# Broken flush mount rod holder



## mackyak (Jun 26, 2012)

Hi,
Can I get a bit of advice on how to fix a broken rod holder on my kayak. I was out offshore for the second time yesterday and caught a silver trevally about 25cm on my bait jig. I send it back out on my big rod and about 10min later something hit it that hard that it stripped one of the screws out and cracked the top plate of the plastic flush mount rod holder. I was fishing with no drag on the reel but it was a 6.5 inch alvey and I think it was a combination of the speed that the fish hit the bait combined with the resistance of the heavy spool. Didn't hook up unfortunately.

Question is what is the best thing to do now? I can buy another rod holder that is the same style for about $20 but if I do - how should I mount it so that it doesn't happen again?

Since one of the screws stripped out I'm guessing I will need to use an oversize screw or bolt with a washer or perhaps rivets. Perhaps some kind of plate on the underside of the plastic to strengthen?

I notice also that there are stainless steel rod holders. Has anyone fitted these to their kayak and are they any better? They would definitely be stronger but not sure if that is such a good thing as it may transfer the force to the plastic of the kayak instead.

Thanks,
Mark


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

Can you post some photos Mackyak?


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## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Mark

Can you access the underside to reinforce the area? Quite a few of the lads have used cutting board on the underside to spread loads, or consider using large stainless washers.

I think a few of the plastic rod holders are weak. I fitted one to my BFS behind the seat for a long handled net, and just my leaning back and contacting the net cracked the holder (it was a $ 6.50 one from BCF).

If you want structural surety I'd go for the stainless ones, even though they are a lot more money. Definitely go up in bolt/screw size as well. You don't want to go losing good fish like that again.

trev


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

Mark if it is only one screw that stripped out, remove the holder entirely, and on the damaged hole just weld the plastic closed again with a soldering iron it will not be visible under the holder flange so melt in some other plastic [any colour] if you have to from an ice cream container or similar. You can rescrew an identical holder in place again using screws [no pilot hole], and on screw jobs I do not feel you gain anything with backing.

If however you can access the underside of the deck, change to nuts and bolts with oversize washers snipped [on one edge] and simplest, or cut a plate from a cutting board.

Personally can see no gain in going to the s/s holder, *on any new holder be sure to seal the drain hole in the bottom.*


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## mackyak (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks guys just attached some photos. Yeah stupid me just realised that I can't access the underside so I can't really reinforce it. Is there any thing to be gained by rivets? If not should I at least try to get an oversized screw to bite better? I didn't realise you could just melt an icecream container to fill the hole, that would make for an easy fix. Just worried it will be weaker and the same might happen again.


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## simonsrat (Feb 13, 2009)

split tail rivets have a large surface area when they are squeezed. These might suit your application.

cheers,

S


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## scater (Nov 24, 2007)

I'd replace the holder and construct a backing plate from cutting board. Get some stainless bolts and add a blob of all-clear to each hole as you put the bolts in. I hate self tapping screws on yaks and only use them when I have no access to the inside of the hull. They are particularly problematic on rod holders.


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## Dodge (Oct 12, 2005)

mackyak said:


> If not should I at least try to get an oversized screw to bite better? I didn't realise you could just melt an icecream container to fill the hole, that would make for an easy fix. Just worried it will be weaker and the same might happen again.


Mate it wont be weaker once it cools will be as new, as long as you blend the plastic together while it is melted and soft., when you have filled the screw holes you can use same size screws....if you live near the GC bring it over and I will do it for you while you wait, no cost.

Here is a welded hole on a keel repaired with other plastic, original query and the cure
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38807


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## Ado (Mar 31, 2008)

Self tapping screws are unlikely to cut it on their own. It looks like you can't reach into the hull from the nearest hatch so bolts and washers won't work either.

Maybe you could make a backing plate (or two to fit through the hole) made of thicker plastic. This could be glued inside the hull below the self tapping holes with All Clear or the like. Then place the new rod holder into the hole and screw through the hull into the backing plate. That may hold better.

Alternatively try drilling holes and gluing nuts and washers inside the hull and bolt it down. Simpler again could be to drill holes and use bolts and washers inside the hull and screw it down with nuts on the outside.


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## Feral2 (Jun 14, 2012)

I'd reckon your were very lucky not to have taken a swim.
A Hit big enough to do that to a flush mount would have been huge!


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## keza (Mar 6, 2007)

Fishtail rivets are pretty strong but you could glue a large washer inside after drilling the hole for the rivet.
I have done this and it adds a lot of strength.
The bolt from the inside (as Ado) mentioned would work well too.
I would araldite the washer to the bolt and then all clear that to the inside.
If you cut the bolts to length, you could use a dome nut so you don't have any sharp edges.

Pity they don't make a washer with small spikes on one side, so it would dig into the plastic as you tightened it and couldn't twist.


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## Zed (Sep 18, 2006)

keza said:


> Pity they don't make a washer with small spikes on one side, so it would dig into the plastic as you tightened it and couldn't twist.


Something like this might work. Provided there's access. In this case there seems not.


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## mackyak (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks for all of the great ideas. I never would have come up with them myself. And thanks for the offer to fix it for me Dodge but I really want to strengthen it somehow if I can.

I like the idea of making a plate or perhaps 2 U-shaped backing plates that I can feed through the hole and glue into place. I was thinking that I could even carve a hexagol recess in a plate made from a cutting board and glue the nuts in so I could tighten the bolts up from the top. Might be a bit finicky to cut out the recesses but will give it a go and post some photos if successful.

Otherwise I like the idea of gluing a large washer underneath and using the split tail rivets. Where can you buy them from... Bunnings?

If it works well, i'll do the other 3 for sure.

Don't know what it was that hit the poor trevor - when I pulled it back up it looked pretty freaked out and the hook was half ripped out of it's shoulder. No teeth marks though.... :?


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## Junglefisher (Jun 2, 2008)

I reckon the screw was already stripped, the strike bent the rod holder, thus breaking it on a point already weakened.
Easiest fix would be some HDPE or similar (cutting board) cut to the same size and shape as re recess on your yak for the rod holder (with the hole for the flush mount). Some araldite and screws to hold it in place then screw the rod holder through the board and yak together. Rod holder would not be recessed any more though. 
SS is just going to add weight for no reason.


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## bildad (Jun 20, 2011)

Mate speed nuts work a treat in these situations.

http://jnsaustralia.com.au/speed_nuts_u_j.html

Your local bolt shop should have a selection of them


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