# Rebuild or Wait?



## avayak (May 23, 2007)

Ken, I'd open the maimtenance port and shake any water out. Take off the handle and opposite cover. Spray inox into the maintenance port and into the bearings wher the handle and cover connect. 
Unscrew the drag knob and see if the grease has gone emulsified with water. Clean and grease drag washers if required. Inox won't hurt components in your reel but will stop corrosion. See how it goes for a couple of sessions


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## hijacker (Oct 26, 2013)

liam8227 said:


> Ken rebuild it yourself. If you kill it then you haven't really lost out. Learned something and you get a new reel.


This is the go...they are pretty simple reels....just lay everthing out in order of disassembley,preferably not all at once!!
take photos at each step so you have a reference if you need to,can be helpful
the bearing that is most likely to seize up first is the the one under the rotor housing,its usually a needle roller setup,
get some oil onto it.

being xmas you could get a new one
theres a guy on www.fishingmonthly.com.au who has a new sustain 3000fg @ $200 :shock: posted,be quick


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## robsea (Apr 7, 2010)

Ring Dunphy's and ask for a quote on a rebuild. Tell them exactly what happened. This info may help you decide. I had a Ci4 submerged for about 40 minutes. Did not do the bucket of fresh but had it rebuilt.
Dunphy's were great and replaced internal bearings etc but the cost was about $120. In terms of cost effectiveness I could have bought a new reel for $200 at the time. Said reel works fine 18 months later.

The Symetre is a trooper of a reel. Take one for the team and see how well it holds up with the treatments suggested.

Cheers


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Professional rebuilds only for me ($65 - $ 85). Beside that, I have six spare reels.

Everyone should have at least two spare.


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Ken while self servicing and commercial rebuilds are correct advice, I have never done this although have dunked reels in salt and freshwater a number of times.

I just unscrew one side plate at the rear a for couple of threads on the screws to create an opening, then using the small 2mm tube supplied on Lanox or Inox insert into the gap and puff some into the inner gears etc, close side plate and spin the reel.

Always used Inox in the past but now prefer Lanox due to the lanolin content, and am still using a Penn [bought new] that has been under a dozen times since 2005 using the kayak., it gets a puff every few months as described above.

Note WD40 and similar will degrease whereas the products mentioned will lubricate the reel and not effect the line.


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## bildad (Jun 20, 2011)

If you ditch it can I have it? I'll pay postage and give you ten bucks towards a new reel.


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## robsea (Apr 7, 2010)

So what course of action did Ken undertake given the poor timing regarding Christmas holidays etc? Any news?


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## mudpat (Feb 21, 2011)

They appear to only cost $100 these days so not worth paying for a rebuild.
Your initial actions were correct and will go a long way to saving it.
The other posts re care are spot on 
I pack my gearbox with grease, no room for water but that wont help the needle bearing, cleaning plus inox/lanox will help that.


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## robsea (Apr 7, 2010)

kraley said:


> I ended up just giving it a soak and re-lubricating it.
> 
> Works fine - still ome of my favourite reels.


Awesome!


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## jbonez (Jul 9, 2013)

They are very tough my 2500 has had a fair bit to drink in its time.


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