# Kayaking trip through the NT - Part 5



## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

(Note: photos in this issue are best viewed on a monitor with minimum 1024 x 768 resolution.)

*Part 5 - Big rivers and big dreams*
Four days of oppressive heat at the Limmen had made a large dent in my water supplies and with another assault planned on new grounds under similar temperatures, the possibility of running dry was becoming a reality. 'Fresh' water was readily available upstream of the Limmen crossing however I wasn't keen to drink what is basically an unflushed pool of protozoa shuffling to and fro with the tides. Boiling before consumption is an option but in all my bush trips I've never had to boil/treat anything as I consider it a waste of time when basic 'boy scout' skills will avert a dose of crypto or giardia.

My next destination actually incorporated part of the same river I was leaving. Twenty kilometres downstream finds the junction of the Cox River, an area with enormous fishing potential given the amount of rock structure available plus the attractiveness of a dual influx system. Rather than attempting a back-breaking 40km round trip to paddle it from the causeway as I did one year, I now follow a track leading to the same place. This track comes off the road to the _Limmen Bight River Fishing Camp_ established a further 12km downriver from the Cox junction.

When my wheels touched the turnoff to the junction this year, I realised it hadn't been driven for some time. A 30cm termite mound was propped up in the way ahead of a fallen tree no-one had bothered moving. The bulk of the path consisted of a cattle trail pock-marked by countless hoof prints laid down during wetter times. Tall, dry grass separated them that luckily, didn't produce any 'bumper bending' stumps. Once reaching the track terminus I desperately wanted shade and spent an hour brush cutting and clearing ground to get a position offering the best cover. I'm very fussy when it comes to selecting a site and will often spend hours 'fine-tuning' my abode to make it as homely as possible.

*A*








The Cox River causeway above is located 21km from the Limmen crossing, very near the turnoff to the _Limmen Bight River Fishing Camp_. In Oct 1999 I had a nice little stay here on the northern (left-side) bank. Today, the path I once followed to reach it has vanished under sand, erosion, debris and grading. Most rivers in the Gulf normally have a clearing near their causeway to bunk down on but this is/was the first I'd seen which had been neglected.

*B*








The campsite at the Cox River junction is set relatively high and back from the water so there is little chance of anything crawling up from the liquid to surprise you. In this image you can see where I cleared and raked the brush to obtain some precious shade. While accomplishing this I managed to arouse the local 'meat-ants' and by afternoon the pests were swarming around the car creating havoc. The river is in the background, down a 4WD track covered in more highly strung meat-ants.

*C*








The Cox River meanders 10km upstream from this point to its terminus at the road crossing shown at image A above. The wide tidal bar in the centre of the photo (covered during high water but exposed on low) makes navigation impossible for motor craft. Yaks need to be careful here as well as the rock is sharp and jagged and easily gouges plastic. Once through, the river is all yours to explore. Angling wise however, the Cox has been a disappointment. On appearance some of the deeper banks and pools should fabricate success but to date I've never landed anything decent there. At least the scenery compensates for limp lines, especially in the lower reaches near the bar where the river forms a type of delta around a number of appealing grassy islands. I did the entire 20km return trip from camp this year and didn't get a touch. If thinking of paddling the Cox, definitely keep wide of the extensive reeded sections where crocs like to reside and can't be seen.

*D*








Viewed immediately to the left of the above image, you can see where the Cox moves out to greet the Limmen in the background. I dragged lures all around here but couldn't get a strike despite the amount of structure and baitfish about. This area simply oozes potential and I've compiled reports from people who have had a lot of success fishing it. An obvious concern in an environment where two rivers connect is the saltwater crocodile. During 2001 when I last paddled here I repelled what would have been a fatal attack from a very large and cunning beast while making a left-side track past the island in this photo. While exploring the district over those next few days I encountered many other monsters but managed to avoid further conflict.

*E*








Finding fish by yak in the Gulf becomes increasingly difficult when the rivers widen, the banks turn shallow, and structure disappears. This group of rocks in the Limmen about a kilometre downstream from the junction make things a little easier by offering ambush zones to predatory fish on the right tides. Yakkers normally have to 'run the gauntlet' of saurians to reach them but once past the hazards some good fishing can be had. Keeping a good distance from the bank is the safest way to go here. On this day I had to fire several times to ward off a potential killer which made a challenging approach towards the boat. Another, smaller animal took position 150 metres from the rocks while I was moored there and surveyed me for a long time before moving off.

*F*








I picked up this nice barra spinning from the island but another hour of solid casting couldn't produce a second, despite several more being seen hovering around the edges. Sometimes it's hard to predict whether the fish will be feeding on the run in/run out/top of the tide/ bottom of the tide etc and it can become extremely frustrating during a session after months of planning to actually be there. Moments after landing the barra I noticed three tinnies from the fishing camp zooming upriver towards me. As they passed the rock I held the 80cm fish up show them (okay, to brag!) before releasing it.

*G*








The weather in the Gulf can sometimes turn very nasty when least expected. On the third day I had planned an excursion upstream to fish a specific creek in the Limmen and while making the trek, pulled up on another small island to have a cast. Moments later, the river turned from polished glass to this mess as a severe wind front suddenly thumped me. I waited a long time for the gale to abate before turning back into it, considering the soon-switching tide which would sharpen the waves and throw them easily over the bow. When you toss in the fact that this place is prime crocodile real-estate, the risks of getting out of there without incident greatly escalate.

*H*








Many hours went in for the few fish I caught around the junction. Here's a tasty morning salmon landed from the rock, which I took back to camp for lunch to give me strength for the 20km Cox paddle. The meat ants easily picked up the scent of cooked fish and on returning to base late that afternoon, found they'd completely overrun it. Flies and ants are my two greatest nemeses on these trips and there is never a shortage of either to deal with. A campsite will often be determined by where the trails and nests are positioned.

*I*








The Cox is a scenic river to explore and one day I _will _catch a trophy from it! Pictured here about a kilometre short of the causeway is one of the deviations it makes around an island. I actually found it quite nostalgic paddling the entire length because I hadn't done it since 1999 and enjoyed recreating the memories from that past exciting excursion. The river dealt me a nasty predator then but on this day they weren't as big or aggressive.

*J*








Fogs are extremely common around the Gulf and create an eerie perspective on things when conditioned to clear skies and heat. During this morning at the junction a real 'pea-souper' moved in and completely blanketed the area. Compare the image of the Cox bar here to 'C' above. It didn't happen on this occasion, but the phenomenon becomes entirely surreal and prehistoric when a big saltie is seen moving across over the water through the mist.

*K*








As the fog slowly lifted, it appeared as though the land had been put under the spell of a solar eclipse. Twenty minutes later, the sky had cleared and the effect lost.

*Summary:*
Sadly, the fishing around the junction wasn't as exhilarating as I had experienced in 1999 and 2001. I have proven to myself many times that the upper reaches of tidal rivers nearer the headwaters (i.e. the road crossings) which are normally inaccessible to all but paddlers offer the better prospects. The Cox/Limmen junction is a big area that creates even bigger dreams when knowing its immense potential. It's a beautifully wild segment of Australia and an exciting place to spend a few warm days. Obvious dangers exist but I find the glaring risks of paddling areas such as this augment the thrill of searching out trophy fish. I didn't cover all likely regions accessible from the junction this year because I knew the bite wasn't on and envisaged that I'd save myself many hours of unnecessary paddling. Writing these words, I now wish I'd put in a bit more time and effort but in reality I knew I was burning myself out physically and didn't mind 'taking it easy'. Simply being a part of it made me happy enough.

I had planned to wrap things up in Part 5 but decided that the closing few days and the final river of the trip deserved a post of its own. *Part 6 will definitely finish the journey off.
*
*L*









_My Friend, Google Earth. Doesn't this image of the junction just make you want to go there and explore!_

(For those wanting to catch the earlier action, here's the link to Part 4: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=21263#p228243 )


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## yakfly (Jun 8, 2006)

once again top story and pics mate


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## sbd (Aug 18, 2006)

This should be a book Rick, amazing reading & pics.

What sort of rifle do you carry? Do the crocs turn tail at the bang? Can I carry one at Longy :shock: ?


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## zipper (Feb 27, 2008)

SOMEONE PUT THIS MAN IN A MAGAZINE!
great reports murd, always read and look forward to your NT reports


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## shiznic (May 14, 2008)

thanks again for sharing your amazing adventure, great photos also.


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## Zed (Sep 18, 2006)

Woo-HOO! Part 6 imminent!

Thanks murd. I would never get to experience this w/o your travelogue.


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## DougOut (Dec 31, 2006)

another great read Murd .... thanks  
that pea-soup would make a welcome change from feasting on Barra and red claw every day ;-) 
not to mention from the harsh NT Sun as well


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## bongorust (Jan 31, 2008)

What? You didnt get any happy snaps of the Dino-Lizards tryin to get ya? Soft!! :twisted:

Na, just messin. You've done & seen more than most would in 2 lifetimes


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## ARK (Nov 18, 2008)

Great pictures, and great reports. You are a very, very brave man to fish those waters in a kayak :shock: , something I will never do, I'll use a tinnie, the biggest one I can ;-)


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## Mustang (Jun 6, 2008)

Well done Murd Great report, my yak would have to be 5 meters wide and 10 long before i hit the water.
I have fished the Mary and the South Alligator all in tinnies and had some Kleenex moments... But good stuff...
Look forward to the next report


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## melbourneandy (Apr 21, 2008)

Another great report mate, really look forward to reading these. Sounds like a real adventure!


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## ELM (Jul 14, 2008)

Excelent read again Murd, always look forward to them. Thanks.


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## YakCult (Nov 4, 2008)

As usual murd - a ripper of a story so far & your superb photography!!  
Been looking forward to this one......
A great read!!!  
Many thanks.....


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## tobes (Jul 8, 2008)

pleeese keep the photos and the stories comeing. I am so so so so jealous.stay safe and may the fish gods keep smileing on u


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Rick your reports carry us to places most will never see and so enjoyable to read


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## joey (Jul 5, 2008)

Another exciting read Murd.

Its interesting, I never would have thought there would be fog in that part of the country.


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## BATMAN (Mar 28, 2008)

Murd for PM! LOL!

Bush Tucker Man, The Croc Hunter, Croc Dundee and Kayak Fisho all in one!

awesome stuff!


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## BATMAN (Mar 28, 2008)

Murd for PM! LOL!

Bush Tucker Man, The Croc Hunter, Croc Dundee and Kayak Fisho all in one!

awesome stuff!


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## murd (Jan 27, 2008)

joey said:


> Another exciting read Murd.
> 
> Its interesting, I never would have thought there would be fog in that part of the country.


Joey, I believe the fogs are part of the 'Morning Glory' weather phenomenon which happen in the Gulf from time to time. Sometimes it will actually 'rain' when those fogs hit. Really weird to say the least.

Rick


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## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

It certainly looks very fishy there, shame it was quiet for you.
Beautiful part of the world though.


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## fisherdan (Apr 17, 2007)

You're the real deal Rick.


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## fourbee4 (May 6, 2008)

Murd,

Another great read. Thanks for sharing.

Where's the next big road trip??

Cheers
Andy.


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## Duane (Oct 20, 2007)

Thanks Murd, As usual I'll be hanging out for the next episode !


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## Jay (May 26, 2006)

hey I've camped at that exact spot under those trees at the coxs. I camped there with my grandparents for 5 weeks. Its a beautiful spot. I did that last year and those rocks a 1km downstream from where the coxs joins the limmen we called chambers rock and i caught my 2n biggest fish there at 80cm. It was also my first barramundi.
Sry it sounds like this is all about me but i was just excited to see someone else had camped there. In 5 weeks we only saw one grop of campers and they were my grandparents friends.


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