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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

I exaggerated with the $20, I think they only charge $15 if no parts involved.


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## ArWeTherYet (Mar 25, 2007)

Pay someone to service it, you cant complain about $15. I usually pay 3 times that amount plus parts and I'm pretty good at servicing, repairing most reels myself, but not those precision spin reels, if you dont do it right and use the correct lube, they never work the same. There is just too many small parts that you can lose or put in the wrong place.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

Ok, before you do anything, how does it feel? I've serviced my 4000 and though it's not too hard, there are shortcuts you can take if it's not in need of a complete overhaul.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

More than likely that's the line roller bearing - it's usually the first thing to go. If it's quiet when there's no line running through the roller then that'll be it. If so, unscrew the roller and have a look at the bearing. There is a couple of pieces in there so try to keep it all assembled. If the bearing is rusted it'll need replacing otherwise drop a bit of oil in and close it back up.
If that's not it, you can start disassembling the reel. There is a cover over the part of the reel where the stem meets the main body. There is a screw on the other side of the reel stem which secures it. Took me bloody ages to notice that! Nothing is going to go flying from the reel unless you take the anti-reverse apart. Don't take the anti-reverse apart. Apply grease to the main gear and wind the reel to spread grease around. The handle is also bearing-supported so grease those too. It's also a good idea to get a bit of grease into the bail arm return mechanism on the side of the rotor but these can be a fiddle to put back together so if you can squeeze some in without completely disassembling them that's preferable. 
While you're at it, pull the drag washers out and have a look at them. They're felt and can disintegrate over time.

General tips - do the service over a white towel, it makes it much easier to find pieces that drop.lay things like screws and parts out in lines in the order you take them off, that way you can replace them in reverse order. Keep the schematic handy or if you no longer have it, download it off the net. It makes reassembling things like the bail roller much easier.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## avayak (May 23, 2007)

Scater, has some great advice there.
To add to this I have a couple of general tips.
Download the schematic from the Shimanofish website and print it out on an A3 sheet. You will get a much better view of the parts which can help with orientation.
Take your time pulling it apart.
Disassemble the reel in sections at a time.
Take a photo of the parts in there assembled position.
Lay out the parts in a line similar to the schematic in the correct orientation and take a photo.
Keep the parts from each section in a separate take away container. Keep an eye on the shims on the main gear as its easy to lose them washing the parts.

I use metho to wash parts since it is fairly mild and dries off. It takes a bit of extra scrubbing with a small paint brush.
Tip the old washings in a bowl in case you have missed a small part.
If the bearings are free I don't wash them as it tends to move grit around and make them worse. A wipe with tissue and a light oil will do.
Daiwa make a Real4 grease that is light and can be used on gears and drag washers. It gives a really smooth drag.
Never use grease anywhere near the anti-reverse, oil only otherwise it will stick into the free position, randomly!
Assembly willbe easier with the photos.
Good luck.


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## ArWeTherYet (Mar 25, 2007)

Scater is correct with the roller bearing, they rust out all the time. Cheaper reels dont have ball bearings in the roller guide, so less of an issue, but not as smooth. You can buy ceramic ball bearing pretty cheaply to replace the standard stainless ones and they last for ages.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## robsea (Apr 7, 2010)

Try this. If i am not mistaken there is a series of them.


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## Slazmo (Oct 18, 2010)

avayak said:


> Download the schematic from the Shimanofish website and print it out on an A3 sheet. You will get a much better view of the parts which can help with orientation.


Yes good idea - but be warned - that shimano can change their parts without even a change to the schematic.



avayak said:


> Disassemble the reel in sections at a time.


 When you pull a reel apart the whole thing comes apart - the Stradic's are possibly the easiest reel to do in one sitting.[/quote]



avayak said:


> I use metho to wash parts since it is fairly mild and dries off. It takes a bit of extra scrubbing with a small paint brush.


 Metho doesnt break down grease and oil - it only lifts it and makes a mess - also with the brush - make sure the bristles dont break off into parts eg: bearings.



avayak said:


> If the bearings are free I don't wash them as it tends to move grit around and make them worse. A wipe with tissue and a light oil will do.


 Always clean and grease bearings - remove their sheild clips - degrease with Turps & in a ultrasonic cleaner and get all the old grease & oil out. Replace with a small amount of good quality low viscosity grease and oil mix. Bearings are the most costly part of any reel - look after these things like they were high octane flubber!



avayak said:


> Daiwa make a Real4 grease that is light and can be used on gears and drag washers.


 Use Inox MX6 or Mercury 2-4-C grease and Inox oil with Teflon - much better products than any reel manufacturers grease.



ArWeTherYet said:


> You can buy ceramic ball bearing pretty cheaply to replace the standard stainless ones and they last for ages


 - Ceramic bearings cheaply? Where mate - I'll buy them all if thats the case! Ceramic arent as cheap as stainless - this due to the fact they are harder to make, have higher tolerances and are just rarer than Stainless or 316 bearings (Hybrid ceramic are cheaper to buy in the larger sizes no doubt) - hybrid ceramic are coming down in price slowly however still for parts like rotor bearing supports or spool bearings for hyper customs or those that want to get a extra 2 meters from a cast using 1gr lure, 2lb line and a Laberto Pixi.

I have 4 Stradic's either the FJ's or the Ci4 F's - these are possibly the most easiest reels to disassemble and put back together without too much fuss - the worm drive is random so there are no matching marks for reassembly or any other issues there like past reels. There is a proper way to apply grease - too much over the teeth of the drive and pinion is just a waste and will slow a reel down - mind you more grease the slower the reel and the more protected it will be. I use Inox MX8 Teflon grease in my bearings due to the fact that this is smooth stuff and it protects the bearings from water intrusion and keeps them happy! I have also shimmed my reels bearings so that there is no slop in the handles or rotor's - I bought one Stradic 4000 Ci4 that was horrendous to start and now its just 'smooth'.`

What I say is 99% of the job is preperation - 1% is application - do things right and everything will work out in the end.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

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## spottymac (Aug 29, 2005)

Alan Tani is the man for Reel Servicing Tutorials. 
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=914.0


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

spottymac said:


> Alan Tani is the man for Reel Servicing Tutorials.
> http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=914.0


Thanks for that spottymac, best pictorial I've seen!

I was feeling infallible after the stradic so got stuck into my quantum cabo baitcaster. I finished one screw in front when I was done! ;-) Luckily it was only a matter of removing the spool to put it back in and spool removal doesn't require tools on these reels.


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