# Can a 2-5kg rod take 5 kilos of drag?



## kayakity-yak (May 31, 2007)

Sounds like a very stupid question and it probably is. I just dont know if the line rating of the rod is given based on the angler _not_ using drag equal to the breaking strain of the line (as is typically done. 1/4 - 1/2 of the breaking strain seems to be the norm). I look at the bend in my rod with just 2kgs of drag (I use scales) and it looks pretty nasty. I always get the feeling that if I set the drag any tighter than 2.5kgs the things going to snap, especially my graphites. Can you push it all the way to 5?


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## tryto2fish (Nov 14, 2008)

you can try and definetly do not try to stick the rod too high to get there :lol:


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## Donutslayer (Jun 9, 2007)

No


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## craig51063 (May 30, 2008)

hi mate 
iwould have thought that a 5kg rod could handle 5kg of drag ????
as thats what the rating is i thought ??????

recently i broke a rod 5 kg rod loaded with 8 lb line [ in a snag ] ... the manufactuer replaced the rod with NO dramas .
stating that the rod should NOT break with that sort or line and replaced the rod promptly .

craig


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## Peril (Sep 5, 2005)

Rod ratings are confusing. They are meant to be interpreted as the breaking strain of the line. However this is irrelevant as the rod should not be subjected to more strain than that provided by the drag setting, which should be about one third of the breaking strain. So you shouldn't set the drag of a 2-5kg rod to any more than 5/3kg. Some high-end jigging rods have a maximum drag rating. Would be good if all rods did


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## GoneFishn (May 17, 2007)

One thing to remember is that Braid is a lot stronger than Mono. You could get away with using 5kg mono on a 5kg rod but I would be careful of using braid rated at 5kg as it will more than likely break at 6-7kg. 
When testing and setting up drag weight on a rod you do not use a dead weight (weight attached to line hanging off the end of the rod) 
THE best way to set the drag is to get a good set of fish scales, put the proper line on your reel based on the rod and reel ratings and run it through the guides.
Now with the line through the guides and tip, run about 6 feet . Tie a good knot to the scale's hook and have someone hold it for you. Take a few paces away from the rod holding the rod at a 45 degree angle. Slowly lift the rod until the spool of the reel begins to spin against the drag. At the moment that the drag begins to move, check the reading on the scales. You should set the drag to about 25% of the breaking strength of the line...That is the best way.

I see a lot of people _testing _ our rods at work, one guy holding the rod and the other pulling the rod strait down. I cringe every time I see this as we have had heaps of rods broken in this way even the big game rods :shock: A 24kg outfit is not designed to lift a 100kg in a dead lift :twisted:


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## AJD (Jul 10, 2007)

I wouldn't run it that high with a graphite stick particularly if you've got a habit of high sticking to get fish out of snags etc. When they explode their bloody dangerous. :shock:


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## mattyoga (Mar 30, 2008)

its worth remembering that its not static forces but dynamic forces that will break the rod - sudden loading for example - in this case the drag will take more to get it going from standstill due to static friction (stiction) and the spool inertia - that one reason why drags are normally only set to 25% of line rating.

Also have to remember that the drag of the line through the water when fighting a fish will add to the reel drag so that it you had true 5kg line and you had 5 kg of drag, you have 5Kg + at the fish end of the line = pop busted off :? .cheers
matt


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## kayakity-yak (May 31, 2007)

Thanks guys, that answers everything plus more. I usually only set my drag to 1.5Kg, I've pushed it to 2Kgs a couple of times. I was thinking if you were getting desperate with a big fish heading for a reef whether you could crank it way up and give the fish a bit more stick.

Which leads me to another question - should you ever adjust the drag in run? I've been warned that in a blistering run not to touch the drag or *twang* will be the result. Is that true?

*Mattyoga *- The sudden loading on the drag was something I've always wondered about. Out of curiosity do higher end reels better account for this?

*GoneFishn* - I usually don't have a helper to set the drag because I do it home. I just prop the rod somewhere, set the drag roughly and pull out line straight up the rod with the scales and take the reading. I've measured it similar to your way too and compared it with mine and the difference is negligable.

*Peril* - That's just plain stupid that all rods don't give the max drag rating.
*
Craig* - I've always been suspicious of that line rating, I've used setups with 5 kilos of drag and it's a fair load. My gut told me not to push my shiny new rod that far. You see - my paranoia is there for a good reason!!


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## blaggon (Jan 14, 2008)

kayakity-yak said:


> Which leads me to another question - should you ever adjust the drag in run? I've been warned that in a blistering run not to touch the drag or *twang* will be the result. Is that true?


you can adjust the drag when fighting a fish, but during a blistering run if i wanted to add extra pressure, i do it by hand pressure on the spool. gives u extra control.


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## mattyoga (Mar 30, 2008)

ditto on the hand spooing - I like the feeling of control it gives.

The better drags are smoother and have lower stiction and of course the lighter spools have lower inertia.

I adjust my drag mid fight lots - will always back it off when the fish is close to the yak as theres a chance of high sticking when landing if it makes a final run, plus theres little shock absorbing so its easier to pull hooks at close range.

cheers
matt


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## LostNearBribie (Feb 18, 2008)

That is a good tip, backing off once close to the yak.
I have lost plenty close in.
Thanks.


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