# Yakker Safety - OFFSHORE



## ArWeTherYet

My tip is to do a kayaking coarse with a qualified instructor and or go out with VERY experienced kayakers. Theory is OK, but nothing compared with practical experience.


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## Southerly

Cool, heres my babble.

First up open ocean is inherently dangerous to a small craft such as a yak, yes I know people paddle bass straight, round oz and even accross the ditch to NZ but they are highly experienced paddlers at the extreme end of open water yaking and you can bet their preparation is meticulous. The further offshore you go the greater the objective risks. Always remember it can all go to poo very very quickly in open water. Huey vs yakker, well you know how that will turn out!

In no particular order:

1. A PFD is mandatory, end of discussion.
2. Know how to roll and right your yak and enter it in deep water - practice (fully laden as well as bare)
3. If a mishap occurs stay with the yak (it is 100 times esier to see the you)
4. Understand weather forcasts, if in doubt change venue to somewhere more sheltered
5. Go with a buddy and take communications gear (whistle, UHF etc) - when more than 100 mtrs separates you you are effectively out of contact)
6. Be visible, yaks are very hard to see offshore especially in low light - this is no place for stealth
7. Consider VHF/flares etc if fishing remote areas (a mobile phone in a water proof bag tied to the PFD works in areas with coverage)
8. Tether or lash everything you don't want to loose to the yak
9. Tether anything you will 'really' need in an emergency to yourself (some wear knives, shark shield etc)
10. Go with a local in any new water
11. If that little voice in the back of your head is telling you that things are not right - listen and head in
12. Ensure someone knows where you are going and can raise the alarm if you don't come home
13. Understand that most accidents are a series of small mistakes
14. Be prepared to fish sheltered waters and work your way up, try paddling a safe lake in a really strong wind to undertsand how your yak reacts to heavy weather
15. If you need to negotiate the surf take up surfing first
16. Work on fittness, distances are often greater than they seem and an adverse wind or current can double or tripple the effort

David


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## topgunpete

Read everything above and the remember:

"It is far better to be on shore wishing you were yakking - then be on a yak wishing you were on the shore"

It is generally a sign that things are going pearshaped - so plan carefully and read the previous posts again.


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## Shufoy

This is a long read, but to avoid fines, and possible harm, you must carry these items. A lot of this is relevant to West Australian Rules, but nonetheless, still relevant.

Please note the rules covering Lifejackets, Flares, Epirbs, Bailers, Radios and Radio Licenses. These are most important, and it's best you are clear on these requirements.

As Kayakers, we are often out wide in small groups, hard to spot, and should *take responsibility for our own safety as much as possible to avoid bad press, and disrespect within the Offshore Fishing Community as a whole.*

Western Australian Regulations *Compulsory* requirements for offshore fishing basically are as follows:










More info is as follows:

*Anchors:* - who must carry one?

If you are operating in unprotected waters (outside the waters contained by any breakwater or in any lake, river or estuary other than the waters of Cambridge Gulf or Lake Argyle) you must carry an efficient anchor and line. The anchor must be of a type that will hold in all sea beds and with enough line to suit the depths in which you usually operate. 
Please be aware that a *Grapnel* style anchor is *NOT* considered an effective anchor.

*Bailers:*

Vessels under seven metres may have a bailer instead of a pump.

Depending on the size of the vessel, a strong bucket with two metres of rope attached makes an excellent addition to your gear list. As a safety item, it is useful both for bailing water out and fighting fires.
In the case of a kayak, a large sponge is also sufficient, but a pump is better.

*EPIRB's:*

An EPIRB is a emergency position indicating radio beacon.
What do EPIRBs do?

The EPIRB transmits a signal to a family of dedicated satellites for re-transmitting to ground stations for alerting search and rescue authorities.

Who must carry an EPIRB?

All recreational vessels operating more than two nautical miles from the mainland shore or more than 400 metres from an island located more than two nautical miles from shore are required by law to carry an EPIRB. You are not required to carry an EPIRB if you are operating within the "Metropolitan EPIRB Exempt Area" as indicated by the map below.

EPIRB exempt area:










Types of EPIRBs

The current types of EPIRBs are the analogue 121.5/243 MHz and digital 406 MHz. Both are effective, but the 406 MHz has significant advantage.

* Time: the signal reaches the ground station often within minutes compared with up to five hours with the 121.5/243 MHz.

* Accuracy: 5 km is the typical accuracy compared to 20 km for a 121.5/243 MHz.

* Identifies who is in trouble: 406mHz EPIRBs are registered through the Australian Maritime Safety Authority (AMSA). The recorded vessel details aid the rescue and also minimise false alarms - which are extremely common with 121.5/243 MHz.

**Important note: As of February 2009, the 121.5/243 MHz EPIRB will cease to be monitored - the system will be shut down. Owners of 121.5/243 MHz EPIRBs need to ensure that they replace them with a 406 MHz EPIRB before then.

A lot of boat owners have already made the switch. When the batteries in their old EPIRBs needed renewal they bought a 406 instead. Unfortunately, some people who thought that was what they were buying made expensive mistakes: what they actually purchased were Personal Locator Beacons (PLB).

A 406 EPIRB will have on it the Standard number AS/NZS 4280.1. This means the beacon is designed to operate best when afloat, and will keep transmitting for at least 48 hours.

A PLB, which will carry the Standard number AS/NZS 4280.2, transmits on 406 MHz, but is not required to float and has to transmit for only 24 hours. For its designed purpose it is fine, but its purpose is to fit into a bush walker's pocket ready for a dry land emergency.

When you buy a 406 EPIRB, register it with the Australian Maritime Safety Authority (AMSA). This will ensure that all the details of you and your boat are available to rescuers should you activate the EPIRB. More information on this is on AMSA's website. (external website)

Disused 121.5/243 EPIRBs must be correctly disposed of as they are still capable of interfering with aircraft distress frequencies, and their batteries are a potential pollution problem. Battery World, with outlets throughout Australia, have provided collection bins for EPIRBs at all their stores, and guarantee correct disposal. To locate a convenient Battery World store check their website. (external website)

*Flares:* - who must carry them?

All vessels operating outside protected waters must carry flares. Which type you need depends on how far offshore you go.

For inshore waters (within five nautical miles of the shore), you will need:

* two hand-held red flares or two parachute flares; and

* two hand-held orange smoke flares or one orange smoke canister.

For offshore waters (more than five nautical miles off the shore), you will need:

* two parachute flares; and

* two hand-held orange smoke flares or one orange smoke canister.

If you operate both inshore and offshore you only need to carry the offshore set of flares.
AS/NZ Standard

There are three main types of distress flares approved for use in Western Australia. All of them must be manufactured to either the Australian Uniform Shipping Laws Code or to Australian Standard AS2092.

Red hand-held flares

These are designed for use both night and day and burn for about 45 seconds at 15,000 candle power. Potential sighting range at night is 10-12 km and about 4-6 km during the day.

Orange hand-held smoke flares

These are designed for day use only and have no luminosity. They emit a cloud of orange smoke. Orange hand held flares burn for about 60 seconds. The buoyant canister, which is safe for use in petrol or oil covered water, burns for about three minutes. Potential sighting range by day is 4 km, although this can drop to less than 1 km in a fresh breeze. However, these flares are especially visible from aircraft, even on windy days.

Red parachute distress rockets

These are designed for use both night and day. They project a rocket to 300 metres high and then deploy a parachute-suspended red flare, which burns for about 40 seconds at 30,000 candle power. Potential sighting range is 15 km by day and 40 km at night.
Know how to use them!!!

Flares are best used when you believe there is chance of it being seen. The means used to fire flares vary widely between flare types and between manufacturers. The firing instructions are always printed on the flare, and you should be familiar with your own flares' methods. Hand-held red flares, especially, burn very hot and may spill glowing embers. When using them hold them downwind so that nothing spills into the boat, and tilt them in your hand so nothing burns you.
Handling and storage

Flares should always be readily accessible, stored in a waterproof container, in a place where they don't receive too much pounding in rough conditions, away from dampness and heat sources and readily accessible. Avoid storage above 60 degrees Celsius.

Expiry dates

There will be an expiry date on your flares. This applies to flares used on commercial vessels, but it also gives you good advice. Consider getting more flares when your existing flares reach that date, but keep both old and new. Your flares must be maintained in serviceable condition at all times, check them regularly to ensure they have not been rendered un-serviceable by exposure to moisture. Mildew, or bubbling of paper coatings may indicate this.

*Lifejackets:* - who must carry them?

Vessels operating in unprotected waters (outside the waters contained by any breakwater or in any lake, river or estuary other than the waters of Cambridge Gulf or Lake Argyle) must carry an approved life jacket for each person on board. Each life jacket must suit the weight of the person for whom it is intended, be maintained in good condition and kept in an easily accessible place.
Types of life jackets

* Life jackets and other buoyancy garments are called PFDs - personal flotation devices.

* *Only the PFD Type 1 is acceptable as a life jacket* - Types 2 and 3 are buoyancy vests and are intended for sports such as sailing and water skiing.

* You will recognise a Type 1 by its orange or yellow colour, flotation collar, and reflective tape.

* Type 1 life jackets are bulkier and are designed to keep the body afloat for long periods of time.

* Self inflatable PFD Type 1 Jackets are considerably less bulky than the traditional style of jacket.

* All PDF Type 1 jackets must display a label with the Australian Standards brand and the number AS 1512.

There are three types of lifejackets or Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)

PFD Type 1 (AS1512) This type of lifejacket is required on all boats operating in unprotected waters and is your primary life support device if your boat sinks. They make it very easy to keep your head above water. PFD Type 1 features a buoyancy collar and is designed to keep you in a safe floating position, i.e. with the body inclined back from the vertical, with nose and mouth clear of the water.

PFD Type 2 (AS1499) A PFD Type 2 has less buoyancy than a PFD Type 1 and does not have a collar. It is easy to swim in and is designed for continuous wear during any aquatic activity. A PFD Type 2 is also known as a buoyancy vest.

PFD Type 3 (AS2260) This garment comes in a range of styles and colours, and is an alternative to a PFD Type 2. The PFD Type 3 has a similar buoyancy to that of a Type 2, but is manufactured in a wider range of colours than the high visibility safety colours stipulated for Types 1 and 2. A PFD Type 3 is also commonly known as a buoyancy garment.

*Radio's:* - who must carry one?

* You must carry a marine band radio if you go more than five miles from the mainland shore. The choice of radios is up to you, it can be 27mHz, VHF or HF.

* When at sea, you must have your radio turned on and tuned to the distress frequency.

* For 27mHz, this frequency is 27.88.

* For VHF, this frequency is channel 16.

* All Sea Rescue Groups monitor Channel 88 and VHF Channel 16.

* If your radio is logged on with a shore station such as a Sea Rescue Group, you can stay on the working frequency of the station.

* When boating in the Northwest Cape region, we recommend that you carry a VHF radio. If you have a VHF you require a licence to operate it.

Types of marine radios

There are three types of marine radios:

27 MHz

These are cheap, easy to operate transceivers and are common in small boats. Their range is essentially line-of-sight and they are prone to interference noise. These radios are good for boat-to-boat communications and are monitored, at least during daylight hours, by most volunteer marine rescue groups. The emergency and call up channel is channel 88. Leave the radio on this channel to monitor any emergency traffic and respond to calls. Establish communications on channel 88, and then switch to another channel to have your conversation. Channel 86 is a supplementary distress frequency.
Sea rescue groups monitor the distress frequencies and their own working frequency.

Most 27 MHz radios have a dual watch capability where channel 88 and another channel can be monitored at the same time.

27mHz Marine Radio Frequencies

Channel
(mHz) Use

27.86 Alternative Emergency
27.88 Emergency & Calling
27.90 Volunteer Sea Rescue
27.91 Other Clubs
27.94 Club Events
27.96 Boat to Boat

VHF

These radios are a little more expensive but also easy to operate. Their range is line-of-sight (extended by high aerials and repeater stations) with a very high quality signal. The emergency and call up channel is channel 16. Leave the radio on this channel to monitor any emergency traffic and respond to any calls. Establish communications on channel 16, then switch to another channel to have your conversation. Channel 67 is a supplementary distress channel. Rescue groups monitor the distress channel and their own working channel.

VHF radios have a dual watch capability where channel 16 and another channel can be monitored at the same time.

Licensing requirements

Operators of 27 MHz marine radios do not need to be licensed. Operators of VHF and MF/HF marine radios must hold a *Marine Radio Operator's Certificate of Proficiency(MROCP)*. Courses for this qualification are run by maritime colleges and volunteer groups. Details of licensing can be obtained from the Australian Communications Authority. Encourage others on board to get a working knowledge of the radio for emergency use.

*Mobile phone is no substitute!!*

* Mobile telephones, although useful as a backup communications system, cannot replace a marine radio.

* Other boats in the area cannot hear emergency calls made on mobile telephones. A radio call is broadcast and nearby vessels tuned to the frequencies can provide a quicker response than boats called from the shore.

* Mobile telephones are difficult to locate using direction finding equipment; where as a marine radio is much easier for searchers to locate.

* Marine radio provides better coverage with fewer shadow areas.

* Marine radio batteries are heavy duty and last longer than mobile telephone batteries.

* There is no need to remember phone numbers.

* If your radio is unusable - you are in a life raft, or sitting on an upturned boat - a mobile phone will be most welcome

** Please note for a VHF radio, you need a license!!!!

*Navigation Lighting*

Kayaks dont really come under any of the categories for lighting requirements. Tho for the sake of safety, and common sense, i would suspect we would come under the following description:

Sailing vessels under 7 metres

Sailing vessels of less than 7 metres in length, or vessels being rowed shall exhibit the lights required for sailing vessels over 7 metres in length. If not, they shall have ready for use an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent a collision.

Vessels under 50 metres at Anchor

Vessels less than 50 metres in length at anchor, shall exhibit an all round white light placed where it may best be seen. Anchor lights must always be shown from sunset to sunrise. If you are at anchor or in a busy area, then show additional lights to ensure you are seen and keep a good watch.

*My personal interpretation of lighting rules for Kayaks at night, would be a solid white light, on a pole to ensure all round visibility in night, or any conditions where visibility is impaired. Also when at anchor, a headlamp, or handheld torch as a means of easily signalling an oncoming craft would also be a sensible addition.


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## cruiser

The first thing I do is tell some one where I am going and in my case it is the wife ,if there is a change of plan because of rough conditions etc I ring the mrs and if I cant get get in touch I will leave messages on her mobile and our landline at home .If I ever get stuck out there I dont want the calvary looking in the wrong place

cheers cruiser


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## gezmeister

On the subject of anchors as per the post by shufoy "The anchor must be of a type that will hold in all sea beds and with enough line to suit the depths in which you usually operate".

I tend to mostly use a 1.5kg grapnel anchor. What style of anchor is considered more effective, safer etc..?


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## sbd

gezmeister said:


> On the subject of anchors as per the post by shufoy "The anchor must be of a type that will hold in all sea beds and with enough line to suit the depths in which you usually operate".
> 
> I tend to mostly use a 1.5kg grapnel anchor. What style of anchor is considered more effective, safer etc..?


For offshore work in a yak I'd say that in most situations the safest alternative is not to anchor.


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## Peril

One of the most important considerations is the craft itself.

Is it built for open water? How will it handle when nature unleashes her fury? In general the longer the better. About 4m is a minimum length that should be considered. Also broader is not necessarily better, even though it provides better primary stability. Broader craft get buffeted by waves worse than narrow craft and will not perform well in tough conditions

Has it been modified in any way that will impair its performance for the way you intend to use it? I remember one member buying a yak that had a transducer screwed to the exterior below the waterline, then taking it to Long Reef and having the transducer ripped off at the waters edge, allowing water to enter.

Is it in good condition? Check hatches and stress points regularly. Is the propulsion mechanism in good condition? What will you do if that mechanism fails?

Finally, while its OK to be dependent on electronics to find fish, it is not OK to be dependent on them to find your way home. If you are ever likely to be out of sight of land because of weather, then a compass is a must


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## Shufoy

gezmeister said:


> On the subject of anchors as per the post by shufoy "The anchor must be of a type that will hold in all sea beds and with enough line to suit the depths in which you usually operate".
> 
> I tend to mostly use a 1.5kg grapnel anchor. What style of anchor is considered more effective, safer etc..?


In WA the grapnel anchors arent considered a suitable anchor for the purposes of Marine Regulations.

I have a large hand reel, with 40m of 4mm poly rope, with a 1m length of chain at the end to a shackle. When i head offshore to fish the reefs, i usually take two anchors i can interchange depending on the bottom structure. For sandy areas, i use a "Bruce" anchor, which i find is by far the best hold in sand. http://www.chsmith.com.au/Anchors-&-Anchor-Ropes.html

For anchoring on reef, i use a small reef anchor, the type with the 4mm round bar rods coming out of a short tube. These hold well on reef, and when you need to get them unstuck, the "prongs" bend straight to release. http://www.chsmith.com.au/Anchors-&-Anchor-Ropes2.html

I find the folding grapnel style anchor lots of people use on yaks to have unreliable hold in sand, and constantly get stuck on reef. This way i have the best anchor for the situation, and rarely, if ever have lost one. Mind you, i lost half a dozen grapnels before going this way. Also , with the right anchor out for the bottom, i don't bother with a cable tie arrangement, as you always get them back.

Having enough rope out is SO important when anchoring to be safe. In 10m of water, i would have nearly 25m of rope out, if theres swell, sometimes more. Always have at least 3 times as much as the water depth on your spool just in case, and err on the side of caution, with more out than required to be extra safe. The anchor trolley is also important, make sure the fixings are as far forward and rearward as you can fit on your yak. This will stop the yak broaching under the anchor when theres swell or chop, keeping the nose straight into the oncoming waves, preventing rolls. Also, unless you are experienced, only anchor from the rear in absolute flat conditions, as the bow of the yak is designed to meet oncoming sea, and will ride a lot more stable, again preventing rolls.

In WA we tend to anchor and burley up with baits and lures a lot, its just the way we roll in the west! I prefer to anchor from the rear with big baits, letting them run away from me, in my field of vision, and in the berley trail.


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## ausbass

One thing I haven't seen written up us that all electronic devices should be FULLY charged and pre-paid mobile phones should have suffificent credit for messaging/calling for help.

No use in having a radio or mobile that hasn't the power to last a full session of fishing +.


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## simond11

Carry enough water, preferably with diluted apple juice or weak cordial in a plastic bottle.
Carry some form of energy bars as a backup (no bananas, thanks!)
Ensure you are dressing for the water temperature, not the outside temperature. You can always remove clothing, but you can't put on what you don't have. I always carry a spray jacket in the hull. In winter ensure you are layering, and spend a bit more money buying very good quality thermal clothing that wicks away moisture.
As Peril said, ensure you have an electronic backup. GPS's are great, but a marine type compass is invaluable.
Regularly check your rudder cables and crimps. Over a period of time, saltwater will weaken them. In the unlikely case you snap a cable while out at sea, or a crimp fails, ensure you have spare crimps. Although you can still paddle without the rudder, if other factors are playing against you, then that would be another problem you have to deal with.
Don't go beyond your limits. The ocean is unforgiving and does not tolerate fools. 
Once out on the ocean, use some form of tethering to the kayak. I use a bungee cord attached to my PFD. As someone mentioned previously, better to be attached to your yak. 
Happy kayaking
Cheers

Simon
Prowler 15


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## Peril

simond11 said:


> Regularly check your rudder cables and crimps. Over a period of time, saltwater will weaken them. In the unlikely case you snap a cable while out at sea, or a crimp fails, ensure you have spare crimps. Although you can still paddle without the rudder, if other factors are playing against you, then that would be another problem you have to deal with.


Know how to paddle without your rudder! This applies to pedal craft as much as paddle craft. It means knowing the strokes identified here: http://www.canoe.org.au/?Page=16163&Men ... 15%2F0%2F0


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## headoffatness

eric said:


> If you are bitten, stay calm. Most shark deaths are due to one big hit and then blood loss, which is the normal way for sharks to attack mammals, not a continued frenzied attack, which is fairly rare. If you can, tourniquet and get back to shore.


The sort of first aid that most of us gets taught in Australia doesn't cover the use of tourniquets.. (a) because the first aid competencies are built around providing _first aid_ and the assumption that you'll have access to a hopsital in under an hour(?) (b) tourniquets can cause some serious damage. However given the choice between watching your mate bleeding out in time measured in seconds....

* take the usual steps to elevate the limb, work to try and compress artery against the bone with plenty of steady pressure, packing the wound with as much cloth/bandages as possible. pressure pressure pressure.

* to improvise a torniquet use whatever strong flexible material you can get- on a yak stuff like 25mm seat webbing, shock cord, deck lines etc wider is better. Form a loop at each end of the length and use something like a screwdriver shaft or pliers handles to tighten the torniquet windlass style. You need to use mechanical force like the windlass to get enough pressure- if do something like tightening a belt you wont get enough pressure on the deeper arteries and will only compress the veins.

* feel for a pulse below the torniquet.. if its working you shouldn't be able to feel the pulse.

Take this with a grain of salt as I've never had to do one and my current job doesnt see me practising these sorts of skills. Any medicos or people with tramua experience hwho can shed some more light?


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## Rose

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


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## Geordie

Rose, 
yes very good point about the tether tangle possibility. I work as a comercial diver and it is far better to make up your own tethers for gear so they are exactly the right length and attached in the right place. I have not fully set my new kayak up yet but am working on it.

Headoffatness, (gotta love that name),
regarding the torniquet: the latest thinking is to use a wider strap rather than thin rope or shock chord. The idea is to place a lump of bunched up material, rolled bandage, bit of foam, wet suit etc on the artery pressure point above the wound or severed limb and then put the strap, banadage over to put pressure onto the artery. It is still sort of a torniquet but they seem to not call it that anymore.


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## mark

After my experience on the weekend I have some things that I will be doing and changing. Some may disagree but this is how I'll be rolling.

Leashes: Leashes on rods and are good because fishing gear is expensive to replace. Leashes on paddles are needed so the paddle doesn't drift off when you drop/throw it, however... The ski that I bought second hand had a paddle leash and it was good if I dropped it, but when it comes to the surf entry/re-entry it is absolute puss.

When I was coming back in through Palmy break I got hit out the back break by one of the 20m waves that Ant got hit by. Held on to the paddle and heard the rip of the velcro coming apart. Realised that the kayak was going to make it to the beach alone. So I bounced around and dived under the set of another 4 monster waves, started swimming towards the shore but realised that I wasn't making too much progress, dived under another set of monsters a few minutes later, then looked to my left and saw the ski upside down about 50 metres away. Swam over, flipped it back and headed back to shore.

I reckon that if the leash had of held on, I would have been able to cop a bit of a hammering from the first set, then I would have been able to jump back on and head back in.

The moral of my story is.... Before I go out next I will be going and buying a good leash that has the strongest velcro I can find, and you might like to think of doing the same. I know some people people this creates a tangling risk, but I have always found that when I come off, I come off away from the leash, generally of the back of the ski, probably something I do subconsciously.

Manual Inflating Lifejackets: If you use one of this I recommend doing this now: Go out and get it, unscrew the gas cylinder and then pull the inflating handle. A pin should come up that will be used to puncture the gas cylinder. If the handle gets stuck the pin is probably rusted, and when you are ready to use it you will be pulling on it like a young fella wondering why the hell it won't inflate. It makes the situation even worse as you get tunnel vision, only focusing on the jacket, rather than your entire situation. Learn how to find the tube you blow up with your breath to manually inflate.

I know some people don't like manually inflatable jackets, but I felt a lot better duckdiving under the waves than getting smashed by the white water when the jacket was inflated.

And I can see myself doing a lot more practice in the surf sometime very soon.


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## grumpy2

my thanks to you all for some excellent advice.
As for the comment of learning to CALMLY get back into the kayak when a shark is around :lol: stuff that, I'll walk on water ;-) 
I will be following all of this advice when I get going as I cant wait to get out around the headlands etc for some great fishing.
Damn still 3 months to go till I get my prowler 4.7.
An interesting point is the amount of weight all the extra gear adds to the trip, which is why I have settled for the 4.7.
I weigh 95kg, fishing gear would have to be 10kg, electrics battery etc 15kg-20kg roughly, ice, fish, safety gear, drinks. 150 kg would have to be a safe minimum.
I will just have to have another look at the link for 4.7  and dream.
thanks all


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## Rose

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


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## Muzakeral

Offshore beach launches...learn to read the swell...if your not a local have a yarn to some locals checking the surf...they are a wealth of knowledge on local conditions...weather reading and reports....take not how long it takes for southerlies for example to hit once reported if you have a radio (east coast)...always have an alternative re entry for each type of wind ie NE or southerly........always fish in pairs..!


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## yakyakfishfish

hello i fish on a yak and would like to know if there is anything i can get fined for not having on a yak anything at all


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## eagle4031

superb thread - thanks guys

a really good first aid kit with book


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## Rose

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


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## jokinna

yakyakfishfish said:


> hello i fish on a yak and would like to know if there is anything i can get fined for not having on a yak anything at all


 maritime dude said to me (nsw) offshore yakkers only need a pfd. doesnt have to be a pfd1.


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## FatYak83

Thanks to everyone who has shared their experience and knowledge on this issue. I really think that this has been the most salient and useful thread that I have read on *AKFF* to date. 
Regards,
Ben


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## Boogie

right on guys... this was a good read... we mostly fish the offshore waters in hawaii.. i have written a lot of article on safety over the years and given a lot of classes.. and everything you need to know is in these pages...

i preach is a fully equipped life jacket and wearing it at all times.. here in hawai it is hot most of the time but i still wear my PFD at all times.. the reason being what if i had a stroke or heart attack.. im not getting any youger.. and if fell into the water immobile.. without a pfd i would most certainly would die..

and what if did end up in the water, after a stoke, away from my yak. floating in my vest.. i want to have everything i can on me that can help save my life.. i have a VHF,cell, whistle, and mirror on me at all times.. not a bad idea to be leashed to the yak at all times off shore..

one thing i think that is very important is a pack of flares.. mine are small enough to put in my vet.. but i keep them in he pockert behind my seat...

now your limits, have a float plan, and use the buddy system...

here we say "turn around, dont drown".. there been many times i listend to that gut feeling and went home with out even paddling out.. thanks for the good read and staying safe.. ALOHA


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## HiRAEdd

Regarding anchoring, I'd say don't.

I've done it, regretted it, lost anchors and endangered myself in the process. Current is the real killer. But even without a strong current, you're generally in deep water and you need to carry a lot of rope to get the required angle. You then have to bring it up and stow it safely. It's just another thing you have to worry about in an environment that is very unforgiving.


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## eagle4031

upon checking the south Australian marine safety regs i found that kayak are required to carry flares in unprotected waters,which means any waters subject to tidal flow and from the low water mark
this is a recent change
check out the marine safety site


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## Ocean67

Great ideas in this thread, especially some of the info regarding regulations in the various states. I see that NSW is rather relaxed regarding kayak and canoe use. Seems PDFs are the only legislated requirement



> Lifejackets
> 
> Lifejackets are required to be worn when paddling more than 100 metres from the nearest shore on enclosed waters and at all times on open (ocean) waters.
> 
> The operator of the canoe or kayak is responsible to ensure that all persons on board comply.
> 
> Other safety equipment is not required, with the exception of a torch, between sunset and sunrise. Additional equipment is recommended for activities such as sea kayaking.


Basic Info

http://www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/sbh/othe ... anoes.html

Detailed Regulations

http://www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/rec_boating/sbh_pdf.html

I'm yet to purchase my first yak, so off-shore fishing will still be a way off for me. I'll be spending a lot of time paddling sheltered waters to start with and will only venture to sea once I'm confident I have the minimal level of skill required before I get out of my depth (literally). Safety is something I try to take seriously, so threads like this are welcome sources of information.


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## kayakone

Ocean67 said:


> Great ideas in this thread, especially some of the info regarding regulations in the various states. I see that NSW is rather relaxed regarding kayak and canoe use. Seems PDFs are the only legislated requirement.
> 
> I'm yet to purchase my first yak, so off-shore fishing will still be a way off for me. I'll be spending a lot of time paddling sheltered waters to start with and will only venture to sea once I'm confident I have the minimal level of skill required before I get out of my depth (literally). Safety is something I try to take seriously, so threads like this are welcome sources of information.


IMO a sensible attitude Ocean67. Obviously a man who places a high value on life (read the whole of the Safety section).

trev


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## pistolyak

Is it a good idea to tether yourself to the kayak somehow? I have heard reasons for and against this.I am a new kayak fisherman and will be starting off in lakes then hoping to work my way to the ocean.


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## kayakone

pistolyak said:


> Is it a good idea to tether yourself to the kayak somehow? I have heard reasons for and against this.I am a new kayak fisherman and will be starting off in lakes then hoping to work my way to the ocean.


This is a contentious issue. Use the search function to look for previous discussion on the subject. In the meantime, an investment in skills training is a worthwhile pursuit. I will be doing another Safety Day in Brisbane in summer, but Dru is planning one in Sydney soon, which may be closer.

Alternatively, contact Australian Canoeing for accredited instructors near you. This is money well spent, and can not only save your butt, prevent paddle injury, and becoming a statistic, but is something that will benefit you for the rest of your paddling/peddling days.

trev


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## pistolyak

Thanks Trev.I will look for a trainer in the Port Macquarie area.


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## dru

Response was ambivalent. On a SIK you are attached anyway, so it isn't considered very often. On SOTs it needs reference to the conditions. There was a recent fatality in the US on skis on the great lakes. A tether would have improved safety level. The reluctance is only really related to the surf zone where you may wish to release the SOT rather than being dragged behind.

You are unlikely to have this problem to the same degree when you are beyond the surf zone, so I'd suggest considering it. Surfing or ski style leg leash would be a start point.


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## dru

Weather conditions #1

Wind impact on steering: Most yaks are designed to weather-cock - tend to point into the wind. (there are exceptions that lee-cock - point down wind) Or at least the designer will want "neutral handling" but it will still weather in proportion to building wind conditions.
Wave impact on steering: Running with the waves, yaks will tend to broach (or turn side on to the wave). This is most obvious in surf, but will kick in on wind waves too.

Steering the yak is a challenge that is in direct proportion to these conditions. Turning the yak around to come home can be a handful. We occasionally get threads "Where do I get a bigger rudder" which may be due to this experience. (Though necessarily  ) A bigger rudder may give a little more resilience (but will slow down the yak) and a faster yak will have more resilience. But sooner or later the conditions will be experienced. Add to this the bounciness of the waves taking the rudder completely out of the water - *if you are heading into open waters it is wise to know how to handle and steer the yak without a rudder.* Peril gave a link earlier to paddle strokes that do this. The so-called _technical strokes_

It can be scarey when you go to turn around for home and find this harder than imagined.
_Rear rudder_ This tends to be instinctive. Perhaps overdone. But you paddle blade behind your body to help steer - used a lot in surf. Wont help much if you are into the wind, great downwind.
_Sweep stroke_ Also tends to be instinctive. a sweeping stroke in an arc around the paddler to give turning motion to the yak. May not be enough on it's own.
_Forward rudder_ Hard to describe but you get the blade in front of you and angle it to give a turning force. Try it in still water, going turtle isnt unusual for your first couple of attempts.
_Feathered bracing_ Think of a sweeping stroke continuously back and forward with the blade flat on the surface. Then start using bits of sweep thrown in to help turn.
_sideways_ Hard to explain in text, but once it's going it can be adjusted to add turning motion.

Once these strokes become instinctive, you can start blending them together for true rudderless yak control. If the above description seems inadequate (and I think it will) then find someone to show you. There are excellent kayak trainers in every state. Until then off shore should either be avoided, or at least make sure you understand the weather predictions to avoid being in conditions that get outside your comfort zones.


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## dru

Weather conditions #2 - Reading waves

No, not surf, waves. In the open ocean waves build with the wind. Hence known as wind waves. It takes very little time for wind waves to develop once the wind is blowing. So these conditions will equally effect closed waters and impoundments. Once the wind blows to around 12-15 kn the wind waves will "white cap". This depends on how much "fetch" the wind has... ie how long the wind has contact with the water. So on East coast Australia, a westerly has very little fetch on the coast. So once the waves are white capping it could quite possibly be 20kn. But mostly we see SE, NE or busting southerlies which will follow the rules. White cap is 12kn to 15kn. (This will be the case irrespective of people quoting Seabreeze!)

Wind waves have not had enough time to "build" so they will be slower than swell/surf, and much closer together. In open water it means we can catch them (catching "runners") and they are consistent enough to be able to run from one to the next in a fast yak. They are not as big or as powerful as the swell.

In enclosed waters - here I am talking Moreton Bay (and thinking PPB and impoundments). The height of the wind wave is impacted by water depth. In Moreton bay you get nasty vertical chop which can be 1.0m tall. These are horrible conditions to be paddling.

On open water far out in the blue the wind waves continue to be pushed by a constant wind. The waves build and combine becoming further apart, taller, more predictable, faster and more powerful. This is how swell is developed. When the wind dies, the swell keeps going, slowly resizing until a new wind builds, gradually creating a new swell in a different direction.

On the coast we experience this as "Primary" swell (the current built swell and the surf); "Secondary" swell ( the old swell die-ing off); and the wind waves. This condition is what you will see on NSW coasts. In Qld particularly in the SE we are protected by Stradbroke/Moreton and Fraser so may only see two wave patterns, Primary and wind waves (the southerly swell doesn't get past the islands). In Sydney, the three wave patterns hit cliffs, and rebound creating 6 waves patterns. When you hear reports of "rogue" waves it is likely not a rogue, but the various waves coinciding to give plenty of height.

Willyweather, Windfinder, Seabreeze do not represent these issues. They take data from the BOM plug it into a computer algorithm and spit out results as one single wave pattern. People I know have contacted their techs to ask what the algorithm does, on the whole they have no idea. I suggest these sites are fine for quick overview, but for detail you need the BOM and to check the interactive wave charts.

To the yakker - swell is important at launch and exit - ie the surf. Also important over breaking reefs. Mostly though, the important waves are the wind waves. Can be fun as runners, but they start whitecapping much earlier than the swell which leads to different issues. And in the form of shallow water chop are absolutely no fun at all. And the wind waves will shift just as quickly as the wind does. So changing wind patterns need to to be known before you launch.


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## paulo

Good topic
My 2c on gear carried

*On me*
Hook Knife
Dive knife
Compass
SIgnal Mirror
whistle
VHF in a wp membrane
Phone in a wp membrane
Dive sausage
Food bar
Emergency water satchels
small flares
PLB
Sunscreen Stick

*On the boat*
Flag\light
water
Tow rope
Utility knife
paddle
Safety dry bag with flares, vsheet, spare compass, light, whistle, rope

*In the hull*
Drybag with sprayjacket,wp pants, gloves, sunscreen,spare hat & sunnies
More water
Sponge
Manual bilge pump

*In the first aid kit*
Tourniquet
super glue
bandaids
bandages
emergency blanket
Pain killers
Sea sick pills
Food bars

*In the toolkit*
mirage drive spares
spanners and allen keys for all boat\mirage drive fittings
spare rudder and other sacrificial pins
rudder line rope and bungy


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## dru

Weather conditions #3 Daily coastal shift.

One thing that all the weather predictors miss - the daily change in coastal conditions. Basically (again talking the east coast) in the couple of hours either side of sun up, the land has cooled and this tempers locals winds. From mid afternoon the opposite happens and the wind builds on shore, and moderates off shore. For racing yachties they will head out to sea for the morning, then come in closer for the afternoon. The BOM marine data tends to be based on readings approx 50km out to sea. So they don't necessarily pick it up. The BOM "enclosed waters" does better but often seems to miss the morning quiet. Same then happens to all the weather webs which are based on BOM data.

So expect things to be more quiet in the morning, but if the prevailing conditions and westerly or southerly they may have it right when they predict big morning winds. We can expect it to be much quieter in the morning... but reassess if that isn't the case!


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## dru

Weather conditions #4 Putting it together.

I've spent time in the estuaries building my skills. Can read the wind and wind waves well with this experience. Spent a little time in estuaries that are open to the sea, looking at swell conditions which may or may not enter my fishing areas. I've had training so have been shown how to control the yak without the rudder. Spent time working on that training.

Getting ready for that coastal fish trip I've checked Willyweather which suggests a wind from the SE at 10kn building to 15kn. I'm guessing that the morning will be quiet, but will build during the day, probably want to be off the water before the wind waves start white capping. Willyweather gives me swell at 1.5m, it's enough info to think I can live with these conditions.

Check the BOM and read a primary swell at 1.0m from the south. Secondary swell from the east at 0.5m to 1.0m. Seas or the wind waves could be about the same with the wind from SE. There is a change with heavy southerlies at 20km+ during the afternoon. I dont expect WillyWeather or the BOM to get the timing right on the change. But at least the BOM will update if they get the timing wrong. Check before I head out to launch. So I overlay this info onto google earth to think about how those wind and wave directions are going to impact my launch and exit points.
x At Longie launch and exit point is protected from Southerly primary swell and easterly secondary swell. It is also protected from the SE wind and wind waves. Launch looks good!
x When fishing past the bommie/point I'm no longer protected from any of these conditions, but it is the wind and wind waves I am really watching. If for whatever reason I get caught in that SE wind waves, what is my back up plan? Easy enough, down wind for a beach landing a few km up the road from where I really want to be. 
x What if the southerly hits? Not so good. The wind waves may not take me to shore. I could push my luck running a broad sea (waves coming side on) to end up pretty much in the same place as my B plan. But the southerlies are big. Better to ensure I'm off the water before then. Certainly be ready to push for home in the slightest indication of a shift.
x Note that if it is low tide, and that easterly swell was bigger... I might not want to be anywhere near the reef. Swell can break into surf there.

OK, possible entertainment later on in the day, perfect launching so a couple of hours should be a perfect day. I have a B plan. And I have a main plan.

At the launch point there are a couple of extremely experienced yakkers with binoculars looking back to the land. Umm-ing and ah-ing. What the hell have I missed? Local weather cells. In Brisbane storm cells tend to build during the day, move west, bounce off Toowoombah then head to the coast for mayhem. Here in Sydney a series of storm cells are building and threatening to break on the coast in the morning.

First note: the experienced guys are 50/50. That means I'm out. Yes I'm wasting a perfect morning but I'm out. 
Second note: how do you check this? The BOM radar. 99 times out of 100 it will show nothing. Great. But when it does look out.

Local knowledge helps, but the weather information is available and not hard to read if you look for it.

There is never an excuse for poor planning.


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## Salty Dog

Beware of & watch out for bommies. I am not terribly experienced offshore but I have enough sense to know that shallowly submerged rocks combined with current & waves are bad news. I have always given them a wide berth despite the potential for fishing. I would be more inclined to sit at a distance & cast to them than try & sit close to them if you decide to fish them.

The same goes for rocks. I'm not going to preach to the experienced guys who might know their limits but for those that aren't that experienced, please don't put yourself too close to rocks...weird currents & waves that you may not be used to combined with powerful waves & big hard things that will not move if you get pummeled into them.

Another thing I tend to do, (as a fairly inexperienced offshore kayaker) is to set my drag pretty light. If you are inexperienced & set your drag really heavy & something big hits your line, you might follow it, the same if you accidentally snag the bottom. Again, I'm not preaching to those who are experienced & skull drag monster kingys up from the depths regularly.

The last one is something I have thought to myself. There must be a real pessimist in my head somewhere, because I have sometimes thought that I should be carrying a compass with me, just in case everything goes to sh!t, I could still head west & eventually find land, (obviously different for those not on the East coast). I haven't acted on it yet, but I think if I start going a bit further offshore, I just might.


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## kayakone

A compass is a good idea Adam.

Most of the sea kayakers carry one, and not just for the purpose of travelling to a new location, but because you can be 'whited out' by rain or fog, and lose sight of land and consequently all sense of direction. That has happened to me a few times in Moreton Bay. Some will say, "but I have my GPS." I say, "electronics can die." A small marine compass, or even a Silva compass, will always get you to land safely.


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## billpatt

x2 with the compass. A very simple and cheap device that could save you a lot of heart ache in the right conditions.
Like Trev said, I have also been just out from Wello, no more then 1km when the rain hit, and you could not see anything further then 50m.

They are also very good at night.


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## keza

Don't get set in your ways.
It is great to be prepared for anything but when and how you use your safety gear is what will save you.
I usually carry a tether but would only tether myself if the wind was strong and I thought I couldn't swim back to the yak if needed.
My paddle is always tethered but I undo this is surf. As pointed out above, there are fores and againsts for this but only experience with help you decide what is right for you, so if you intend to enter in surf then play in it first. A friend of mine went for a paddle on my yak in some small surf and came back with a rope burn around his neck from the paddle leash. (did you know you can redo the coils with a hair dryer  ).

I also tether my VHF, PLB and mobile to my pfd. If possible to a loop inside the pockets.
I haven't tethered my knife but probably should.

Don't be in a hurry to get on the water (can we help it), launching around the rocks you need to watch several sets before you pick your moment. I couldn't count the number of times that I have started the day soaked from the chest down, thinking where the hell did that come from. I've seen others pushed back on to the rocks and their day ends as quick as it started.
Watch someone more experienced come in or out first. If they are nice they will wade out and help you when you come in. Otherwise they will at least get the camera profit from your misery.

Flag. This has become my most important item. Ask any boatie what he thinks of your flag and you will never go on the water without one again. Use orange not green, it stands out much better on the water.

On bigger trips I take one of those $10 mini air horns. I jammed it in a piece of hollowed out pool noodle and velcro it on to a rod holder. I think it is a bit close to my ears if it's on the pfd.


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