# Stealth extra rod holders leashes?



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

Hi chaps and chappettes
for those who had moded their glass to take the extra rod holders behing the day hatch.....what do you use to leash your spare rods to and with?

Do you install more leash hooks or something else or nothing?


----------



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

Oh god salti bugger me mate your hard to follow sometimes...hahahahah what?


----------



## dru (Dec 13, 2008)

Stealthfisha said:


> Oh god salti bugger me mate your hard to follow sometimes...hahahahah what?


Try kayakone aka K1.


----------



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

Ohhhhhhhhhh!


----------



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

Done
asking now

Kaywun!!!!!!
OI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Guest (Dec 9, 2013)

Just hook to the 2 main ones. If there to big then just hook on to the other clips


----------



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks guys...thought kaywun would have materialised by now


----------



## kayakone (Dec 7, 2010)

Someone call kayakone?

*A leash must not fail.* It's sole purpose is to retain the rod and reel, no matter what. It must take the load of a rod out of it's holder and being dragged through the water (even surf).... so we're talking high loadings.
The primary rod holders leashes must take even high loadings - out of holder, locked drag and big fish still on, possibly with you attached as well:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56086

The five links in the chain are:

1. *The attachment to the rod * - I use 80 lb mono jammed under the reel seat, tied with a double fisherman's knot to make the loop. There are other failsafe methods, and there are methods that will not pass the acid test.

2. *The carabiner or snap link.* - I use a 50 mm stainless steel one. Some of the commercial plastic ones break.

3. *The leash itself.* - I use 4 mm bungy, which _I_ cannot break, the only disadvantage being that it needs a bit of homework with the length (about 160 cm is necessary). You get used to that. Spiral is tidier, as in the commercial leashes, but some commercial leashes fail under high loads. Test yours _only_ with full eye, face and body protection.

4. * The connection to the yak, the saddle.* - I use strong UV stabilised plastic or stainless steel 'D' saddles. These must be bolted or riveted on in a strong location on the yak. I use 4 mm SS bolts and load spreading SS washers and nyloc nuts = failsafe. On the Evo 495 a good place to fit these saddles is on the live well, behind and to the side of the hatch. They are out of the way there.

5. *The knot.* - I use a bowline with a locking hitch. It will never come undone accidentally, takes large loads without weakening the bungy/cord, and yet even after a large loading is the only knot that can be easily untied.


----------



## Stealthfisha (Jul 21, 2009)

cheers trev!!!!


----------



## dru (Dec 13, 2008)

Hail K1!


----------

