# NT - Gulf of Carpentaria 2010, Part 1



## murd

Gulf of Carpentaria 2010, Part 1

_(Note - 'Part 1' is a lengthy report comprising numerous photos displayed at 800 x 600 screen resolution, each with a large file size. Dial-up is not recommended) _

*Introduction:*
'Gulf 2010' initially began as a solo challenge, changing quickly early in the year when a Queenslander on the AKFF got wind of the trip and contacted me expressing interest in tagging along. The chap's name was Frank (ie) and he boasted the dubious Forum nickname of 'missingdna'. Following a number of checks with the circus, Gold Coast hospitals and employing a private investigator to track his movements for several months, I was eventually convinced Frankie would be safe and suitable company for my tenth expedition to Australia's Gulf of Carpentaria and I booked him in.








Several things had me eager to get back to the bush this year. During the 2009 trek, I collected 87 GPS marks of tracks disappearing into the scrub. At home I accessed Google Earth to 'see' where those tracks went, a tedious process but somewhat rewarding as it gave me several new areas to investigate and explore, two of those being an entire new river system plus a large freshwater lake. Naturally, I'd still be visiting the old stomping grounds but some excitement was evident knowing new discoveries were about to unfold and I'd be able to share them with my latest companion.

Gulf 2010 became an adventure story with a lot of fun. The trip wasn't just about kayaking and fishing, but enjoying the bush for a month and showing the new boy around. With the Suzuki repaired after the 2009 tour, I was sure she'd survive this latest outing despite aiming to 'push it' a little more for the camera. In preparation for what was about to unfold, I'd asked Frank to increase his paddle-fitness plus develop a method in cross-country kayak portage needed to complete one of our early objectives. Frank was also warned of the dangers in what we were doing and I told him to get his Will and insurances up to date. To assist the authorities in locating us should anything go wrong, I prepared a detailed itinerary of our plans complete with GPS points and personal contact details. A copy was given to loved ones for safekeeping.

Our tale begins&#8230;









I planned to meet Frankie at the Normanton caravan park on September 7th 2010, familiar with his voice but unsure what he looked like. When a diesel Rodeo 4x4 pulled in alongside me at the park with a red kayak on the racks, I assumed it was him. We shook hands and introduced ourselves. Our kayaks quickly caught the attention of other campers and the usual stories began to emerge - _the crocs are bigger and there's more of them this year_, we were told. Well naturally, I thought - they've had 12 months to grow and probably had some babies since I last visited. Someone in the campsite commented that Frankie looked a little like Ivan Milat. Playing the part almost too well 'Ivan' quickly pulled out a shiny new axe and equally glistening shovel, smiling criminally at me but I wasn't afraid. I had my own supply of equipment needed to dispose of a body should the need arise. Plus, I had the home advantage of knowing the terrain. It would almost be too easy.

We enjoyed the spa and pool during the afternoon with a barby and beers in the evening as a balmy night descended upon us. I got to pass on a bit of information of what I'd learnt of crocs over the years adding a few pointers to stay alive. The next morning would begin what I phrased as 'a paddle to become conditioned' to what we were about to embark on. As with 2009, we were going to the relatively close Bynoe River to get wet and 'loosen' up the muscles. With tides calculated to be on the rise we also had the possibility of a fish. Either way, it would be our first night in the bush and a chance to play with some of the gear we had brought along.

*The Bynoe River:*
The new morning dawned cloudless and warm as we packed to leave. Frank filled his tank at the Normanton BP while I looked on, passing comment that I thought his car was diesel&#8230;The look on his face as he spun around was priceless! Arriving at the Bynoe camp the wind was blowing quite strong but we unloaded the yaks and prepared for launch anyway, believing the breeze would make the increasing heat somewhat bearable.

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It's only 0923am and the wind is howling at the rather featureless Bynoe. I promised Frank a fun day however, adding the wind wouldn't be as bad around the first bend. As I've mentioned in past reports over the years these big rivers make it difficult to find any good fish without a lot of paddling and spent energy.

Last year the Bynoe gave me a nice barramundi but 2010 only provided us catfish. We did a number of gruelling kilometres downstream against tides and wind hoping to score something apart from catties but had no luck, even when casting from a sandbank towards a series of queenie bust-ups. On the return leg Frank suggested taking a diversion where the river split to join further upstream. The detour added at least 1.4 hours to the journey but seeing as it was my idea to 'get conditioned', I foolishly agreed to it. My body had already been cramping from the exertion and heat and through this stretch it collapsed to the point where I had trouble working the paddle. Wondering whether I'd actually be getting back unassisted, I had another horrible thought that the next four weeks would be equally as painful. We spent eight tough hours and 26 long kilometres on that cursed river and I was shattered by the time we reached camp. Frank initially didn't say much about how he felt but indicated later that it was pretty 'tough going'.

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Leaving the Bynoe River for a long drive to the NT and a new camp which we termed 'Big Gorge', a three kilometre pool on 'River X' visited last year but never paddled/fished due to geographical complications. I made it a point to capture the Suzuki in a variety of situations on this trip, especially during some of the more challenging tracks and river crossings.

Nearing Burketown, Frankie radioed that he'd acquired a 'bulls-eye' on his windscreen which needed immediate attention. As he worked for 'Windscreens O'Brien' he was more than capable of fixing it, especially with a professional repair kit being carried in his vehicle. Before pulling out the equipment we had a look at the local artesian bore which has flowed continuously since being sunk in 1897. I told Frankie the water was lovely and cool so he stood barefoot in it&#8230; In reality, the water rising from 702.3m below the ground reaches the surface at near boiling point. I had to laugh, but started thinking about that axe and shovel again.

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The Burketown artesian bore. One word of advice here - don't stand barefoot in the water!

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While passing through an area of the Gulf impacted by local mining, the road crosses this remarkable looking creek. A nearby sign however, indicates the water being polluted and unsafe to drink. For 10 years this creek has been in a similar state. Obviously, someone is being paid off big-time on this one. (Years ago there was no sign erected and I attempted to drink the water, finding it had a taste like an old copper penny)

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The last seven kays to Big Gorge are quite slow (for conventional cars) and follow the fence line pictured here. Common hazards include the ubiquitous termite mound, sand, large rocks, low tree branches, steep gulleys, sharp washaways, and Frank's dust. When examining the track it appeared that no-one had been there for a very long time. It wouldn't be unrealistic to assume that I was the last person to drive it 12 months earlier.

We reached camp at Big Gorge late in the afternoon planning to transport the yaks to the launch site that same day. Time escaped us however, and it was decided to leave them until morning. As shade is scarce above the gorge I recommended Frank grab himself a shade-tarp before the trip. He didn't bring a tarp, going one better with a rather large gazebo that I was sure would end up in the river once the wind came up.

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Our shade arrangements on top of Big Gorge, pictured the morning after arrival. Note the burnt grass (which actually circles the entire camp). This came about the previous night following a few beers and ports when we decided to back-burn the land in case of a fire coming through. As is always when back-burning in the bush, keeping things under control is a fun little exercise, plus knowing when to stop!

*Warning - Science content follows:*
The only place to launch kayaks at Big Gorge is from a creek mouth roughly a kilometre from the cars. This involves carrying them the entire distance across open but uneven terrain. No trails exist to follow, except those created by small animals which wind around the rocks and spiky spinifex. Weeks earlier in Sydney I devised a method to facilitate carrying the boats by joining two tie-down straps together and looping them through the carry handles. Placed over the opposite shoulder to where the inner cockpit was resting with the straps passing through a modified PRORACK kayak cradle for support, the weight was equally shared and balanced. Using this method, tests at home allowed the kayak to be carried nearly a kilometre around a park (as per the GPS) and allowed both hands to be free, needing only to grasp the hull if a wind were blowing. Unfortunately, the ground needing traversing at Big Gorge was far different to a suburban Sydney park, and the temperatures a little warmer. We knew early on it would take two trips through the bush with the gear, plus involve a tricky climb down rocks to the river and creek mouth.

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Leaving the vehicles ready for the kilometre trek with the boats (note the strap arrangements to assist the carry). We initially believed this was going to be quick and easy but discovered early on how wrong we were.

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At the midway point we both began feeling faint in the heat and needed to rest. What made the carry harder than expected became the uneven terrain and annoying spinifex which continuously spiked our legs. Trying to find a route past the worst of the grass saw us climbing rocks and wandering off course. I still hadn't recovered fully from the Bynoe 'experience' and despite not cramping again, my muscles remained sore from being stretched making the carry somewhat painful. The threat of venomous snakes was another issue to consider as we trod through the grass but I made a conscious effort to keep an eye out for them.

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When we initially ascended the rocks to the river and creek, we spooked a large mob of pigs that crashed through the undergrowth and disappeared in a mad panic. Plans where to stay with the boats weren't finalised in Sydney but once seeing the stream we decided to camp next to it (viewed to the right of the tents in this photo) as it provided endless drinking water plus a perfect launch into the river only metres away. Both our tents were small 'Black Wolf' bivvy's and only just fitted on a narrow strip of coarse sand that had to be landscaped for comfort. Adopting the Bear Grylls' method of padding, I lined beneath the tent with a good layer of leaves. Surprisingly, this worked well considering I didn't have a sleeping mat for support.

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Scenery in the top (southern) end of Big Gorge. We had no idea what the fishing would be like through the three kilometre pool but were prepared to enjoy the sights even if the barra became difficult to find. Frankie picked up a teaser on his second cast near the creek and we had high hopes of getting a lot more. Typically though, they weren't evenly spread throughout the water and only seemed to be focussed in two main areas, and not in great numbers.

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A barramundi from Big Gorge. Several snags held these fish but if more were about, they were doing a good job of remaining hidden or ignoring the lures. I suspected the place was full of the target species and it was unfortunate they didn't come out to play a bit more.

*Day 1 roundup:*
Our first day ended a little disappointed at the fishing (unless one enjoyed catching sooty grunter) but we were both loving being in a beautiful part of the world rarely visited by humans and staying where probably no-one else ever had. As night fell we collected timber for a fire but didn't light it as it seemed wrong to make things hotter than they already were. I cooked Frankie's initial barra for tea but strangely the flesh turned out mushy and I couldn't eat it. In fact, I had no appetite at all. It wasn't difficult to see I hadn't fully recovered from the past few days' strenuous activity and heat and hoped a good sleep plus an easier 'Day 2' would allow me to recuperate a little. The mosquitoes were hungry around the creek that night and we both crashed fairly early.

*Day 2 on the River: *
I awoke to countless bird calls after an uncomfortable steamy night in the tent, the lack of breeze failing to create any air movement until the last hour before dawn. Thinking of cold coke back at the cars, it took barely a second to convince Frank we hike a kay to grab a can. In the 'cool' of morning the walk was pleasant despite the spinifex probing pre-existing holes in the legs which hadn't been given a chance to heal. Eventually enjoying the chilled liquid that satiated our cravings, Frank asked why we didn't initially just leave the boats at the creek and stay at the cars each night. A good question I thought - and one which I will ponder the answer of for many years&#8230;

Once back at the tents, we decided to drift fish the immediate pool plus investigate downstream beyond the first rapid. Highlights of this excursion not only included the great scenery and knowing we were kayaking pioneers through here, but being able to tease and feed a cheeky two-metre freshie with a live sooty suspended by line off a cliff. We also found a pool with good structure providing us a number of hungry barra for the tally board. The sooties were totally mental in some places and became a steady pest when targeting better species.

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The shallow section here empties into a deep pool where I fed the freshie the unfortunate sooty. The croc, fed up with being teased by the lure lifted its body half from the water to snatch the fish before I had a chance to get the video rolling. Similar behaviour can be observed by the 'Jumping Crocodile' tours near Darwin where massive beasts rise from the river to grab handouts by tour-boat operators.

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Here's Frankie with a barra picked up near a 'profitable' series of snags that allowed us a bit of angling fun. This area became our turnaround point for the day and we paddled back to camp to take everything to the cars except the boats and fishing essentials. Naturally, the spinifex jabbed freshly sunburnt legs making it one of my less memorable bushwalking experiences. Frank made comment somewhere along here that with the constant trekking and rock hopping, he'd soon be able to 'crack walnuts' between his arse cheeks. Thankfully during my time away I never saw him attempt this.

*Day 3 on the River:*
After a _great _sleep in the cars and equally satisfying breakfast, we hiked back to the boats to undertake another outing downstream, planning to venture even further than Day 2 into a series of pools I'd mapped and printed out from Google Earth months earlier. Downstream had substantial 2-dimensional appeal when I studied the area in detail online so we never trekked further upstream than where the front pool ended, shown in the vicinity of photo '10' above.

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The sooties were stupidly vicious on Day 3. I repeated the 'double' several times during the morning and if the lure had three sets of trebles, I'd probably have a photo of a third fish on it.

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While paddling the northern end of Big Gorge I'd noticed an overhang above the bank which I felt needed investigation. In the morning of Day 3 we walked up to the overhang, finding some interesting Aboriginal rock art for our efforts. Given the location and difficult access to this area, these prints could well be undiscovered. This moment of Dreaming is now named the 'Frankanrick' gallery. Bones were scattered below the paintings but we couldn't identify whether they were human or not.

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Here we've climbed above the overhang appreciating the vast wilderness this part of the Territory offers those who make the effort to explore it. As I said to Frank months earlier, this trip would be more than just fishing. Australia has much to give if you're prepared to get a bit hot and dirty.

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Sometimes the logs are just a little too big to cut away with our flip saws. Luckily we could 'squeeze' beneath this one.

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Frankie coming through the same giant log jam.

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Several of the pools we came across on Day 3 were extremely tranquil and the final one reached before turning back presented us with a number of clear springs flowing across the sand. I did notice the remnants of a barbed wire fence near here so this part of the river isn't entirely unexplored however, the likelihood of it ever being paddled before would have been slim.

*We pack up to head back to the cars:*

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The climb out from Big Gorge was always going to be a challenge. Our 'designer' straps aided us significantly but the main problem here was keeping a good hand and foothold when having to pivot with the boat during turns. We actually managed this without assisting each other proving the effectiveness of the straps. Regardless, a wrong step or overbalance would have had us crashing in a heap to the bottom.

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During our rest stop in the above photo, I captured some camera video of the climb out. This (enlarged) frame pulled from the tape shows the difficult route we still had to negotiate. Once we'd eventually reached the top the boats were left at the highest point above the hill and a return made for the paddles and any other gear which was then taken back to the cars. My legs were dotted in blood by then from the spinifex and I was dreading having to walk it again to bring the boats out. However, while at the cars I had an idea to 'beat the bush'. Here's the result:

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Using strips of a cloth tarp that Frank had discarded, we fashioned 'gators' for the legs using masking tape to keep them on. I initially ran some tests on these in the thickest of grass before realising they had to be double-wrapped to form an efficient barrier to the spiky ends. For anyone wondering why we didn't just wear long pants, I did at one stage and nearly passed out from the heat. Plus, the cotton did nothing to protect the legs. Wearing our gators made it a joy walking and allowed us to trample through the worst clumps deliberately without worry.

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Taken from the camera video, our moment of return across the fence. This was the last time we used the straps as all future portages were not so demanding. The gators had made the final carry a breeze and actually cut the distance a little as there was no need to search out the easiest path.

This ended Part 1 of this section of river. We had thoroughly enjoyed our stay here and the adventure it provided. Fishing-wise, it could have been a little better (unless one is passionate about the sooty) but in systems such as these it can be difficult to predict where barramundi would congregate and feed. A box on my 'to do list' was ticked off and we packed for the slow but entertaining drive out to the main road and turnoff for our next destination downstream.

*River X - Reloaded*
I'd promised Frank an equally enjoyable time at the new camp which would also take in two nights away from the cars. At the river crossing required before reaching it, we encountered several other parties involved in their own adventure across the Gulf. As is typical in these situations, everyone is super friendly and keen for a yarn, especially with a small red hatchback about to take the plunge. I asked Frank to film my attempt after I'd had a good look at the bottom and mentally marked a route.

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A steady build-up of traffic at the river. Why everyone suddenly arrived at the same time was a mystery but these moments provide the opportunity to chat with other travellers. Here's Frankie being Mr Sociable and waiting for some motorbikes to cross.

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Prior to driving the river I removed any large stones which could impede the tyres and familiarised myself with those that couldn't be shifted. What I did neglect to do though, was attach a tarp to the bonnet and grill which would have kept the engine a bit drier during the 30-second immersion. Thirty seconds seems a lot longer here as the car is barely moving in 1st gear with just enough power to prevent it stalling. For those interested the crossing can also be watched via this short 47sec video that Frank made. Have a laugh and call me stupid, but I made it!





*New camp, new adventures:*

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Parts of the Gulf received mammoth rainfalls last season and this was reflected in the number of waterfalls emptying into the channel just down from the new camp. I never get tired spending time here and I had a strong suspicion Frankie was enjoying it too.

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With such good runoff, most of the big limestone pools above the falls were full.

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Here's a different angle of the same pool with the river seen clearly below. We both swam in here plus did a few 'bombs' from the rocks (as you do). But, it's the following photo which I find quite remarkable:

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This shot was taken exactly 2 years earlier of the same pool during my 2008 solo trip. It's amazing what a difference a bit of water makes. The shot also gives you an idea of the size and depth of the pool.

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Before leaving home I'd asked Frankie to pack a face mask as we might be doing a bit of diving. Here he is/we are masking one of the many crystal clear cascading pools above the falls. I disappeared at one point to swim every pool between here and the main top feeder pond. This place is an unspoilt paradise as Frankie would agree.

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Playing with a turtle during a downriver outing. River X is home to a lot of turtles, some huge and most of which are females. The girl here offered to give me a kiss but I held back. We spent a bit of time in the water on this day to escape the heat, chase turtles and explore underwater.

*A quick roundup:*
For two days we fished the river before deciding to head downstream for two nights. Aside from numerous sooty grunter and a sole jack by Frank, we didn't find any barra around the productive snags and pools of last year. Naturally disappointed, I attributed this partly to the massive influx of water the area received over summer which probably carried most fish out to the ocean to breed. Regardless, we were keeping ourselves entertained and my companion even hinted at staying there the whole month. Packing for the trip away, I seriously cut back on what was coming along and advised Frank to do the same - we even left the rifles behind. The weight difference during portages was immediately noticed and we barely struggled anywhere. Following is an abridged version of those few magical days downriver:

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15/9/10, 0916am - yaks packed and ready to go! I love doing this little jaunt (3 times now) and hoped for some better fishing along the way. As mentioned in past reports we don't need to carry water as the river is okay to drink from, especially where springs or soaks are found (and there are many). I have an urge to drink from every spring I come across which is a lot of water to ingest, but as so much water gets lost in perspiration it's not really noticed.

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Rapids are a constant but tolerable delay along the way. Here's Frankie wondering who put that stump there. I like this shot because it shows the level of the upper pool and that little narrow section holding it back.

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About to exit into another pretty pool. With the water so warm it didn't matter if we lost footing and went for an unplanned swim. In the heat, we were dry again in minutes.

*Something's changed from last year&#8230;*
Once we reached the target pool and I located the familiar high bank where camp would be made, one thing became evident. The large access tree/log Craig and I used last year to climb the steep bank had entirely disappeared, washed away by the summer deluge. This instantly became a problem as back then, there was no other easy way to reach the clearing where the tents would go. But luck was on our side as I realised the torrents had also cleared the vegetation and debris from the bank directly below the campsite. With a bit of simple landscaping in the sand, we fashioned a docking port at the water's edge including a track ascending the rise which terminated at the foot of the tents. This actually became far superior to what was utilised in 2009.

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View from the water towards the bank below camp. This area had a lot of pigs (and tiny piglets) about which when returning quietly to the tents, were often seen snoozing in close proximity to our abodes. Opposite here on the facing bank we made use of a handy spring for our drinking-water needs. Last year, this same spring was barely a trickle.

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Camp above the bank - note the minimal gear we took. The ground here is probably the best place on this long pool to stay as it's naturally level and clear from undergrowth and Noogoora burrs (Xanthium occidentale). One comment on these bivvy tents though, they're super compact but not made for big people. Frank complained that his shoulders would often hit the 'ceiling' when sleeping on his side.

*Day 2, including a roundup to date:*
The fishing in the large pool turned out fairly good with barra and jacks being caught (and lost) predicatively where the best structure lay. The fish didn't seem as big as last year though so I took few photos of them, concentrating more on documenting the river and capturing what we did. We've all seen barra and jack photos before so unless the fish were sizeable or the angler specifically wanted a photo (or there was something unique about the capture), the camera stayed in the bag. I still tend to think that the big guys and most of the jacks moved out with the last rains. Strangely, we didn't come across any bull sharks in the places where they chomped Craig's fish last year. Similar to the biggest barra and most of the jacks, I felt they must have also returned to the ocean for a salt hit.

We found we often wandered off alone in the large pool, hunting for that magical metre-plus trophy which has eluded me ever since I began visiting the Gulf. Sooties weren't scarce and many were consistently very large, well over a kilo in weight. I think Frank had an aversion to the sooty but I enjoyed them as a by-catch.

As with other years exploring this river, I never came across any saltwater crocodiles. The freshwater variety surfaced from time to time to check us out and one curious critter even propped itself up from the water to have a look inside my cockpit while I was onshore unhooking a barra. This was the first occurrence of a croc ever touching my ride - the second time one made contact the result wasn't as amusing.

On day 2, we undertook an outing downriver for a bit of rapid bashing, fishing and sightseeing:

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Taken near camp at 0711hrs, the sun slowly rises over the big pool to awaken the western hill. We had an interesting first night on the bank. Frankie spotted a freshie hovering behind the boats which I'm sure was the same bloke I'd met earlier in the day. The shoreline became of interest to mobs of big turtles eating leaves which had slid into the river from our activities up and down the track to camp. Until then, I never realised turtles ate leaves. Sometime during the early morning while asleep the pigs returned and had us circled. Trying to differentiate the grunts from Frankie's snoring proved challenging but I knew we were in a bad situation should they turn nasty - being trampled by a dozen feisty piglets would be a cruel way to die.

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One of the longer sections of shallows that greet paddlers soon after they leave the main pool to head downstream. Frankie never once complained here. On the contrary, I often heard the kid say, 'I'm lovin' this!'

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Here the angler 'specifically wanted a photo' of a barra. In reality, I think he just wanted to show his arms off to the world!

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The backdrop when exploring this river is quite spectacular. There is nearly always something interesting to see around each bend to capture your attention. I was always on the lookout for caves where we might discover further evidence of ancient habitation, or a new spring to taste.

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On returning to camp around 3.30pm that day, we saw that the pigs had moved in nearby. The one in centre photo here is sound asleep unlike his buddies that just walked out of shot.

*Brief summary - Day 2:*
Day 2 became another pleasurable episode on the river. We caught more barra but the main species on the lures became the effervescent sooty. I warned Frankie early on that he'd get sick of catching them and I think he did as he often kept the line in where the infestations were greatest. The portages were simple without the excess weight of camping gear and in the heat, became an easy way to cool down. Frankie tried getting a small barra for tea in the big pool near camp but only caught the larger ones which were released.

On nightfall I roped a dead sooty to the kayak and within 20 minutes a series of solid thumps below the hull indicated the turtles had found it. I spent a good hour watching the feeding frenzy unfold which included some massive turtles doing 'death rolls' on the end of the line. Red claw and cherubin were attracted to the commotion but the croc that I'd hoped to see again and photograph didn't return. I lit a huge fire to keep the bunyips away and help Frank sleep as he crashed relatively early that night leaving me alone to swat mozzies and watch the activity around the bank.

In the morning we packed for the 6 hour return to the cars, taking a cooling dip whenever the air got too hot. Naturally, I kept taking photos:

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Imagine the force of water needed to uproot this. I always wonder where the turtles go when water levels rise and increase in ferocity.

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This is a nice little swimming hole on the way back to wade through and cool off in. I learnt two days earlier not to disturb the rocks beneath such falls as they harbour a type of small, flesh eating worm. Being subjected to a swarm of these while in budgie smugglers is not a pleasant experience!

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In this photo, Frankie has climbed the rocks in the background to video a gallery of cave art in the hollows I discovered back in October 1999 - I opted to check out a recess in the opposite wall instead. I'd been to the paintings a few days earlier and noticed a serious wasp's nest inconveniently placed under an overhang where the best images were located. While sitting in the shade taking in the view as captured here, (can you spot the boats?) I heard a muffled scream followed by a number of expletives and saw him tear down the slope waving his arms about his head. I assumed he found the nest&#8230;

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Friday 17th September 2010 and we're almost home. Frankie survived his half dozen wasp stings quite well and was able to keep paddling. He admitted later he was more worried about the vehicle being where he left it than a few lumps on his face.

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After carrying the gear up to the cars we wandered across to the waterfalls (those in picture 26 above) for a swim and explore. This view shows us accessing them from the easier southern point. The brown material floating in the water is aerated algae. I can't recall if it occurred on this day or not, but while walking around the cascading pools I heard a series of small squeals, not unlike something crying. Eventually looking at the ground, I lifted my foot from the rock and a small frog which had been pinned down jumped free. Crying frogs? Christ, I thought - now I've seen everything!

*Conclusion:*
This amazing river in the Northern Territory again demonstrated to me why I need to protect it from commercialism and exploitation. There is probably no other place in Australia where one can carry a kayak on a little car to an area that so few people know about, and have an adventure money couldn't buy. Frank and I inherited many great memories from our stay on that river. Hopefully, the photos and words documenting this segment of our journey have helped at least one person in the world appreciate what a remarkable country we are fortunate to live in. If anyone does recognise where we were, please keep the name quiet. 'National Parks' with their 'rules' and 'restrictions' have already ruined a piece of the Gulf I used to innocently camp at - part 3 covers this. It's a miracle they haven't discovered 'River X' yet, especially with the pockets of Aboriginal art along its banks.

The following week provided us with a number of varying challenges, both for the Suzuki and our bodies. Frankie battled a nasty stomach bug and I suffered the wrath of a cranky saurian. But, we got stuck into a few good barra and kept the adventure rolling on. Stay tuned for what should be a _very _interesting report and a warning to those intending to kayak the Gulf.

Cheers,
Rick and Frankie


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## MrX

Breathtaking!! Worth the wait. Thanks Rick & Frankie.


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## Rstanek

Awesome stuff guys, can't wait for part 2!


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## rathabfishin

Brilliant, just brilliant!


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## sbd

We've lost Malcolm & Steve, fortunately we've still got Rick. Bring on part 2!


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## skorgard

I dont know what is best : the writing, the adventure, the fishing or the as yet untold tale of the plastic eating croc.

Fantastic : thanks for the lengthy writeup and fabulous photos.

I drove from Darwin to Weipa in 1981, using the Boroloola to Burketown route. I wish I had known about yak fishing then.


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## seawind

Awesome, thanks.


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## Barrabundy

Thanks for sharing, an awesome trip report, can't really say much more.


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## butterfingers

Most people would say this is a once in a lifetime thing but doing this 3 years in a row would be rubbing it in a little bit. Nice report thanks for sharing can't wait for part 2.


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## prsport

Great read. Best I've read. Thanks for taking the time to share with us! Cheers.


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## efc

awesome report again! The algae in the last picture looks like spirulina, you could make a fortune out of that stuff


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## Dodge

Rick you remain a true wordsmith as in previous years mate, and well Frank in sharing the adventure.


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## breamfish

Definitely worth the wait 

Thanks Murd bring on part 2


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## yakattack

simply sensational

Micka


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## Scholly

Great trip report guys. Looks like you had a fantastic time.Some great photos . Very jealous.


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## lovefishing

cant wait for next installment


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## badmotorfinger

Bloody hell, that was so engrossing it kept me from watching a nail biting and only decent Bledisloe Cup game the Wallabies have played for years. Awesome stuff.


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## garyp

Murd, as usual it is great to read your reports. Thank you for the effort that you go to in order to share them with us. Hope to see you again down at the boat ramp this summer.


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## TheFishinMusician

Bravo!!! 
Always a great writeup murd! fantastic!
looking forward to the next bit, now off to re-read this one!


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## karnage

ball tearer rick, i loved it.


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## snapperz

Thank you Murd.You are truly an inspiring man.


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## RedPhoenix

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

----

QlpoOTFBWSZTWXGIY5gAAC1fgAAQYKXsGASkEAA//9+gMAD6LBqekmJNiCaM1M0gGJoRMEmyo9Q9INGmQGTNQap+U0mETT1NGgGQGQJq3VZhDxxlyBOfv87EhVlQyCZ8dGhZMNJwilo/KdGsIHlgWUuCNfmxiWVl1MaNlsyylMzagxIkSDbjL3wxCEWCMVhn3NbyrWU2CaUxKnLNLZb8CAkW1Nfsm9odW/VIi5ugtCcc1qDVAiAHQqRMKr4udc+wYXw0NxpGk8K3FhKF16ApCaaINrKoKy+IeZfaBE24Q813tC/ISpMFeldiLaoSM6CgTF4xtKqhtmomVhM5SCF6IZOEjQ+LIYXVk8YwZiC4Ok7BSn8XckU4UJBxiGOY


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## bazzoo

Uhhhhhhh Rick , i love your northern adventures and the reports and photography are sensational , maybe we'll take up a collection here at AKFF and send you away every year on one of these , the reading is simply worth it mate , well done on another masterpiece love it and part 2 still to come , take your time mate and make it a long one


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## Ado

Wow. An adventure well concieved, executed in style, documented with poetic justice and photographic artistry. What more can we ask for Murd. Thank you so much.


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## redman

What more can I add - a masterpiece as usual and worth the wait!


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## boondock

Inspirational, and a wonderful peak into part of this great country most would never see.. Bring on No. 2


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## ArWeTherYet

Thanks again Murd, look forward to the rest of the series.


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## Grantos

Well done Rick, right up there with your usual standard! Liked the humour too, just hope your travelling companion isn't already planning his revenge on you. :twisted:

Looking forward to #2.


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## wopfish

Top stuff Rick - and glad to see the Swift in its supporting role ! Cant wait for the next intsallment - thankyou thankyou !


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## paulsod

Just putting in my 2 cents worth and saying "Just Magic, mate".
The story and the beautiful scenery in your photos are tops.
Can't wait for the croc's saga.


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## Ramos23

Great Post

The pictures are amazing!

Best regards


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## Notshy

As always.......VERY INTERESTING! Cheers!


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## Brc226

Once again ... wow


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## scater

Spectacular as always Rick!


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## Zed

Fantastic, murd!


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## keza

Great stuff as always Rick.
Thanks for taking the time to share it.


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## Bummer

Living the dream.....


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## willowonfire

great read Murd. Good to see Frankie didnt do you in...

That sounds and looks like a magical place. 
Cant wait for Part 2.


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## Thorby

I've just been away for the weekend and catching up on the trip reports.

Your report and fantastic photos really prove to me there is nothing like the Australian outback. Make sure you lock up your records and keep those locations to yourself but continue to tease us with more of your exploits.


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## PhilC

Rick - you paint pictures with your words - I feel like I just visited a remote gorge in the NT whilst sitting in my loungeroom in Sydney........ Well done mate!


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## johnny

lub it,simply big time


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## avayak

Hard core stuff guys. After seeing the photo of you lugging the yaks up that cliffside I won't complain anymore about wheeling the revo up the Longy ramp. No, I probably still will.


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## paint

read all your trip reports top reading


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## yakman1995

Definitley the best trip report i've seen in a while!!!!! Looks like you fella's have a bit of fun


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## murd

Time for a quick thanks to the _great _feedback youse guys have been leaving:

Naturally, I've been completely humbled by the comments, especially this one by Ado -



Ado said:


> Wow. An adventure well concieved, executed in style, documented with poetic justice and photographic artistry.


So, thanks everybody - it makes writing these reports worth it.

*Photobucket *has sent me an email saying my BANDWIDTH is about to be exceeded. I believe this has something to do with the number of people looking at Part 1, which takes available bandwidth from Photobucket. They say i've used 7.1 gig, or 70% of my 10 gig limit. The bottom line is, if people keep reading 'Part 1' of my trip report, then photobucket will freeze my account until November 13th. And, no one will see any photos until that day :shock:

What this also means, is that I can't really upload Part 2 with photos until 13/11 when I get my full bandwidth back! 

But, it will give me ample time to put Part 2 together.

Cheers, 
Rick


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## RedPhoenix

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

----

QlpoOTFBWSZTWTwe3o4AAD9fgAAQceW4MgSgUIo/7//wMAEGloap4Qj1Se1E3pT09KHlDyT0TajT9UDVNMJqemg0TIwAAmTTJhqepo0UepkB6QaaGjQGgDMJoBw9u23yTe59AR5vkCXnX6ji9NaOHVWev4+1w7F4bftixcibwSYssTsYLF+XXbjdpjLA9Lq843bjPcwRtKPt8U5kaGuDZt4BAwi3nyfct4rHzir/QK8HJRe1K2PRg8ch3wO2tHq4JB4p55gzxdDnVBG7p014Af32GnZ6SMSIS31ChWhT5SwylC+dk21OYVLzrWmsY1XwJpEOSKMqgugGqLtUGEjPg3o8RDgSQrrElTMSC2AmhyidhDejLQkFGDOivsQxS5UBbZ0kWY7ykNKEJ4QQHHTYSJSWIGEh8n4khQv4Fmy4NEYEtZAtfjmXBf4u5IpwoSB4Pb0c


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## AJD

Bring on the next installment! Inspirational stuff boys!


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## cam07

great stuff a great read and great pics look forward to the next instalment


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## andybear

Amazing trip

I can feel the sunburn and exhaustion from here. Loved the vid of the creek crossing with the suzuki!

Cheers andybear


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## Junglefisher

Finished picking the spinifex thorns from out of your shins yet?
Sounds like a great start to the trip but maybe I'm a teeny bit glad that I couldn't make it, it sounds pretty gnarly too.


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## RedPhoenix

Unfortunately, due to the change in ownership of this web site and the lack of response by the owners to my requests to remove my email address from all administrative-level notifications and functionality, I have decided to remove my posts on AKFF. Thank you for the great times, the fantastic learning experiences and the many many fish. If you are desperate for the old content of this particular post, it is available below base64 encoded and bzip2 compressed.

Red.

----

QlpoOTFBWSZTWb4jrcEAAA7bgAAQYQH8stAAP2/XgCAASMPRGgaaNNpPSNMnqNDGho/VGENA00ME9FICo6YloSYQ3vlq5o7CDRNeQPdOiOc4zJXZpXI3sZZmmoRLXRil2TP/kYtyiAfBgvBraC7kinChIXxHW4I=


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## Yak4ever

Thanks for sharing that great report, but were you have been and those great scenes I am sure were better then the camera can catch, thats the food of souls.


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## johnny

get ready for me to chew your ears off chatting at longy!


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## keza

johnny said:


> get ready for me to chew your ears off chatting at longy!


Johnny we try not to use the words 'chew' and 'longy' in the same sentence


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## YakCult

Well done Rick and Frankie - another series of great experiences!  
I've been away from the luxury of computers for a few weeks and was looking forward to catching up on my return!
Will now enjoy Pt 2......


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