# Fillet knife sharpening



## sbd (Aug 18, 2006)

How do people keep their fillet knives really sharp? I've got a lot of knives (like all imaginary internet friends), for my kitchen knives I have them professionally sharpened about every 3-4 months because the pro can get an edge on them that I just can't (literally shaving sharp on my Mundials - suspiciously the sharpener is missing more than one finger), then maintain them with a steel. I find though, that he can't get my fillet knives as sharp as I would like them (or even as sharp as they were when new), and after they've been sharpened they're difficult to keep an edge on with a steel (though my technique sucks).


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## keza (Mar 6, 2007)

i have looked at this one long and hard and my conclusion is
IT'S IMPOSSIBLE.

some of those machine things make them sharp but screw the edge of the blade.
what about diamond sharpeners, do they work ?


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## GoneFishn (May 17, 2007)

Try using the bottom of a coffee cup, the unglazed part works really well. Not sure if it'll give you that as new edge but does work. Just run the blade along the surface a few times. I think this is better than a steel as you can give the blade the wrong angle with a steel.


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## Billybob (Aug 29, 2005)

I use an Eze-Lap diamond hone stone. I think once you machine sharpen a fine blade knife it becomes a bit 'soft'.

I bought a good filleting knife a few years ago (cost about $60.00 or $70.00 I think) and I just give it a couple of light passes over with the diamond sharpener before using it.

By the way, a good filleting knife (mine's a Swibo by Wenger) should only have an edge on one side.

I think it gives you a more accurate/cleaner cut.


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## diabolical (Mar 30, 2008)

A belt grinder with a buffing wheel on the other side. This works well to remove shoulders and put a good angle on the blade. Buff with canvass wheel and cutting compound then a light touch with the diamond steel is enough for a good edge.

Never let the blade get too hot by keeping your finger on the back of the area being ground. Dip in water if it gets too hot. I find a polished edge seems to last longer and be sharper.

$150-180 for the belt sander/grinder and $20-30 for the buffing wheel attachment and cutting compound.


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## Astro (Nov 27, 2006)

i use the accu sharp and that works great and is nice and easy to use whilst doing a top job


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## AndyC (Feb 29, 2008)

A good bit of background reading at: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036 I should confess that i'd never read any of this until I went looking for info that might be of use to SBD. But I have always sharpened my own knives, shears and chisels. It isn't rocket science.

I think you owe it to yourself to at least have a go at doing your own sharpening. It really is a pleasurable activity and there's something about creating a fine edge yourself and then using it. It does take time but it is time spent in a pleasurable, civilised kind of a way.

Cheers,

AndyC


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## Brownie (Aug 15, 2007)

Wetstone and steel and a dash of elbow grease.

once a new blade looses its initial edge I spend some time on the wet stone to adjust the angle of the blade making it finer.

And then a hit on the steel to straighten the edge occasionally.

This was the way I was shown when working fishing charters last century some time.

It takes a bit of time initially but subsequent sharpenings are easier and the blade glides through the flesh smoothly when filleting or skinning


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## sbd (Aug 18, 2006)

That's an excellent link thanks AndyC - some very useful tips there.

Diabolical, I've actually got a belt grinder. How do you maintain the angle? Do you run the belt loose? My sharpening guy uses a large (8" I think) flap-sander, because the air flow they generate keeps the metal from overheating.

Same question Billybob. How do you maintain the angle? What angle do you use?

Ditto Brownie, how do you keep the angle? Do you sharpen with the blade pulling or pushing over the stone?

I think part of the reason my sharpening guy can't get them as sharp as new is that they were originally hollow ground, not sure how I could replicate this at home though. I'll try a few of these methods, and the wet & dry/mousepad method in AndyC's link and see how I go.


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## diabolical (Mar 30, 2008)

Really light strokes as the flex is working against you. Finer grit and light strokes and regular quenching to keep the heat down. Some of the butcher knives have a wide backbone and I lay these flat as I prefer fine edges for most jobs. The downside is it takes very little to spoil a fine edge.


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## Bartek (Dec 12, 2007)

One of my filleting knives came with a ceramic sharpener and that keeps the edge honed with just a few stroke prior to use, sharp enough to make me remember to wear my chain mail glove :shock:


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## Brownie (Aug 15, 2007)

sbd said:


> Same question Billybob. How do you maintain the angle? What angle do you use?
> 
> Ditto Brownie, how do you keep the angle? Do you sharpen with the blade pulling or pushing over the stone?


It takes a bit the first time but I hold the blade flat on the stone (right side of blade) with finger pressure on the cutting edge and that edge closest to me ..... I then slide the blade backwards along the stone starting at the tip and to the handle at an angle along the stone (but the blade flat, if you get it) do that for a while (have the stone longways away from you)

I then then turn the stone parallel and do the same to the other side with the sharp edge away from you and going left to right with the knife, again with fingers on or close to the cutting edge.

Its hard to explain without pictures (Next time I touch up my knife I'll take a couple of shots if you want)


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## wedgetail (Mar 27, 2008)

Hi SPD , part of your problem is the knife you are trying to sharpen the Mudal knives never held thier edge very well. my first trade was butchering meat when i started out in the big world at 15 have a talk to your local fishmonger to see what type of knives they use . my preference would be Victorenox good quality 518 stainless the mudals have a higher chrome content than most professional knives this makes them hold a hollow ground edge quite well and look good in the kitchen.
Just a hint if you go the wet stone technique boil it in water until the oil comes out of it first before you use it , then only use detergent and water to lubricate the stone with when you are sharpening your new knife, this will stop the fine metal particals from clogging your stone. You simply was it in hot running water to clean the stone when you are finished .
Cheers Mark ;-)


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## mantabay (Mar 1, 2008)

A quick and easy way to sharpen most knives using a hand held sharpening stone the type with a wooden handle, is to stroke away from you on the top edge of the knife and towards you on the bottom edge. The opposing strokes somehow get a knife good and sharp. This was shown to me by an old French professional fisherman and is very effective.
Theres something about the French and Knives, to them I guess it's some kind of an art.

Cheers T.


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## Brownie (Aug 15, 2007)

mantabay said:


> Theres something about the French and Knives, to them I guess it's some kind of an art.
> 
> Cheers T.


Maybe something to do with the French Revolution and the Guillotine :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## mantabay (Mar 1, 2008)

Yeah nice one brownie, reckon you've hit it on the head there mate !


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## etr420 (Jan 7, 2008)

Basically there's a trade-off. The more stainless a knife is the more expensive it is to manufacture if its going to take a good edge and keep it. If the stainless steel is not top quality, it just won't hold an edge. This is why people pay hundreds of dollars for top kitchen knives.

Carbon steel, the type that rusts, is by far the best bang for your buck, but the rust is a problem.

In salt water I use a Puma fishing knife, which is very hard stainless steel, and fairly expensive. In fresh water, I use cheap but good quality Opinel carbon steel folding knives which are dead easy to sharpen but prone to rust, so I have make sure they're dry after a trip and I keep them oiled.

The best and most foolproof gizmo for sharpening knives yourself - and I've tried quite a few - is the Lansky sharpener:

http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/

I just use a coarse Lansky stone and a fine diamond one, and get edges I could shave with. I use WD40 or sewing machine oil as lubricant. Never use vegetable oil.

Any sharpening method, e.g. electric grinders, that makes the knife blade hot it a no-no.

Many of the dinky gadgets sold in kitchen shops to sharpen knives, e.g. with little ceramic wedges or wheels, will wreck them.

A good knife, properly looked after, will need a few strokes on a steel nearly every time you use it to stay sharp. The kitchen knives that I use daily on a wooden chopping block, get sharpened on a stone only every two or three years at most. Most of these knives are more than 25 years old and will last another 25. I've used the same Wusthof steel for 25 years, too.

Ideally use a wooden chopping board, otherwise plastic. Don't cut on glass, ceramics, steel, rocks etc.

The angle of the edge on the blade is a factor, too. The usual range is between 20 and 30 degrees. I sharpen most of my kitchen knives to 20 degrees, but the heavy cleavers to 30. The larger the angle the more durable the edge. My Puma knife is 30 degrees and the Opinels 20.

Most people would sharpen their filleting knives to 20 degrees, but I must say my favourite fish filleting knife, since stolen, was a small, rigid hunting knife with a 30 degree edge: sharp enough to fillet, not so sharp that it caught on every bone.


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## sbd (Aug 18, 2006)

Thanks Ed, I've been looking at the Lansky system, as well as the Edge Pro system which uses a similar guide rod idea.


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## JimH (Apr 10, 2007)

Trick I have learnt is place the knife on the edge of the bench and hold the (water soaked/lubricatedied) stone at the required angle. Once the knife has been 'restored' to the correct angle, only needs a couple of swipes to maintain. Follow with a steel to keep the edge.

Jim


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