# BEST ROD LEASH DESIGN



## MetalMuzz (Nov 11, 2010)

Hello fellow yak fishing fiends
For my fisrt forum question I'd like to poke a bit of a hornets nest but i'd like more information on optimum designs for rod leashes.
I paddle a Viking Nemo 2Plus One, usually by myself, sometimes with my daughter with possibility of either of us dropping a combo or losing them in a another bail out or me just fumbling it due to the poor finger control compliments of the plate in my wrist, and losing my new TCurve /Symmetre is not an option to be pursued.

From the previous posts on rod leashes it appears they should be: stretchy, strong enough to take a big fish, not able to have hooks - especially trebles - stick in them but not hard enough to waer on other gear, attached to the yak, not the person in case of a bail out, fixed with aluminium, stainless or plastic clips, attached to the rod by cable ties, velcro, metal clips at the reel seat, the top of the butt, bottom of the butt..... AAARRRRGH :? :? :?

So, I'll make it out of 3mm shock cord ( i cannot break it so should be plenty strong enough) attached to yak with an aluminium clip to the side rope. That end seems easy.

The significant problem is: What are the pro and cons of attaching it to the reel seat area or the butt? To me, if it attaches at the reel seat it could tangle when casting / fighting fish. Attaching it to the butt it could tangle in the Berkely rod holders putting it in out. What is the best option for attaching it to the bottom of the rod butt going this way? 
What are your collective thoughts and advice please.

Cheers, Murray


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## SharkNett (Feb 20, 2006)

I have been using couple of straight bungy cord leashes I made up. Keep getting tangled around bait tube, paddle etc so this week I will be making some coiled ones.
On the rod I have cable ties around the reel seat either side of the reel stem with a stainless carabiner through both. Keep the the cable ties pretty short and does not interfere with the reel operation at all.

Rob


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Ditto to Sharknett, except I tie 2 X 60 lb mono into short loops, and pin them under the reel seat before tightening the clamp. This gives you one for attaching the carabiner, and one for attaching the lure.

Only negative is the length of the bungy, cause you have to be able to reach the tip for untangling or re-rigging. I'm about to experiment with the bungy zigzgged inside a (say) nylon sheath about20 mm wide, which is loosely crushed up and runs the length of the unstretched bungy. This will serve 2 purposes: (a) it will cover the bungy and help prevent accidentally burying a hook in the bungy, (2) it will make the leash a bit more compact.

Trevor

Whoa...just had a better idea. If it works I'll patent it and make a fortune


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Murray personally I just like simple no frills things and have 1 meter lengths of light sash cord with loops at either end, and cause no problems in my Berkleys, the cord is thrown over the side when paddling which leaves the cockpit clear of clutter ...... and have already saved a rod overboard with this set up.


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## MetalMuzz (Nov 11, 2010)

Thanks for the replies.
I decided to adopt some of your ideas. 
I tied a short length - say 200mm - of 30lb mono under the bottom handle of the butt of the rod and attached it to a solid ring which attached to the straight bungy about 500mm long and to the aluminium caribiner. I can't break it - certainly not with the force of the line in the reel. Because the mono is under the level of the rod butt and it's thin it does not interfere with getting it in or out of the holder and the whole lot can be waved around at will for untangling and rigging. Because the attachment is at the bottom of the rod it is well out of the way for casting and miss 13yr old could not tangle them up throwing the line out. Only cost $2 each. Mono in the tackle box, bungy $0.65/m and stainless rings $1. Not sure it's optimum, but happy days.
I will be undoing all my reels and adopting Trevor's idea of a loop of mono under the seat for hooks to attach to. So simple! 
Trevor, I don't reckon your patent will go through. I found this really detailed post from Buff after i made my initial post. viewtopic.php?f=12&t=26793&hilit=stop+the+ooops%3A+aka+a+rod+leash Seems he covered most of the curled bungy possibilities. You could pay him royalties though!


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Very interesting. I'm not saying Buff's doesn't work, it looks great. Why didn't someone think of that ages ago? One thought....are the telephone cables UV resistant?

My idea is different. If mine works we might just split the royalties, or the profits. Gotta get lucky soon, cause the lotto tickets are not doing too well. 

Trevor


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## Stevie (Jan 16, 2011)

Scotty ones with the plastic clips are my fav after trying quite a few.


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