# Light classes - braid or mono



## spooled1 (Sep 16, 2005)

Today I bought a samurai 2-4lb bream and bass rod and I'm verging on a Luvias but still contemplating a Ci4 or Patriarch.

Irrespective of what reel I end up with, in the ultra light classes what kind of differences would I expect between braid and say, a full spool of fluorocarbon. Sure, I might get a higher braid capacity but is it really going to be a big "feely" difference on the hookup or lure use if I go flouro?

Totally understand the difference on anything over 6kg and please forgive me because bream and bass certainly aren't my forte spooled up with 4lb whatever line.


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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

Another vote for braid. You'll notice a massive difference in sensitivity between the two. Provided the samurai doesn't have a super fast action, you'll get the best performance from braid. As far as the reel goes, be wary of the patriarch if you're fishing in the salt, the frame's magnesium. It's treated but the jury's still out on long-term corrosion resistance.


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## polylureosis (Jul 24, 2006)

spooled1 said:


> is it really going to be a big "feely" difference on the hookup or lure use if I go flouro?
> .


Bass = NO They usually don't hesitate with hitting the lure - You are going to feel it!
Bream = Yes and No. Sometime they smash it sometimes they are picky/soft.

What braid will give you is a great feel for the lure for the 99.9% of the time it's in the water when it's not connected to a fish.


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## ArWeTherYet (Mar 25, 2007)

2,3 or4lb Platypus Pretest will test your skills on Mono. Actually enjoy using it on the local squire for sumptin different. 
Haven't used fluro main line much, its usually less stretchy, stiffer, sinks better and is less seeable in clear water.
But if you want quantity, use braid with a fluro trace.


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## blueyak (Jan 20, 2009)

Flouro;

If you get a good flourocarbon line that was designed for spinning you will still be able to cast it a long way, have the advantage of only one knot between the fish and yourself (ie only one weak spot) and get smooth casting every time as a leader knot won't have to travel through your guides.

If you skimp here and choose a cheap flouro not designed as a main line for spinning you will run the risk of getting a line with too much spring in it and will get a tangled mess coming of your spool.

Braid;
Braid is more sensitive, strong for its diameter, and gives you the option of choosing a leader to suit the conditions/fish.
Considering you live in an area where all sorts of things will come out of the creeks I'd choose braid so that you can upgrade leader sizes if you keep getting done over.

Now its also important to know there are braids and fused lines and the line ratings on them are a confusing. As a guide braided PE lines are super thin and the rating on the label will be somewhere in the ball park. Fused lines tend to be rated at the equivalent rating for mono at the same diameter (confusing huh)
more simply put
6lb braid will break around the 6lb mark.
3lb fused will break around the 6lb mark
and both these lines will be of similar diameter (a high quality braid will be finer ).


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## spooled1 (Sep 16, 2005)

ArWeTherYet said:


> its usually less stretchy, stiffer, sinks better and is less seeable in clear water.


They're the things that got me thinking in the first place. Surely the stiffness/hardness of flouro would increase feel and no doubt effect castability but braids feel thru its diametre would obviously be a better but by how much in the 2-4lb classes?


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## anselmo (Aug 26, 2008)

blueyak said:


> Flouro;
> 
> If you get a good flourocarbon line that was designed for spinning you will still be able to cast it a long way, have the advantage of only one knot between the fish and yourself (ie only one weak spot) and get smooth casting every time as a leader knot won't have to travel through your guides.
> 
> ...


great advice there

also japanese origin braid break close to stated BS
US origin braids break over (usually way over) stated BS

also helps if we now what sort of lures you're using and how you're fishing them

see these for info about FC v Braid with SPs

it begins
FC
Further FC

Nick


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## spooled1 (Sep 16, 2005)

Thanks fellas,
Some sage advice there. I think I'll start off on a supple spinning flouro and see how that goes. In my rare bass fishing exploits, I always seem to get the sh*ts on braid to leader knots because the diametres are so frustratingly thin and flappy in the wind that I just tie straight through when I've lost a leader and still catch a few.

What would be a good, ebay available or local tackleshop available mainline flouro that isn't springy and matches what that link provided because I can't find that yellow Sunline Game Flouro they recommend.


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## Mickpaps (Feb 28, 2011)

hey mate, bream are my main target so i thought id help you out a bit!

Firstly a light braid (from 4 - 8lb)is the staple used by most bream'ers, most of the time.
Attached to this is a similarly light (2 - 6lb) Fluorocarbon leader.

This set up will give you the most sensitivity and greatest casting distance, due to the low stretch and super slim profile of the braid. In most scenarios 6lb main line and leader will be perfect and its a pretty good 'all round' weight class. However, depending on terrain and water clarity you may want go higher or lower on the breaking strain of your leader. The only time a Mono leader may be employed is if using surface lures. Mono floats and helps the lures track correctly across the surface film without pulling the lure down as fluorocarbon may.

The only time 'straight through' Fluorocarbon mainline should be used is when you are fishing shallow flats or in super clear conditions where fish are increasingly flighty. You will lose a little bit of sensitivity and will definitely sacrifice some power so it's important to play the fish gently. A good weight class is from 2 - 5lb in straight through (3 - 4lb being my choice). This should see you line become almost invisible and could be the difference between a full bad on tournament day or the dreaded donut.

Most important thing is to go a good quality (usually Japanese) line in any of these scenarios.
I personally use Sunline Super PE (braid) and regard it the best value for money braid on the market.
Fluorocarbon leaders I have chopped and changed a bit, currently using Yamatoyo & Platypus Stealth but was happy using Black Magic in the past.
Straight through I'd be looking at something like Sunline FC Sniper or Famell Spinning Fluoro.

I think it's a good idea to have a light spinning reel with two spool which enables you to change tactic from braid to straight through fluoro if the need arises.

Cheers,
Michael.


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## dru (Dec 13, 2008)

I tried mono on my lightest rig - replaced it with braid after just two fishes.

How did we ever manage without braid?


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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

dru said:
 

> I tried mono on me lightest rig - replaced it with braid after jus' two fishes.
> 
> How did we e'er manage without braid?


amen, not to mention graphite rods


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