# Kayaking trip through the NT - Part 6, the Final Chapter



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

*Part 6
Final days in Paradise. *

As I left the Limmen/Cox camp, I had that sinking feeling knowing the rolling adventure I'd been lucky enough to be a part of would soon be coming to an end. Rather than dwelling on the disappointment of returning to the big smoke, I planned to keep the action running right until such time the car was packed and I waved the Australian bush goodbye. Doing this meant jumping back into the rivers and I had just two remaining to consider, the Towns and the Roper. The Towns is popular with the tinnie brigade as a dedicated boat ramp found down a new piece of National Parks' road gives reach to fine tidal water. I last paddled the Towns in 1999 and didn't get much except undue harassment from the resident saurians. When I pulled up at the Towns this year the place was deserted but knowing how heavily fished it can be sent me away without even allowing a launch for 'old-times' sake. Thus, my river of choice became The Roper.

The Roper is a huge, spring-fed system offering endless opportunity to wet a line. Its tidal limit is found at the wide Roper Bar causeway meaning anglers have access and clear choice between two distinct environments. If targeting below the causeway, it is important to note that large tidal movements can create havoc and stress for paddlers as I discovered in 1999 and 2001. Another thing to be understand is that being such an extensive river to navigate, finding fish can sometimes be a difficult and time-consuming exercise. During my initial exploration of the Roper I was lucky enough to stumble across a pair of rocks in the current where the barra congregated, similar to the islands around the Limmen/Cox junction. On a fast rising tide, those rocks proved very productive.









I took this photo (scanned) back in October 1999 but the rocks appear the same today. When I pulled up on the bank with the aim of fishing them this year, I noticed the tide was ebbing meaning a long wait until morning before it turned. Not keen to do that, I pursued my backup plan of delving into the 'fresh', something I'd never attempted but had meticulously prepared for in the weeks prior to departure. To understand the extent of what this involved, it meant studying the land (via Google Earth / topographic charts) and printing out a 60km relevant section of river (averaging a 4.8km 'eye altitude') extending from the causeway. With 20 x A4 colour pages to peruse, prospective tracks veering off the main road into impending launch sites were noted and given a GPS waypoint. My primary goal was to find another part of Oz where few fishermen roamed and hopefully, the long hours spent preparing my data would allow me to achieve this. The exploration of the Roper's fresh would be the _final _stage of my NT adventure.









Logically, one can stay at Roper Bar and launch easily upstream into the fresh. For me that seemed too simplistic and needed more of a challenge. A track I found on GE took me to this attractive piece of water 16km upstream of the bar. On the Monday I arrived here the place was suffering the effects of a weekend blackfella's shindig and covered in empty VB cans and other trash. I spent 20 minutes cleaning up before even considering taking this photo. In a way I was lucky getting there when I did - would've been interesting driving into a _'corrobeeree'_ in full swing!

One minor problem I didn't foresee while staying here, involved the consortium of rocks in the background of the photo. Under intense sunlight they became super-baked and didn't really cool until 10.30pm each night. With the afternoon breeze fanning the oppressive heat towards camp, it felt like I was living inside a furnace.









Viewed directly upstream from camp is this rather alluring piece of river. This section runs for about 2.5km before reaching a soft rapid and another pool. I trolled the length of it but only managed a few small sooty grunter.









The part of the Roper I set upon is by no means uninhabited by man but it is possible to escape into places like this pristine region where only paddle craft can access. Rapids divide the pools but unlike those at 'River X' which can stretch for hundreds of metres and involve a frustrating cross country trek, the Ropers' were more user-friendly. Much of the water I navigated was filled with dead trees uprooted from the same floods which swamped Katherine some years back. The possibilities for barra in these conditions were endless and several days could be spent flicking lures to countless opportunities. I managed to connect to a few on the troll but all managed to either throw the hooks or wrap me around the sunken limbs and escape. I was a little hesitant at times to leave the lure out because of the snags and if anyone came through there in the future, I'd recommend taking a good supply of hard plastic - especially if the bite was fast.









On my upstream journey of discovery I came across numerous places where the Roper split into separate flows, adding variety and interest to the trek. The water was clean and clear, and perfect for drinking. Strangely, the Roper became the only river I paddled that wasn't cursed by the traditional fly swarm despite the banks often being overrun by cattle. Funnily, this didn't bother me one bit!









Naturally, the dominant fish of the pools and tributaries became the familiar sooty grunter. This narrow side-creek was choked with solid grunter that committed suicide on the lure. If one fish happened to drop the hooks, another would quickly rush in to fill its place.









I found the Kokoda McDiver lure deadly on the grunter. The fish here formed part of the haul from the above creek. The process involved in catching them was pretty simple - flick the lure onto the rapid, wind with the current and watch a dozen or so eager fish give chase!









This set of rapids upstream was the largest I came to on the day and became my turnaround point. It also became the place I suffered my worst injury since leaving Sydney. Walking barefoot across a wide patch of dry rocks to investigate above the rapid, I managed to kick my middle toe pushing the nail almost back to the ankle. As expected the pain was extreme, the blood thick and language foul. Mobility from that moment on presented a difficulty and I didn't think I'd be able to accomplish another day of rapid-bashing. I _did _take a photo of the bloodied toe which is available by special request only (not for the squeamish!)









Not to disappoint, I discovered the deeper of the Roper's pools embraced the ubiquitous bull shark. Two of them savaged one of the sootys on the line with a third turning up for leftovers. One particular pool I explored fascinated me because of an unusual underwater plant growing around an extensive string of bubbles rising from the bottom. While staring into the water towards them, the little bully above picked up the lure on the 10lb mono and proceeded to drag me around the river before finally giving in.









I don't like lifting bullies into the yak and came to shore to get this one on camera and remove the hooks. The other sharks that savaged the sooty were considerable larger than this fella and would have given an even greater tussle on the light line. Live baiting could have accounted for a lot more fish but I didn't have the gear or rigs at the time.









These small crocs were common in the river and very tame. With the amount of sharks about, I often wondered whether they formed part of their diet.









Here's a bigger Roper freshie giving a rare toothy pose for the camera. During the day these more mature animals often entered the water in dramatic fashion as they catapulted the bank to safety. After gaining immense confidence around crocs in the weeks away, I hardly flinched when this happened. I didn't notice any monster salties about but wouldn't discount the fact that there might be some present and recommend anyone paddling this stretch of river to be armed.

*What happened next?*
That night around camp following a fun day on the water, I debated on leaving the next morning or heading downriver for a new adventure. Keen as I was to explore, my damaged toe made it painful to walk even with shoes on and I didn't think I'd be able to get the yak through the more difficult areas. Aside from obvious incapacitation, I actually felt exhausted from the past physical weeks and sensed it an ideal time to escape the bush. With that thought in mind, I began packing for imminent departure.









I couldn't believe I'd soon be giving up the front seat of the Swift for a real bed again. I don't normally sleep in a tent in the Gulf, finding the car much more comfortable and safer from night stalkers and serial killers. To date, I've never been harassed by man or beast while bunking down like this.

During the final morning I was unsurprisingly miserable about leaving. Under a chorale of vibrant birdsong I set the camera to 'movie mode' and recorded my farewell to the Gulf to the Seekers' _When the stars begin to Fall_. I don't know why, but once the track on the tape finished I became heavily emotional and made a second recording - to _Kumbaya_&#8230; (Okay, now I _was _being silly!).

I still had things planned before reaching the Stuart Highway and that involved locating the waypoints for the remaining tracks I'd marked out on the maps and following them to the river. What I discovered however, was that every track I came to went through a gate onto private property. For anyone thinking of blazing the Roper between Elsey National Park and the place on the river where I stayed, I can confidently say that there is no public access to the water without the owner's permission. If people wish to visit the campsite I found, the track turnoff can be picked up at: 14°41' 43.7"S, 134°22' 20.35"E. A word of warning however - avoid calling in on weekends when the natives run wild!









A scanned picture from an earlier trip with me and some 'wild' natives in the NT bush near Borroloola - I find assimilation is the key to understanding different cultures!

*Conclusion:*
I suppose that was the end of things for my 2008 'Tour of Duty' in the Gulf. Once again I conquered the many difficult challenges to make the trip a success and proved how careful planning, confidence and paying attention to detail can get me in and out safely. Will I ever go back? I think so. Each journey provides me with something special and unique that can't easily be ignored. Whether it's the fishing, scenery, roads or wildlife, there's always certain delight to be had in the Gulf. The place can be rough and dangerous and physically draining but remembering two very important things will get you by - humans are tough by nature, and a _lot _smarter than crocs. If you think we're not and you choose to go, then you'll probably end up a foolish statistic.

*Here's a few interesting facts and figures for the trip:*

•	I slept 37 of the 39 nights away in the front seat of my car, the other two taking place in the tent on River X.
•	I carried enough food items to last 6 weeks and never had to restock except for some soft drink and a cake of soap at Borroloola. Seafood supplements most meals and if I ever want a duck, pigeon or a pheasant to change the menu, I'll take the rifle and get one. Roughly a fifth of the food I carried was never eaten and brought back. 
•	Accommodation was cheap, and only tallied $74 for 39 days. 
•	Fuel came to $937; total kilometres travelled were 7,963; fuel consumption an impressive 38.6 mpg (7.37L/100); highest cost of ULP was $2.20 a litre at Roper Bar. 
•	Average daily maximum temperature was 37C. The hottest day experienced was around Bourke while coming home when the mercury topped 39.5C and the thermo fan decided to fall apart. For the remaining drive to Sydney, I had to run the heater on full to prevent the engine boiling. I don't have air-con.
•	Lowest evening temperatures bottomed out to 13C, and ranged to 26C. Interestingly, the coldest night I have ever encountered in the Gulf was an unseasonal 5.8C on 4/9/04 at River X.
•	Total bodily injuries for the journey amassed to a scratched foot and the toe I damaged in the Roper River. That was fortunate, as my medical kit comprising 6 bandaids and a pack of 'Panadols' wouldn't have gone far. By the way, I brought the entire 6 bandaids back home.
•	To entertain myself after dark I listened to a range of CD Audio books. One evening I fell asleep in the car while the CD was on and abruptly woke when the cabin filled with a squadron of warplanes!
•	Damage to the car came to a clapped-out thermo fan, some superficial scratches down the side, a broken cable-tie and two small screws shaken loose from the driving light brackets. The vehicle actually suffered from noisy CVs which were to be replaced on return. Following the battering over hundreds of kilometres of corrugations, the 'click click clicks' have entirely disappeared saving me lots of dollars.
•	The most successful lure I used was the Berkley 'Frenzy Medium Diver', followed closely by the Kokoda McDiver and the RMG Scorpion. Most fish were caught on 10lb mono, with 15lb the strongest I ever used.

_*P.S. Here are a few extra photos of the '08 trip that never made it onto earlier posts:
*_








_To minimise space in the car water is carried in these 10 litre bladders. When not required, they compress to almost nothing. This tip has been adopted by many people I've met on my travels._









_Looking upstream towards Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River, QLD. In the dry season the falls are dormant however in the wet, would be spectacular._









_Situated directly above Leichhardt Falls next to the road, the landowner has erected this meaningful sign. I stopped here to seek divine intervention and spiritual guidance&#8230; _









_Proof that I actually was in the NT!_









_I call this monolith 'Face Rock', an unusual feature I discovered while mountain climbing around River X. Do you recognise him?_









_I like catching reptiles and found this pretty bluetongue above the waterfalls at River X.
_









_A friendly turtle from River X. I was amazed how docile these guys were, having little fear from people and allowing themselves to be readily handled. _









_Building my 'bush' bathroom, complete with 'solar shower'. 
_








_Scenery around River X. 'Face Rock' is found at the top of the cliff. 
_








_Negotiating a 'swamp' in River X._









_This new type of signage has been erected around the Top End. Luckily I'd left my box of 'Black Labels' at home&#8230;_









_A giant Cycad palm at the Foelshe River. These majestic palms are extremely slow growing. One this high is probably over 400 years old._









_A remarkable bower-bird nest near the Foelshe River camp._









_Enjoying a morning cuppa at the Limmen River before setting off to catch more barra. Mornings at camp are very special times in the Gulf, peaceful with amazing bird life to appreciate._

I'd like to finish off 'Part 6, The Final Chapter' with an excerpt from a book I wrote following my return from the Gulf in 1999:

_'A modern-day caravan park in Dubbo provided 'free' after-hours accommodation for Rick's final night on the road. He wrote his diary in an open wooden cabana while watching the holidaymakers around him, trying hard to fathom the contrast in people's choice of travelling destinations. His penchant for the anomalous made him feel largely isolated. Several there caught his glance, quickly turning away when confronting a face seemingly troubled by a recent unsettling past. Yet focussing deeper, they would have noticed elation beneath the disconcertion. He moved from the tables and walked dreamily back to the car. The people of Dubbo probably never realised that such an incredible and amazing world survived so close to them, a land ruled by an order of terrifying reptiles known as the saurians, a place which time has remarkably forgotten for over 200 million years._

_On Friday 15th October 1999, Rick rejoined Sydney's vast cosmopolitan metropolis. He had achieved his dream and completed his personal challenge, and had an incredible story to tell.'_

This is _finally _the end. Many thanks to everybody who has been following the report.

Rick (aka Murd)

_For people recently tuning in, this trip can be followed from start via the following links:
_
*Into spiel*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20226#p217474
*Part 1: *
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20307#p218328
*Part 2:*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20536#p220440
*Part 3:*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20895#p224084
*Part 4:*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=21263#p228243
*Part 5:*
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=21682#p232418


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## zipper (Feb 27, 2008)

wow :shock:


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## Prawndog (Jan 9, 2008)

That was epic.

I take my hat off to you.

The next AKFF legend?

PD


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## BJM (Oct 5, 2008)

Inspirational is the only word I have at the moment.

I truly hope that you put pen to paper about this whole journey (not just the phisical journey either) I for one would jump at the chance to read the whole thing.

Ben


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## koich (Jul 25, 2007)

You're a deadset madman. You've got all sorts of issues Murd.

I would love to do something like this one day. Thanks for sharing it all, I was a bit worried you weren't going to make it out alive after some of the previous entries (mostly about charging salties, again, you have issues).


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## shiznic (May 14, 2008)

Thanks so much for sharing this great adventure it has been a pleasure and inspires no end.


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## Davey G (Jan 15, 2006)

double wow... :shock: 8)


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## redman (Jun 5, 2008)

The end so soon.............. :x :x :x :x . Looking forward to the next trip


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## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

I know (and hate) that feeling when a trip comes to and end all too well.
Felt a bit that way as I read through this final chapter of this years adventures Rick.
You must spend 11 months a year champing at the bit I reckon.
The Roper sure looks a magic place, never seen any pics from the fresh side of it before. All those snags :shock: :shock:


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## mcbigg (Jul 14, 2007)

Wow to the power of wow!

Have thoroughly enjoyed your reports and pics. Thanks for sharing the beauty of a part of the world the few of us will get to see.

Nice work.


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## Grantos (Jan 28, 2008)

Well done Rick.

A quality read from start to finish, and arguably the best account of a Top End adventure I've ever read!

I suppose knowing that you can always return helps put things into perspective for you (and us). ;-)

Thanks again for sharing with us mere mortals.


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## garmac (Oct 5, 2008)

murd said:


> *Part 6
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Revo (Aug 3, 2008)

Many thanks Rick.  I've really enjoyed reading your reports. Through your words and pics, I feel as if I've been there to experience it and see it with my own eyes!


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## Scruffy (Nov 9, 2008)

Thank you Rick,Your journey through life is an inspiration to us mere mortals.I would not be able to do what you have done.I have seen those big crocs up close and personal.When you look them in the eye you can see that you are on the menu for lunch.The large females can jump six feet straight up in the air.Looking forward to reading about your next adventure. Good luck into the future.
Cheers,
Terry.


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## craig450 (May 11, 2007)

I just went through all 6 episodes and to say im impressed is a massive understatement.
That has to be the best fishing story i have ever read and it has left me wanting more!!! 8)

Thanks for sharing in such detail and im looking forward to the next one already.

Seriously, you have to write a book about your journeys, i would jump at the chance to read such a book 8)

Well done Murd.


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## Zed (Sep 18, 2006)

Just fantastic, murd!

How far up were those bulls from true saltwater access? That is plain amazing.


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## Kez (Nov 5, 2008)

Living the life mate! Awesome adventure! I think it would have been a great documenty if you had a camera crew with you. I will definately watch it! You could probably get some Television sponsors and do it all again for the Viewers across australia (and perhaps international).

Awesome stuff!

Cheers (with a canof VB)


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## YakCult (Nov 4, 2008)

A truly incredible report from the MASTER!!!
You were sorry it ended - so are we, the readers!!!
I was looking forward to each one......
The effort put into the photography is much appreciated, too!!
A great presentation, Rick......
Many thanks for the considerable work required to assemble it all !


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## grinner (May 15, 2008)

fantastic read merd, as good as bushtucker man my favourite video, great stuff 
cheers pete


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## L3GACY (Sep 2, 2007)

YakCult said:


> A truly incredible report from the MASTER!!!
> You were sorry it ended - so are we, the readers!!!
> I was looking forward to each one......
> The effort put into the photography is much appreciated, too!!
> ...


Bruce summed up my feelings well. Thanks murd.


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## salmonsnature (Apr 24, 2008)

As zipper said,, WOW :shock:


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## madkeensam (Jul 27, 2008)

I only have one word...........................Jelousy :twisted:


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## reverend1 (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks.
Very well done mate.


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Rick without doubt your adventure has been one of the best reads in 3 years visiting the forum, thank you


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## noeskimo (Oct 20, 2008)

rick.

you may find that you could make some dough, and pay for your next trip by guiding some willing yak fishermen and women down river x?

.


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## RedPhoenix (Jun 13, 2006)

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

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## noeskimo (Oct 20, 2008)

well said red. awesome stuff. a trip dreams are made of.

moreton bay will do me for a while though.....lol

.


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## Duane (Oct 20, 2007)

Thanks Rick

It's good to see someone out having an uncomplicated adventure without all the trappings from the glossy magazines.

Though the car seat would have killed my back after one night!

One question, how do you keep the beer cold?


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## josho (Nov 3, 2007)

very impressive

josho


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## hoges007 (Dec 6, 2007)

Great report(s) Rick - thanks for sharing the experiences of your trip.

Couple of the things from the last report that are stuck in my mind: 
1) 7,000+ kms in a swift through outback roads (impressive) - classic that the CVs have run themselves smooth 
2) $74 for accomodation for 39 nights - i recently did a trip through SA & NT and the accomodation costs killed me (hard to sleep in a car with a pregnant wife & 2 yo child though!).

Awesome photo's too - well done.


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## Flump (Apr 17, 2006)

G'day Rick,

Just been back through and reread all the parts of the amazing story you have just told us. I just want to say thanks for sharing what must have been a great adventure and putting in the huge amount of time it must have taken to put these reports together. The photos and words tell a fantastic tale of daring, wildlife, fishing, Australian history and scenery but also give a glimpse of the mindset and detail needed to survive in such a remote and beautiful place. Knowing that you went there and did what you did in a Suzuki Swift makes it all the more amazing.

How's the toe coming along...not too badly damaged I hope.

Cheers.....Nick


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## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

Time for a reply I suppose. 

Yes, it _was _a mammoth effort putting the 6 parts together. Through it I now understand Photobucket and Picassa quite well (many thanks to the chap on the Forum who told me about Picassa) and have learnt to 'save' before the Forum locks you out and an hour's work is lost! :evil: Many night-shifts at work (Star City Casino) were spent typing away, cutting and pasting, theasaurising (is that a word?) and editing to get out the finished product out within the 2-week intervals. A number of my work colleagues (non-yakkers) have shown interest and also followed this trip on the AKFF as it's quite a talking point each year when I set off into the bush to chase my dreams.

Sifting through over 500 photos was an effort. There are still many which could have made it but I had to consider only those relevant to the topic. Sorry I was nearly always shirtless for the fishing snaps but there is a reason for that - it saves on washing smelly sweat-soaked tops. Plus, the material and colour tends to attract the little bushflies.



> Koich: I was a bit worried you weren't going to make it out alive after some of the previous entries (mostly about charging salties, again, you have issues.


The '08 Trip in my mind was mellow in regard to what has happened during some of the other trips (especially 1999). Maybe I have issues, but I never do anything which could be fatal. For example, I'm happy to grab the odd python or two for a photo but wont risk the same with a poisonous species. Crocs can cause concern but they are just big, oversized goannas. Stand up to them and they always run away.



> McBigg: Thanks for sharing the beauty of a part of the world the few of us will get to see.


What I have shown here is that anyone can do this trip. I do it in a Suzuki Swift so don't think you need the most expensive 4x4 to get there and back. And, we all have kayaks. It is not out of reach.



> Scruffy: When you look them in the eye you can see that you are on the menu for lunch


Scruffy, I have had monster crocs coming for me in the yak and clearly seen that look in their eyes when you know you are on their menu. Their eyes are strangely hypnotic and can easily put you into a trance.



> Kez: I think it would have been a great documentary if you had a camera crew with you. I will definitely watch it! You could probably get some Television sponsors and do it all again for the Viewers across Australia (and perhaps international).


It _would _make a great doco however, the fear lies that the places I visit would be exploited by tour companies, National Parks, and other groups wanting a quick buck. Since 1999 the Gulf hasn't really changed except for the creation of the Limmen National Park and a few repairs to the roads. That's what makes it so appealing. Look what happened to Cape York - when I first went through there in 1978 the place was wild and free but now it's totally commercialised - all that's missing is a Maccas!



> Occy: Of all the incredible and dangerous things that happened (attacks by rogue crocs and drunk black fellas) the one that put a chil down my spine was the stubbed toe. :shock: Poor little pet. ;-) How's it going? :lol:


The toe is still a little delicate. I have a third of a new nail now but if I bump it on anything it still pains me (smartarse! :twisted: )



> Duane:Though the car seat would have killed my back after one night! One question, how do you keep the beer cold?


Duane, I have found that I sleep better on the front seat on the Swift than in my bed at home. Because the back/spine is slightly elevated there is no pressure/tension on the body and you wake up every morning feeling like a million dollars. My current plan is to somehow attach a car seat to the bed at home so I have those continued great sleeps without back pain. 
Keeping things cold doesn't happen on my trips. Once the ice has gone its back to warm coke and cordial. I try to put my drinks out at night to chill but if the nights are warm, they wont. Warm coke isn't too bad but its a bit gassy. I only carry enough beer for the first week when i have ice as unlike warm coke, I hate warm beer!



> Hoges007: 7,000+ kms in a swift through outback roads (impressive) - classic that the CVs have run themselves smooth


Hoges, the Swift is completely stock standard except for driving lights, raised suspension and stiffer gas shocks and struts. I also run 'Toyo offroad tyres for the harsh consitions (in the photo of the car near that 'GOD IS' sign, you can see the chunkier tread). I've developed several mods to combat the dust and that was pumping in a few cans of Selleys 'expanding filler' down through the chassis and under panels to stop the dirt sucking in - works perfectly, and i can keep the windows down all the time (which I have to seeing I don't have air con.) I also use a 'pre-filter' arrangement on the air cleaner cartridge. Again, my own mod and very effective. I've considered installing a snorkel but it might look a bit dicky around town!

Thanks again for the very positive comments - appreciate them 100%! Now, can I please get back to fishing!

Cheers,
Rick


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## wopfish (Dec 4, 2006)

Bloody fantastic Rick - really appreciate all the effort to post all that you have done - and most of all to share your adventure with us. We shouldnt let fear govern the way we live and as a species we can be extremely resourcefull and accomplish great if only we believed in ourselves a bit more ( I struggle with my own demons at times ) but still try and push on through and your example is a great inspiration to me and I'm sure all of us on the forum, keep it up and I look forward to your next installment

Cheers

Woppie


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## RedPhoenix (Jun 13, 2006)

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

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