# Scratched up Rod- repair????



## Levi (Nov 24, 2008)

Hi all,

Well yesterday i purchased a new rod, Samaki 7ft spin, 10-20lb. Gave it a thrashing today on kingies and it was awesome!!!!

Then... .. the infamous cloey RM caught me out (there were 'no' waves so i wasnt payin attention) nothing major, but the rod got smashed into the rocks, all scratch up as i bailed out.

Do you think i should get it looked at?? is there anything that can be done to avoid it shattering later when loaded up on a fish??? Maybe there is nothing you can do with a graphit rod with external scratches, i just dont know??

cheers,


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## Levi (Nov 24, 2008)

Ok,

so i showed my local, he seems to think it will survive nothing terminal (i think... though a test tomorrow will show).

ended up with some rod varnish type stuff to fix the scratches, cosmetic fix only i can see...... only fish will tell if it now has a crack in the rod.


Now, i need a willing participant to help me test it... here kingy kingy kingy....... :twisted: 
(i am offically a lost cause now).


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## Ranger (May 31, 2008)

If you've damaged it I don't think there is anything you can do. It's why you have to be so careful with graphite, because as well as being strong it's also incredibly brittle! (I'm assuming it's graphite, as I have no idea what a Samiki is).

A little dent can cause a stress fracture or seriously weaken the the rod to the extent it causes it to explode the next time you load it up.

I guess all you can do is keep ya fingers crossed, and get out there and load it up!

I've banged and dropped my own rods a few times and had a coupla scary moments with no serious effects. Hopefully yours will be the same.

This is a good reason to beware when buying secondhand graphite rods, unless you know and trust the seller, because you never know what treatment the rod has been subjected to. I wince every time I go into a tacklestore and see Mr Potatohead grabbing the tip of a rod and giving it a good bend.


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## Levi (Nov 24, 2008)

Thanks Ranger,

Thats my thoughts too...... i had another graphite rod explde the other day, definate fault in it from a prior experience too!! so sad.... but i buy my gear to use andd abuse, rather than look at.

tomorrow kingy session will show me the way, fingers crossed for me, if goes bang it will be spectacular.

The Samaki is a new rod type. seems ok, nothing too flash but for the size and price it did ok today. good load capacity, seems about in line with a Diawa Excellor, but i prefered the handles on this one, better grip and load power.... but i dont know that much either. 
Casts well and took on the rats today, no fault besides what i did to it!

When i get more experience with the big fish, i will buy a nice rod..... oh yeah, and when i know how to land the yak properly!!!!! :twisted:

Cheers,


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## dru (Dec 13, 2008)

gra said:


> This is the reason it's better to use slightly lower-modulus graphite rods on yaks. As suggested by Ranger, bruising or scratching gaphite changes the torsional behaviour of the blank and completely without warning it can break under load. Having said that, it may be fine, you won't know until it breaks. Rod varnish won't do anything except make you feel better. Sorry mate.
> 
> Regards, Gra.


Gra

I always value you input on these matters. This topic is bringing out some more thoughts from me. I tend to watch my reels carefully but trash my rods (sorry). SO

a) when looking for a new rod, how do I tell slightly lower modulus graphite from something really brittle?
b) So scratches cant be repaired, can the eyes, more specifically the rop tip eye be replaced?


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## Ranger (May 31, 2008)

dru said:


> a) when looking for a new rod, how do I tell slightly lower modulus graphite from something really brittle?
> b) So scratches cant be repaired, can the eyes, more specifically the rop tip eye be replaced?


a) From the rating on the rod. IM6, IM7, IM8. IM stands for "internal modulus" and the higher the number the greater the graphite content. I've also noticed the more expensive blanks seem to be of a much higher quality and much more durable, so also consider this when looking at a purchase, as it doesn't always save you a few bucks to buy cheaper.

b) The eyes can be repaired/replaced but if you break a tip, forget it. You've just created the new shorter version of ya rod with different characteristics. All you can do is glue a new eye tip on this newly shortened rod, and I know many people who have snapped a few inches off their rods. (Remember that when you next purchase a secondhand rod. Don't forget to put the tapemeasure on it first as I'm sure there's plenty out there which are a few inches shorter than they are meant to be).

I've had a couple of rods snap on me over the years for no apparent reason. I've taken them back to the tacklestore, who has contacted the rep and the rods have been replaced for me. It seems that the break can also provide an indication of whether the fault was a manufacturing flaw, or otherwise.

This is a good reason to find a reputable tacklestore and always deal with them. My tacklestore knows me well, they know the quality of gear I purchase, and they know that I look after my gear. They pass this info back to the reps, who are then much more likely to come to the party for you.

Even though I don't use them myself, I also know that GLoomis is one company who provide a guarantee of sorts. If you break a Loomis rod, you'll get a replacement for a maximum of $150. In my eyes, when we are purchasing $400-800 rods, that's quite a swaying factor.

I'm still pretty new to this whole kayaking thing, so even though I have a very pretty collection of Black Diamonds and Millerods, I keep them for the boat and for landbased. I'm actually using a few Ian Miller Raiders on the kayak, for fear of trashing my best rods, as I know that even though the Raiders are heavy and cumbersone by comparison, the Raiders are very tough and durable rods while I gain more experience in the kayak. And if the worst does ever happen, I'd rather break a $100 rod than a $500 rod.

Oh, and whenever I need to lend out a rod to a newby, then I have a couple of cheap Shimano Catana/Sienna combos I keep just for visitors.


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Buy a Nitro - no questions asked insurance inc in the price - dont like your scratches - pay 60 bucks and replace that section - no probs. 

I bought mine because of the many RMs and SMs Ive encountered over time !!!


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## Levi (Nov 24, 2008)

Thanks all,

i will check the modulus on my rod, though realistially, if it survives the next big load up, it will be proven a tough little cookie!!!

Cheeerz,

Levi


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## Levi (Nov 24, 2008)

The rod survived, fully loaded up after being dragged under yak, bent at 90 degrees over rocks in the surf.....

Very happy indeed, it is a tough one.

The rod finish helped make the scratches less obvious, nothing more than helping me feel less guilty......


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