# Reel lifetimes in kayak fishing



## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

What sort of lifetime is everyone getting out of there reels? Ive had my fourth in 3 years fail now, I always rinse after every trip, but as soon as they get a dunk they're had it. My latest is a Quantum Cabo 50 PTS that I brought because of its supposed layers of corrosion protection and that you beaut hot sauce stuff that I hoped would do the trick, but now the anti reverse has crapped it and it spins every which way, and only 2 years old. Opened it up and sure enough there's salt everywhere through it, cleaned it up and its still buggered, but I cant work out how to get the spool off to get down to the anti-reverse to see whats wrong. Anyone know how to get into these reels?
What sort of care does everyone give there reels? Manuals say fresh water rinse down and service every now and then, but that doesn't seem enough for the conditions they get put through on the kayak. Next step I think will be to get them out of the flush mounts and into raised mounts to get them up away from splashes.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

Hmmm, not sure if my use would be representative of the average kayak fisherman but imagine it wouldn't be too different to the average yakker in the estuaries.

I used a shimano Callisto baitcaster for 3 years solid, it got dunked a few times align the way and I recently put it back into service. It could be called stuffed but more due to wear and rough treatment than corrosion. It's mostly plastic so probably not a good example. I used to hose it down after use in salt and gave it a spray with lanox/wd40. (Whatever I had at the time) every so often.

The Quantum cabo baitcaster I replaced it with is now 2 years old and has no visible signs of corrosion. I treat it the same way but am more careful about where I spray the lanox in case it pushes dirt into bearings and drag, the Shimano only had one bearing! I don't remember dunking this reel yet and it looks like new inside.

If I don't use lanox and rely only on the hosing, I reckon they'd rust up quicker. I should mention that most of the times my outings only last 2-3hrs and then I'm back home giving them a hose. They probably don't life as harsh a life as if they were copping salt spray for the whole day like they would if I did full days offshore.


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## bundyboy (Sep 6, 2009)

I rinse mine after each use with fresh soapy water and only give them a service when I notice something not feeling right and some of my reels have been going for 4 or so years now. I have given one or two of them a full strip down and reassemble service once or twice but other than that they don't really get much other attention. None of them have even been dunked though and when I go offshore I always store them in extended rod tube type holders where they don't really cop to much direct salt water spray. Have seen minimal signs of corrosion when ever I have opened up any of my reels, most damage has been caused by continuous (rough) use and/or the bumpy roads that some of them see on a regular basis.

Did you split your reels apart and/or soak in fresh water after they got a dunking? I would assume even the most expensive and most corrosion resistant reels wouldn't cope very well with dunking as salt water is bound to get inside and cause damage some way or another...

If I was you I would put some raised rod holders on and make sure you give them a bit of extra attention if they get dunked and see how you go after that.


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## ArWeTherYet (Mar 25, 2007)

Use to buy a new reel every 6 mths, then I bought a Certate, been dunked more times than I care to remember, gets wet on every trip (everything gets wet in the Kingy, including me). Wash it with warm water after every trip, gets professionally serviced every 12-18mths and is still as smooth as the day I bought it 5 years ago. Best investment. Never use Inox as it clogs everything up and is a sand magnet. Dont use soap as it washes oil and grease out.
Same goes with rods, once I stopped buying sub $200 rods they stopped breaking, just replace a guide occasionally.


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## cheaterparts (Jul 3, 2010)

I have gone through a few reels but the biggest surprise have been some Ebay cheapies back in april 2011 I bought 3 Melalua 3000 series reels as cheap light bait reels for whiting and such @ $13 each

these reels were pulled apart from new cleaned and serviced using Inox MX6 grease ( which can be bought at almost any bearing shop )
1 died 18 months after being bought - salt water had got into the front bearing
2 are still going they are looking quite salt effected on the out side but are still working fine

so far these reels have pulled a 76 and 72 cm snapper and 2 over 1 meter gummy sharks

most of my heavier gear have old school penn OH reels that are almost the perfect yak reel with no bearings or 1 way clutches to get salt effected
and so take little looking after
just std service every now and then greased with MX6 grease and some shimano drag grease on the drag washers


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## Guest (Oct 19, 2013)

Once you take off part 12 the rotor should lift straight off. 26b may need plyer's or vice grips to push out. 28 is the part that you want by the sounds of it.
parts 2 - 9 stay with the spool. here is a link if you need parts or you can contact the local supplier.
http://www.quantumfishing.com/CustomerService/ReplacementParts.aspx?ProductID=2510


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## Salty Dog (Sep 18, 2005)

Hey Gonetroppo,

I'm going to fixate on the one line that looks like your biggest problem:



> but as soon as they get a dunk they're had it


Mate, if they get dunked, either get it serviced as soon as you can or if you are confident that you are up to the task, service it yourself. If it gets dunked & doesn't get serviced to get the salt out, it is going to be stuffed.

I rinse mine with fresh water & spray with Inox after use which seems to help, (not getting out fishing often enough probably does too) but there are very few reels out there that are designed to allow for being submerged at any stage. Unless it is a reel that really is designed to be submerged, you want to go into damage control & rush off to service your reel the instant it takes a dunking.

Some of the more experienced guys manage to wear out reel internals by locking up drags & skull dragging big fish away from reefs. I can only dream...


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

Never mind


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## peterman (Jul 9, 2012)

Hi

I have been using a Daiwa Heartland XA2000 spinning reel for the past 3 years from the yak. I researched a lot before I bought it and read some advice from a tackle shop guy who said that having 7 corrosion resistant bearings and a sealed drag meant they are pretty good to use from a yak.

I spray it down with warm water from a spray bottle after each use, leave to dry, then spray with Inox and store.

It has had one service, and has performed brilliantly. Has never been dunked though.

Regards

Peterman


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks for the replys, I agree, the dunkings seem to mean full strip down and clean out from now on.

So to the reel.... I can unwind 1, and then I would have thought 8A (the whole spool) would lift straight off, letting me access the next parts I need to get down to for the the anti reverse, but it doesn't, and buggered if I can see whats holding it on still. Can anyone see it?


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2013)

Ok so when you take the spool off you will see a plastic cover(part 11) with 2 screws(part 10) , undo them and it will expose a brass nut(part 12) that may have turned black due to salt undo that but be aware that it may be left hand thread but if this is the case then they normally mark it on the top of the rotor. At this point the rotor (part 25) should lift off. Take a photo of where your stuck so we can be of more help.


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks, nope I cant even get that far, the spool wont come off:



Ive been peeking through the back of the spool and there's certainly issues back there I think, I can see a largish ring resting on the shaft that doesn't match any shape on the schematic, so maybe somethings broken?


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## Slazmo (Oct 18, 2010)

Liberally coat that area (Inox, CRC RP7 or similar) where the washers and the spool are and where the shaft protrudes from. Hold the spool and try to force the shaft out with something else - I think you you've encountered some galvanic oxidation between the two dissimilar metals. Otherwise trying to heat it by pouring boiling hot water over the spool may also 'crack' the bond releasing the shaft...

What I would suggest is if the reel is cheap and the AR bearing has snuffed itself, its not worth buying another as the part may cost you more than the reel itself? Servicing at a earlier rate than that of reels that are used on shore or from more protected spots, reels used on kayak's need special care and earlier attention.

I always make a gasket from grease on the body when it goes back together and ensure that there is a film of grease covering any holes or bearing faces that point outward - so far so good!

If the reels internals are corroded, eg: brass parts discoloured I would also recommend cleaning them in a acid solution prior to reassembly.


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

Thanks, my suspicion too... however it does rock back and forth on the shaft slightly. its apparently about $30 for a new bearing if that's the problem, Its was a $200 reel so I don't want to give up on it just yet.


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2013)

Squirt lots of lube down there and rock it while trying to pull it off and it will come.


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## imnotoriginal (Jan 13, 2008)

nad97 said:


> Squirt lots of lube down there and rock it while trying to pull it off and it will come.


That's what she said

Joel


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2013)

Get ya mind out of the gutter ya barstard


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## imnotoriginal (Jan 13, 2008)

nad97 said:


> Get ya mind out of the gutter ya barstard


Sounds like you need to get your hand off it :lol:

Joel


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

Well some persuasion with a hammer was what it need, its held up alright inside actually, but there's some corrosion on parts. I've currently got them sitting in a vinegar/bicarb solution which apparently helps take some of that away. 
As to the problem, I cant see it, must be something to do with the clutch, the anti revers lever compresses a spring which rotates the inner ring of 28A, and I'm guessing this is somehow meant to lock that bearing. Apparently salt clogging can cause that to malfunction hence why I'm soaking it at the moment, other wise I'm thinking some more hammering on the back of it to remove the back plate and get to the bearings to see whats going on in there.

If there's a way I could somehow lock the anti reverse on (I never turn it off) from here I'd love to know how if someone can tell me, as the reels fine besides that. 
In the mean time, with a week long expedition at sea looming, around some well known big mackerel and billfish grounds, I went and got myself a charter special combo (back to Shimano, always been the best reels I've owned), just in case this one can't be repaired in time. I'm going to extend my rod holders out with conduit to keep it up away from the spray and take a can of lanox to clean it down with everyday. As for getting it dunked I just got to be careful I guess, as I don't have a rod chute I'm trying to think up a cover or something to put over them to help.


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

Yep, the 'hot sauce' (grease) in the clutch was clogged with salt and grit, and after I gave the whole thing a total clean out and coating with spray the anti-reverse is running perfectly again (Its a magnetic system actually). Stripped the rest of the reel, cleaned it, and its good as new. Some surface corrosion on a few components is about, and one of the retainer clips is weakening, but overall its in good order again. Now I've seen all the internals its a pretty solid and basic system, a good reel.
Thanks for the help guys.


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## Salty Dog (Sep 18, 2005)

Hey gonetroppo,

Don't know what your overall storage situation is on the kayak but if your reels are just copping a dunking on surf entries/exits & you have the room, you could take your reels off the rods & drybag them when going in/out of the surf & stow somewhere handy for when you are out of the surf zone.

If you are going over because of monster fish, mad jet-skiers or power boaters I can't think of anything much to keep your reels out of trouble. There are some reel covers out there but they are more about protecting you from the odd splash here & there, not getting submerged.

Good luck & good work repairing your reel.


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## Guest (Oct 26, 2013)

Good work getting it going again Bearings are the biggest fail point on the reels. Pull your spool off regularly and clean the anti reverse to and the reel will last till the gears fail


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

I saw some neoprene covers on ebay that look like quite good. It's all splashing's they are copping, from waves to drips blown back off the paddle blade, i think elevating going to help, and if I stop trying to surf in and just jump out and wade in from now on I should stop the occasional dunkings too


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