load later in the day, especially if I can con a geriatric like Jimbo into helping.


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## bruus (Aug 27, 2010)

Jimbo is far to short to provide any real help trev, otherwise I don't have much to add. My hilux isn't raised and doesn't have cradles on it so I can still manage to lift it on from the side.


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

I use the Thule Slipstream. My Elgrand is a similar height and I have an Adventure. It works a treat BUT requires room out the back and the ground must be level with very little side slope.


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

Ado, they look like they'd be great, but a PA12 or 14 exceeds the weight recommendation which 34kg I think.
The Adventure is 40.5 kg and PA12 is 44.5 kg both "bare" weight.
How is the system holding up so far ? Any signs of damage yet ?
Bit of a bugger also at $480 not including cross bars.......ouch


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

rodrocket said:


> Ado, they look like they'd be great, but a PA12 or 14 exceeds the weight recommendation which 34kg I think.
> The Adventure is 40.5 kg and PA12 is 44.5 kg both "bare" weight.
> How is the system holding up so far ? Any signs of damage yet ?
> Bit of a bugger also at $480 not including cross bars.......ouch


Is the Adventure really 40.5 kg? I think the hull wight is only 34kg, and I'd never load it rigged.

In any case, I've had it for four years and it's held up well. The only thing that's happened is that the length bars (particularly the one on the kerb side) have bowed a bit. Thos is mainly because I used to pull down on the straps before sliding it forward. Performance wise, it's been great. But yes it is expensive for what it is.


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

An Adventure hull from an AI, used on it's own, is a much heavier beast than a straight Adventure that cannot be rapidly (slowly) turned into an AI. There are AKA bars on the front and rear, and lots of strengthening and stainless steel cross-bracing in the hull around the mast area,,,,this all adds several kgs.

It is a bitch, and an injury risk, to unload/load that hull off/onto a Hilux with the racks at 2.2 metres above the ground level.


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## benjamin78au (Feb 9, 2013)

I have found the easiest way for me to put an AI on is side load, tent pole witha flat Eye , slides in side the rinho rack , then i put a tent pole from that down to ground, lift the top on to this pole. Wiggle it over so the rack takes most the load, lift the other end and it done.


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## Manny82 (Sep 24, 2013)

Hi got the same issue at the moment. Got a hilux as well and the lift and bigger tyres don't help. I'm was thinking to build a k-rack style slide attach one to the bullbar, the other one on the window and load it over the front. At the moment I just use something similar to the rhino rack side loader but don't like it.


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

That's the same method as the slipstream Liam. It's important that when doing the second lift, you get it up to shoulder height with palm up before using your upper body to push it on. It takes all the body stress out of it.


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## RhubarbTheYeti (Oct 28, 2013)

I have a Colorado with canopy which is quite a bit higher than my old Rodeo. I use an extender bar (dunno the brand) that hooks onto the aero racks, combined with an a-frame stand for roadwork signs. Place the extender on front rack and the sign stand just behind door. Rear of yak is lifted, flipped and rests on stand, from there I can then lift rear end of yak up onto the extender bar with front end (to rear of ute) resting on ground, then lift front end of yak onto rear roof rack and slide rear end of yak across extender onto rack. Remove extender. The a-frame makes the process a whole lot easier as i only have to lift and flip the yak initially to 1m high, then it is supported upside down making the lift to the racks so much easier. Trying to both lift and flip from the ground all the way up to roofrack level in one go is way too hard for a skinny yeti like me


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## RhubarbTheYeti (Oct 28, 2013)

Will take some pics tomorrow and try to post them to make it clearer what I mean


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## RhubarbTheYeti (Oct 28, 2013)




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## Orcinus (Oct 19, 2009)

Hi All,
Thanks for all your great ideas. I can see this is a perennial issue for us ute and 4x4 owners. Prompted by your comments, I took a trip down to my local roof rack store and stumbled upon these beauties:
http://www.rhinorack.com.au/products/wa ... oader_rusl ... so I think I'll give one a try and see how it goes. I can probably get a cheaper one on ebay or similar.
Unfortunately all this may be for naught. I'll see whether Suncorp think the new ute is worth fixing after the pummelling it received from the worst hail storm I've ever experienced in Byron Bay on Saturday. The Beast is doing the world's best golf ball impersonation down the passenger side, roof and bonnet. Out of this experience I can recommend TJM canopies - the only bit untouched


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

Ouch. Sorry to hear that Orcinus.


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## Manny82 (Sep 24, 2013)

Sry for the car. I finally build a k-rack style slider. It works pretty good over the bonnet and slides straight in the kayak cradles. I used the kind of loader you are looking at. The biggest thing I didn't like is if you load on concrete you will start scratching the kayak. Also since you use the cradles I can imagine the kayak being a bit unstable loading it not upside down.


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## Horizon line canoes (Oct 31, 2005)

Looks like you have found something to work with, and most of the options have been listed above as far as rack n roll and slide bars etc go. They all work but to be honest it doesn't matter what you do big heavy boats are always big heavy boats  usefull huh!

To be honest the best system I've used was one my father made for the back of our Nissan patrol wagon - it was my old skateboard with the axles (trucks) taken off and bolted upside down to the back of the roof rack - a piece of pipe fitted over the wheels between each side making the whole rear bar a roller - it was set 1cm lower than the rear bar itself so when the yak went flat it came off the roller and rested on the proper bar.

I think it cost a tenner and took a few hours of mucking about, but was still by far the best I've used. it meant loading at 40+ kg canoe on your own was perfectly doable without risk of damage to the car - although based on your last pics... your probably not too worried about scraping the car at this point :shock:

Cheers
Hanko


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