# do you need more than 20lb line when fishing from a kayak?



## JW (Jul 31, 2006)

Hi All

I have been thinking about the following question for a while, and thought I would throw it out there for discussion:

Can I realistically put any more hurt on a fish from a kayak by using 30lb line instead of 20lb? Would this be different in an open water situation V's over reef/river with snags?

Assuming reels (quality and line capacity), rods, knots, leaders, are fit for purpose.

I am not so sure I would be able to 'use' the extra 10lb breaking strain, given that it is often a challenge to break off a snag when using 20lb gear.

What do you think?

Cheers.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

It's a strange thing that, you have line of an adequate strength and you get a fish that's taking more line than you want so you slow it down by thumbing/putting your hand on the spool. What strength line do you need then?

Assume a piece of string can lift a brick off the ground if you lift slowly and smoothly. If you try lifting the same brick off the ground really fast that same string will break.


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

There are plenty of fish (in various situations regarding bust-off structure), of sufficient weight and power, that require far greater line strength than 20 lb.

Another factor is how long do you want to be engaged in this fight (in the salt and estuaries, the longer the fight the greater generally the risk of being sharked). We all read of the 15 kg jewie caught on 10 lb line, but for everyone there would have to be several escapes because the line broke, or was snapped on structure.


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## Safa (Aug 4, 2006)

20 Pounds is more than enough in my opinion and have seen big fish close to 30kg being being caught and landed .
Some you may loose by being reefed etc but is it not about the challenge ,the fight the satisfaction of catch something instead of just skull dragging everything in that has no chance,i say make it a fair fight instead .
Here's the question then (Is shooting a wild animal ie lion,buck or anything a challenge if its in a enclosed area and has no chance ) .
Id love to see some of these so called 'Hunters' that shoot Lions from the back of a ute in a fenced area have the tables turned and really have to hunt on foot in the bush .....................maybe the hunter becomes the HUNTED .


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## Squidley (May 8, 2010)

I get the impression the "excess" breaking strain is often for the extra abrasion resistance. 15 lb is overkill for how hard a snook will fight but you'll get bitten off a lot below 10 lb. I recall a member saying he wouldn't go heavier than 30 lb on a jayak so he could safely break his line at the snag instead of cutting at the surface.


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## keza (Mar 6, 2007)

Depends what fish you are chasing.
If you are after something that runs for the horizon then light is fine but if you are chasing something like kingfish that heads straight for the bottom then you need more.
I have been done on 60lb, it's hard to stop them getting to the reef in a kayak.
I've cut back to 40lb now because getting snagged with 60 is no fun.


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Be interesting to see the King's opinion (given we have Clive's).


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## Foxxy (May 12, 2008)

I am no expert but the only tuna I have ever hooked busted off 15 lb braid on a good reel and I am sure it would have spooled me even if the drag was left where it was and it didn't but me off. Maybe the pros out there could have tracked him down but I'm fishing 30 lb until I get a few under my belt and can sleep at night with loosing an awesome fish!


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

Keep in mind that by increasing g the breaking strain of the line you might be making something else the weakest link. Don't be surprised when you still lose fish to opened split rings or trebles torn out of plastic. There'll always be sethingyou can't land.


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## MrX (Feb 7, 2008)

What are you trying to catch JW?

20lb would be overkill on snook, or even snapper. Fine for clean fighting tuna. Too light if you are live baiting for kings and cobia though.

As for breaking snagged lines, it depends. Hobie pedals allow you to break 50lb line off the bottom. i find it a challenge to break 20lb on my paddle kayak

I only ever use over 30lb for abrasion resistance on the leader. Couldn't imagine putting enough pressure on a fish to break more than that from a kayak.


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## cheaterparts (Jul 3, 2010)

MrX said:


> What are you trying to catch JW?
> 20lb would be overkill on snook, or even snapper.


not only what are you trying to catch but where do you have any tide flows

ie around my happy hunting grounds Port Phillip Bay most snapper can be stoped with 10 lb braid even lighter - move over to Westernport and 20 lb is needed and along the Western Channel most dont drop under 30 lb line but of cause just pulling a 16 - 24 oz sinker in takes it own strain

then there are the different ways that these places are fished PPB with next to no tide flow can easy be drifted or at anchor the fish dont have the advantage of the tide assist

Westerport where tide flows are quite offen 6 kph in gental areas and well over 8 kph in stonger spots drifting is out of the question and at anchor any fish and even the bait pulls hard
you cant even drop the anchor with a float to chase the fish as most floats will get pulled downunder the water , meaning that you have to come back on slack tide to get the anchor

so in answer sometimes you may need to use more than 20 lb line it depends on both the species and conditions you fish


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## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

I've definately felt that 30lb mainline has helped me on occasion and I know that up to 80lb leader has.
When pulling barra or jacks out of the snags or coral trout off the reef, the ability to put the hurt on helps your chances.
Having said that, I use 10-15lb mainline for almost everything in the last few years, from trout and greyling to murray cod and barra.


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## JW (Jul 31, 2006)

Thanks for the replies

My main reason for asking the question was that I am taking the family up the east coast for a 14 week camping holiday next winter. Since we have made this decision all I have been able to think about is all the fish I could catch and what gear I needed before we left. I have plenty of gear from 20lb down, but nothing above that.

I want to catch everything from barra, jacks, mackerel, longtail tuna, kingfish, reef fish, etc. Most of which I have caught before, but not from a kayak, as most of my 12 years of kayak fishing has been in Vic.

This got me thinking where the line was&#8230;..the line where you simply cannot put any more hurt on a fish by upsizing your gear, because of the limitations of a kayak:
•	Getting towed in open water
•	Locking you drag, but the kayak gets dragged towards a snag by a large fish.
•	Getting enough leverage to keep a kingie from busting you off on a reef.

I don't know the answers.

I did the lap around Australia with my wife about 15 years ago and have always regretted not taking a kayak, and being a tight ass and not buying the gear I needed to fish effectively. I still caught heaps of awesome fish, but this time I want to do it from a kayak with the right gear.

It sounds like a good 30lb outfit might be a good addition to the tackle collection, especially after looking at the new Sol (size 4000) today which now has mag seal.
Cheers


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

JW said:


> Thanks for the replies
> 
> I have plenty of gear from 20lb down, but nothing above that.
> 
> ...


30 lb is a good start.

There are answers though, and you can have input into what the fish does and doesn't do, even when it is express train variety. My comments are based on a learning curve via Paulo's and Sprocket's advice, and relate to longtail tuna fishing. These are clean fighters for sure, but can wear you out or break light gear. Via the following techniques using 30 lb braid/FC and up to 40 lb mono, I have reduced my times to land an 'average' longtail (about 12 kg) from an hour to as little as 8 minutes.

•	Getting towed in open water -  You can put the fish out to the side, so it doesn't tow you. This makes it work much harder and wears it down more quickly.

•	Locking you drag, but the kayak gets dragged towards a snag by a large fish. -  True, but higher drag settings, and pre-loaded high strike drag settings reduce this (careful...you are also increasing the risk of a capsize!)

•	Getting enough leverage to keep a kingie from busting you off on a reef. - no experience with big kings, but I have heard of massive line strengths and drags to stop them (capsize risk again), through to opening the bail and confusing them (Wrassemagnet's idea), or with a Hobie, pedaling off into open water, and then fighting them.

A longish rod with quick action then real power is also something I have found that aids control, while giving you that vital shock absorbing for the strike and any sudden runs. (I use a 7'2" Ugly Stick Bluewater in the 8 - 15 kg range - IMO this provides vastly superior control to the 6 - 10 kg Uglies I _was_ using.


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## JW (Jul 31, 2006)

Thanks Kyakone


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