# Baitcasters for Dummies... Help



## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

Well I've had a baitcaster sitting here for about 4 years now.
It's a reasonable reel ($100 Mojico/Anaconda special ;-) and a nice rod, Plugger Trion 2-4k loaded with 8lb Power Pro (USA) braid.
I practice on the lawn casting lures about once a month, get birds nests :twisted: , then put it away again  
I have adjusted the brakes etc as suggested, and really have tried. I still f***k it up.
Someone said I should use mono, not braid.
I don't want to use mono, but I'd like to be able to use it for fishing too :lol:
If I don't get my act together, I'll get rid of it.
Every time I look at it, it says "LOSER" to me :lol: 
Anyone got any suggestions, Please ?????


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## koich (Jul 25, 2007)

1.	Put a weight on the end of the line- lure,sinker,casting weight whatever, just make sure it's heavy.
2.	Crank the brake all the way up so the weight doesn't drop when you press the reel release button.
3.	Press the reel release.
4.	Place your thumb on the spool
5.	Start swinging the weight like a pendulum from side to side
6.	You'll start feel the line pulling on your thumb, slowly release your thumb until line comes out, wind it up, do it again.
7.	You'll get game, start really swinging it and releasing your thumb more and more from the spool.
8.	Knock the brake down a notch
9.	Repeat step 5-7
10.	Knock the brake down a notch
11.	Repeat step 5-7
12.	Knock the brake down a notch
13.	Repeat step 5-7
14.	You've just learnt to cast.
Where you're going wrong is you're not using enough the brake enough. The brake is your friend, bc's aren't about distance, they are about accuracy. If you want long casts use a spin reel. Your thumb resting on the spool combined with the brake should stop 99% of the birds nests. Until you're happy with feathering the spool using your thumb just cast underhanded at targets 2m, then 5m then 10 m away. It takes practice but once you nail it it's a skill for life.


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## gonetroppo (Jan 29, 2011)

The way I learn't was with a bucket placed in the yard and then trying to cast into it using a lure with the hooks out. After that I went and tried to cast under bushes around the yard to get used to getting the lure up and in there. Like what was said, it's about accuracy not distance, and getting the brake set right. Set the brake so the lure just drops down and then stops when in free spool, then your ready to go (remember that is the setting for nil wind, when casting into wind, wind the brake on a bit more to compensate), when casting make sure you 'thumb' the spool as it hits the water (or snag, or to stop it hitting a tree etc), and that will stop the birds nests. 
And remember the bait caster fisherman's mantra.. 'Just keep picking!'


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## greeny03 (Jan 1, 2014)

Always remember to that when the lure/sinker hits the water/lawn that stopping the spool is important, if allowed to keep spooling you will end up with a birds nest, over run. Took me a while with bait casters and overhead reels, but now easy as. still love my spinning gear though. 8)


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

This is good info guys. Thanks a lot.
I will start practicing with these things in mind.
I hate not being able to get a fair technique happening, especially when I see other guys using baitasters like they are part of their body, or born with it attached vs. me with 5 thumbs :-(
Am also thinking to maybe put heavier line on the reel, not sure what though ????
Cheers


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## Tim71 (Nov 27, 2013)

OK this is one subject I feel qualified to comment on (new to kayaking but not new to fishing). I learnt on the old ABU 7000 (not really a bait caster) and still use two of them today, and a couple other bait casters, some with braid and some with mono. I have spinning reels for their purpose also.

What is your casting technique, is it a sideways cast or over the top? Casting from the side is much easier to learn because if executed correctly it keeps the line tight throughout the motion, meaning less jerky movements. If you get some slack in there it is all over before you begin. When casting overhead / shoulder you can sometimes get a sudden 'jerk' from the rod tip flicking forwards which initiates the bird's nest.
Think smooooooth, you want everything as smooth as possible, no jerky movements.

Pay attention to trajectory - Try and keep things a little 'flatter' because the drum speed will me more constant / consistent. This will get you started, to see what it's like throughout the cast when your line is in the air but you will need to stop the overrun when it lands, so time that well with the thumb. When you have the feel, add some more height to the cast which will then assist with the landing.
I don't necessarily agree that this type of reel isn't made for distance casting. If I am flicking lures on the beach with my 7/6' ft rod I get more distance than any of my mates with the longer surf rods and spinning reels any day. There is less resistance with a drum reel and when set up correctly it is a beautiful thing! But it's horses for courses.. And no matter how good you become there will still be the odd moment where you say 'Oh Crap' and have to start untangling or cutting.

Braid is just different, I found the tangles were smaller because the line will grip on itself, not necessarily much easier to untangle though.

Best of luck and do not give up! When you master it you will love it and just have that feel. You'll be able to cast like hell in the dark without ever watching the reel. You will know when to abort the cast with your thumb before the spool up even starts. 
And follow the other guys comments on here re practicing they all make good sense!

Cheers


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## labrat (Jul 25, 2008)

2 things:

1) Watch this to make the backlash less frustrating when it happens. Have tried it and it works for me.






2) I have a scanned article that is a baitcaster tutorial - have converted it to PDF using an online OCR program to reduce the file size and sent you a copy via PM.

Feeling your pain.


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## Tim71 (Nov 27, 2013)

Hadn't seen that one before labrat I like it!
And he also must be holding his tongue right can tell by the way he spits :lol:


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

You guys are brilliant  
I'm feeling a whole lot better about this process, thanks very much for the help.
Cheers, till I get back with a "glowing" "most improved baitcaster" report. :lol:


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

Tim71 said:


> OK this is one subject I feel qualified to comment on (new to kayaking but not new to fishing). I learnt on the old ABU 7000 (not really a bait caster) and still use two of them today, and a couple other bait casters, some with braid and some with mono. I have spinning reels for their purpose also.
> 
> What is your casting technique, is it a sideways cast or over the top? Casting from the side is much easier to learn because if executed correctly it keeps the line tight throughout the motion, meaning less jerky movements. If you get some slack in there it is all over before you begin. When casting overhead / shoulder you can sometimes get a sudden 'jerk' from the rod tip flicking forwards which initiates the bird's nest.
> Think smooooooth, you want everything as smooth as possible, no jerky movements.
> ...


Hi Tim,
I actually have an Abu 7000, but only ever used it for bottom bashing.
I have been trying to cast overhead, though I feel I should probably try side casting as well as it seems to be a little less prone to problems ???
I will let you know how I get on asap.
Many thanks for your input.
Cheers, Rod


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## labrat (Jul 25, 2008)

Tim71 said:


> Pay attention to trajectory - Try and keep things a little 'flatter'


When I was learning (actually I still am :roll: ) I found I often planted the lure on the ground a few metres in front of me. Someone advised me to imagine I had to lob it over a house to get to where I was aiming at and I found this worked. It basically makes you release earlier in the cast and although it probably doesn't suit everyone it may be something worth a try if you find you are having the same problem I had.


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## Barrabundy (Sep 29, 2008)

What everyone else has said but expect to progressively get fewer and fewer birdsnests. I can't remember the last time I had one to be honest apart from the odd occasion I've accidentally hooked some vegetation on the backswing....even then my thumb has instinctively saved me from needing to start cutting line.

After a while you'll get used to using one and you'll find you won't even use the brake. I can pick up an unfamiliar reel and pretty much use it straight away, be it a bit more subdued initially, with confidence.

It's not impossible if you keep at it.

......I still can't cast accurately though.


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## anselmo (Aug 26, 2008)

..


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## Beekeeper (Aug 20, 2011)

I haven't noticed on this thread, yet, what I regard as a little gem on the subject... but found it most important when learning to use the over-head reels.

When you punch the lure out, you begin the reel spinning... so much so, that it is actually pushing the line out... 

The reel won't stop spinning of its own accord, consequently will keep pushing out the line...

If your lure is too light to pull away the line that is being pushed out quickly enough, it will result in a bird's-nest.

If the lure is heavy enough, the line will be taken away nicely and result in a fine cast.

The same principle works with bait-casters for stream casting etc, as does with the old 6/1 Seascapes that could cast a metal plug far-far-away into the distance.

I agree with one of the other posts... no matter how proficient you get, there will be a time when you let down your guard, and watch out... Birds-nest!

Aren't they just the pits to untangle! One of the worst you can get!

Hope I've been of some assistance...

Jimbo


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## Tim71 (Nov 27, 2013)

Jimbo I think you are spot on with your comments regarding the weight factor, I should have mentioned that.

You do need to assess what you are trying to cast out. If I am casting a solid lure I just rip in to it, but if casting a big rig with 6 oz sinker and half a slab of salmon I cast a little different because I know it will have more resistance in the air and won't rip the line out as fast and steady as a lure.

The reel size and line size will determine how light you can go with your rig or lure and experience and ability will decide that.

Calcutta 200 Greg, nice reel


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## Beekeeper (Aug 20, 2011)

My mid-water snapper outfit is: 
6ft Penn (PC-6C-1TBM)bait-cast rod, Shimano Corvalus Cvl 200 bait-cast reel, loaded with 30lb Whiplash braid, 30lb Rock Fleurocarbon leader and usually with a 3inch Flat-tail Z-Man Electric Chicken Chicken on a 3/8oz 3/0 TT Extreme Head-Hunter Jig-head, fished mid-to just below midwater.

The weight of the jig-head doesn't really give me much of a weight to cast distances, but who cares? I'm wanting to fish mid-water in 6 metres at most... when there's a big run-in/out, plus a nice wind pushing, I just let out enough line to get the depth, and leave it at that.

Sometimes when I inadvertently cast too far (?) I wind in to suit the depth I need, but that doesn't occur very often.

When I used to land-based fish with the Seascape 6/1 reel, using a heavy metal slug, looooong casts were the norm, then wind like crazy to catch tailor, bonito, etc, but really hoping for bigger better fish that never turned up.

Cheers, Jimbo


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## GuruGrant (Nov 20, 2006)

Nearly bought one but got cold feet, but I think you guys have convinced me to have a go. Simple rule I follow with my limited experience is get that thumb down nice and early. Better too soon than too late.


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## rodrocket (Apr 24, 2012)

Ok, so I've been practicing and have applied lots/most of your ideas, thankyou all.
I am really happy with my results and now feel quite confidenat, though still bury it occaionaly about 2m in front  
If I cast L/H and hold onto the bottom of the rodbutt with my right hand I get much better control with accuracy and release position.
Is that permissable, or is it considered poor form ??? :lol:


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## koich (Jul 25, 2007)

Whatever gets the lure where you want it.


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## Tim71 (Nov 27, 2013)

Nothing wrong with being ambidextrous


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## jbonez (Jul 9, 2013)

I learned to cast on an abu 6500c filled with 20lb mono.

Basically I rig my line up with whatever weight or lure (heavy is best when learning) then I crank the brakes up to full. Put the reel in free spool and then unwind the brake a couple of mm at a time, every time you unwind the brake give the rod tip a lift until it starts to go towards the ground on its own. You basically want a slow drop from the rod tip to the ground. Then cast away. Target a location and then make sure you thumb the spool before it hits the water, when learning try not to cast the whole distance, stop it early. Keep the drop really slow, when you get better you can make it drop faster & it will cast further with less resistance. I also think casting side on is easier when learning then over your head.


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